Amsoil is not API certified, refuses to meet API standards and testing.
Phosphorus levels are 5-25% higher than API standards.
Phosphorus is a main anti wear additive for all oil mfgs, but at the increased levels that Amsoil uses it increases the acid level in the oiling system and causes exhaust degradation to the catalyst system. Don't get me started on the cost to replace these components these days.
High performance engines that get rebuilt after every 1-4 passes for a quarter mile run are one thing. There is not a single NASCAR, Indy, or any other longevity required engine that uses Amsoil. Never seen a Amsoil sticker sponsoring on any of these.
Amsoil is not API certified, refuses to meet API standards and testing.
Phosphorus levels are 5-25% higher than API standards.
Phosphorus is a main anti wear additive for all oil mfgs, but at the increased levels that Amsoil uses it increases the acid level in the oiling system and causes exhaust degradation to the catalyst system. Don't get me started on the cost to replace these components these days.
High performance engines that get rebuilt after every 1-4 passes for a quarter mile run are one thing. There is not a single NASCAR, Indy, or any other longevity required engine that uses Amsoil. Never seen a Amsoil sticker sponsoring on any of these.
Funny you post this today, because just a couple months ago I changed over to AMSOIL in my 62. Using Severe Gear 75W-90 in my diffs, H55F and tcase; Premium 10W-40 in my engine, their ATF in my power steering and when I do my cooling system will switch to their coolant. Since switching, my average MPG is just shy of a mile better (hey I'll take what I can get), and it rides FAR smoother on the roads here. My GF actually asked me if I had done something to the suspension because there's FAR less vibration at highway speeds. The notchiness going into 3rd gear from 2nd (worn synchro ring) in my tranny is far less than what it was even with Royal Purple and Redline. Not gone completely, but definitely improved.
Cruiser aside, I also started using their 2-stroke oil (mixed it at about 90:1) in my old Homelite chainsaw, Husqvarna leaf blower and old Ryobi weed eater and all three run very noticeably better and much stronger with far more stable idle than before (using 91 octane ethanol free gas before and after switching to AMSOIL).
Yeah, I'm sold on AMSOIL. If they made blinker fluid I'd buy that sh*t too.
Increased acidity levels cause damage to all internals, but eat at catalyst media more. The longer an elevated acidic oil/solution is present the more degradation it causes. If you have a 60 it should have a catalyst system per federal regs. But that's for another discussion.
I've never tan 20/50 in a 2F or similar, especially in a cold weather climate.
But the most comprehensive " high content" zinc oils the early motors need..
but did you do the dip method or take a shot
seriously though...
the signature series IS really good stuff, the rest is just ok
and there is better than severe gear for sure
but did you do the dip method or take a shot
seriously though...
the signature series IS really good stuff, the rest is just ok
and there is better than severe gear for sure
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