Similar reason here... i run M1 EP on both our cars. Its easy to change oil once a year on two cars.
Motor Oil? (275,000 miles)
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Similar reason here... i run M1 EP on both our cars. Its easy to change oil once a year on two cars.
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Solid point. I just ran cheaper oil because I was cheap. Now I don't have to be as cheap, and I realize how much I want to keep my LC so I thought I would take better care of it.
That being said, I do love that idea of only changing my oil once a year. That is awesome.
So, in summation, we can all agree that you should use oil in the 2UZFE engine?...I knew I was doing something wrong...
re_guderian
SILVER Star
You should have told your fan clutch!!
My 2000 has 312k miles on it, and this is what I do also
Same here. In fact, I only buy it in 5 quart jugs then measure out the balance. Significantly cheaper per quart that way........
and it should be changed at least once per timing belt.
You should have told your fan clutch!!
I actually haven't done an oil change in either truck yet... But I went to the parts store and looked at oils. Thanks internets...
I'm loving mud!
Chevron Supreme 5W-30 is a fantastic oil. It is actually a syn blend even though they keep market it as a conventional. Great add pack. Additives is where manufacturers cut corners while the public keeps arguing about the oil base. A customer of mine is a BP-Castrol area director and tells me stories about field tests on industrial equipment (and this is where the money is) and how quite a few well-known boutique lube and oil marketing teams pack their bags and leave with their tails down,. He holds Chevron in high regard.
If you want to spend a coin on an outstanding exotic oil, you could look at LE (Lubrication Engineers) - state of the art products when you need to take care of multi-million dollar equipment
If you want to spend a coin on an outstanding exotic oil, you could look at LE (Lubrication Engineers) - state of the art products when you need to take care of multi-million dollar equipment
Shell Rotella 5W-40 T6 full synthetic, $20/gal, I add two gallons and call it good.
I use Purolator and WIX oil filters, change it every 5,000 miles.
Changing your oil is about more than just the engine, it is also about inspecting and lubing the rest of the truck too.
Sure your oil and filter can go 12k but can your u-joints?
I use Purolator and WIX oil filters, change it every 5,000 miles.
Changing your oil is about more than just the engine, it is also about inspecting and lubing the rest of the truck too.
Sure your oil and filter can go 12k but can your u-joints?
2001LC
SILVER Star
My two cents:
Anyone that has torn down an engine run on Conventional oil, knows it breaks down leaving a thick black carbon film (gunk) on internal engine parts. This carbon will clog PCV, oil filter and oil galley's and coat everything over time. Clogged PCV will increase internal pressure yielding a leaky engine. Conventional oil's also quickly loose their lubricating ability as they break down. The coating of internal parts will also reduce cooling efficiency, resulting heat will accelerates this "breaking down" of the oil. These are some of the reasons why Conventional (even blends) need changing every >3K miles IMHO. Additional the gunk builds on and damages seals.
Synthetic oils solve all these issues, and will actually clean out the gunk leftover from conventional oils. This includes cleaning off seals, which then "may" leak, not something we see much of with Toyota's. If any leaks develop, adding High Millage M1 or a seal modifier will usually take care of them.
How long to go between changes also has to do with time and operating condition. Where as EP M1 with M1 syn filter is guaranteed for 15K miles, I'm not comfortable going that long in city stop and go traffic or with frequent cold starts. It would take me one or two years to go 15K, which one years is about the max I like going between change. Whereas on long HWY runs, racking up the miles, I'm quit comfortable extending the miles between changes.
I also like using M1 synthetic ATF. Many say never flush (full 12qt), especially a high millage transmission. The concern is it will clean seals leading to leaks, and even more of a concern is the transmission fiction plates. Many transmission shops say the plates are being held together by gunk, clean and they'll fall apart. Where this may be true on a Honda, I've not had any issue with our rigs. But regardless I figure if the transmission is that fragile, I may as well find out now.
Note: Re-torqueing of valve cover bolts is necessary no matter which oil has been used. This will stop most valve cover and spark plug tube seal oil leaks.
Anyone that has torn down an engine run on Conventional oil, knows it breaks down leaving a thick black carbon film (gunk) on internal engine parts. This carbon will clog PCV, oil filter and oil galley's and coat everything over time. Clogged PCV will increase internal pressure yielding a leaky engine. Conventional oil's also quickly loose their lubricating ability as they break down. The coating of internal parts will also reduce cooling efficiency, resulting heat will accelerates this "breaking down" of the oil. These are some of the reasons why Conventional (even blends) need changing every >3K miles IMHO. Additional the gunk builds on and damages seals.
Synthetic oils solve all these issues, and will actually clean out the gunk leftover from conventional oils. This includes cleaning off seals, which then "may" leak, not something we see much of with Toyota's. If any leaks develop, adding High Millage M1 or a seal modifier will usually take care of them.
How long to go between changes also has to do with time and operating condition. Where as EP M1 with M1 syn filter is guaranteed for 15K miles, I'm not comfortable going that long in city stop and go traffic or with frequent cold starts. It would take me one or two years to go 15K, which one years is about the max I like going between change. Whereas on long HWY runs, racking up the miles, I'm quit comfortable extending the miles between changes.
I also like using M1 synthetic ATF. Many say never flush (full 12qt), especially a high millage transmission. The concern is it will clean seals leading to leaks, and even more of a concern is the transmission fiction plates. Many transmission shops say the plates are being held together by gunk, clean and they'll fall apart. Where this may be true on a Honda, I've not had any issue with our rigs. But regardless I figure if the transmission is that fragile, I may as well find out now.
Note: Re-torqueing of valve cover bolts is necessary no matter which oil has been used. This will stop most valve cover and spark plug tube seal oil leaks.
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2001LC
SILVER Star
7qt (7.2 w/filter, 6.8 w/out)
No, it takes just under 8qts, my owners manual says 7.6 with filter, since my truck uses zero oil between PM's and I'm not going to leave half a qt of motor oil sitting in my garage going bad (yes motor oil has a shelf life, the additives break down over time, sitting in direct sunlight speeds up this process, condensation will collect inside the container...storing motor oil is not a good idea once you open the bottle)
My truck loves the T6, I used it in my Land Rover Discovery for the 100,000 miles that I owned her and when I replaced the valley pan gasket there was zero sludge inside the engine.
She took 7qts but used 1qt a week no matter how far I drove, so I just added a qt once a week and the Rotella is easy to find no matter where you are. So long trips if I needed oil I could buy it at any auto parts store, WalMart, truck stops...anywhere.
And in my humble opinion being able to buy the oil easily and a price you're comfortable with paying is part of the decision making process.
I'm going to add something for all of you extended life motor oil changing it once every New Years people out there...
I had a brand new '06 Mercedes Sprinter with the TD5, it had the oil change monitor which said to PM every 15,000 miles.
I drove it 60k/yr and PM'd it every 10k at the dealer, they used Mobil 1 0W-40 diesel oil, which was the recommended oil.
At 165k the engine blew up. Lost oil pressure.
$12,000 later rebuilt engine was installed, started changing the oil every 5,000 miles using standard 15W-40 diesel oil.
200,000 miles on the rebuilt engine with zero problems, the van was then scrapped and is now in someones cubbard full of soup.
I had a brand new '06 Mercedes Sprinter with the TD5, it had the oil change monitor which said to PM every 15,000 miles.
I drove it 60k/yr and PM'd it every 10k at the dealer, they used Mobil 1 0W-40 diesel oil, which was the recommended oil.
At 165k the engine blew up. Lost oil pressure.
$12,000 later rebuilt engine was installed, started changing the oil every 5,000 miles using standard 15W-40 diesel oil.
200,000 miles on the rebuilt engine with zero problems, the van was then scrapped and is now in someones cubbard full of soup.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Yep...
but a good reminder about total maintenance.
My $0.02 = I work for Chevron, and do like our lubricant products however in both my 100 series and BMW 3 series, I use Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic, and Mobil 1 filter in the 100. I change them both at 5k miles, yes some say it's a waste doing it earlier than necessary (10k I've been told is recommended) but good piece of mind for a fairly small investment. Once in a blue moon, my local Costco (Hawthorne, CA) has Mobil 1, and when I find it I stock up. A buddy of mine said to buy it online (Amazon) for reasonable prices as from time to time I buy at Pep Boys, which is a total rip.
Running 7000-7500 mile a year I've determined using M1 5w30 EP and changing once a year is best for my engine and best bang for the buck. I make sure everything else is done by the book. I like my driveline greased and retorqued every 5000 miles. Tire's rotated/balanced every 5000 miles you get the picture.
I use Mobil 1 5w-20 in my wifes van, 5,000 mile PM's. Costco sell's Mobil 1 for $25/case twice a year. Her van takes 6qts.
She drives less than 10k/yr.
She drives less than 10k/yr.
I thought it was something like 8.25 qts of oil. I've only had mine long enough to change it once.
