I was expecting it to sound like an '89 Corsica 2.8L that ran out of oil and had rod knock so bad you could hear it all the way Down the block. I have a salamander propane heater ill send you if you need it, just bring it down next time you're coming this way (I know the OP in case anyone wondered).
motor may be toast
- Thread starter tshandonay
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Not pleasant reading but this thread may be relevant:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/325238-no-oil-pressure-fml.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/325238-no-oil-pressure-fml.html
Unfortunately, that sounds plausible. Tim, what do you think?
- Thread starter
- #24
Plausible....but it doesn't quite add up in my situation.
When I pulled it in the garage last night....it still was showing some oil pressure on the dash gauge. I would have zero pressure with that failure right?
Will be getting a mechanical oil pressure gauge and compression tester tomorrow from my neighbor. Learning opportunity if nothing else.
Time for an engine swap? How hard can it be?
When I pulled it in the garage last night....it still was showing some oil pressure on the dash gauge. I would have zero pressure with that failure right?
Will be getting a mechanical oil pressure gauge and compression tester tomorrow from my neighbor. Learning opportunity if nothing else.
Time for an engine swap? How hard can it be?
I misread, thought it had no pressure at all. If there is some pressure, maybe there is hope.
I am 100% sure you are capable of swapping motors, as long as you have the time.
With heat in the garage, it might be a good winter project, albeit unexpected.
That way you can drive the iX in the snow
RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
I have a 1997 1fz that needs ps pump leak fixed. Comes with auto trans 200k on it runs great. 600 for both 
pm me if interested
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
pm me if interestedSent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
I have a 1997 1fz that needs ps pump leak fixed. Comes with auto trans 200k on it runs great. 600 for both
"See the vultures coming in again..."
Check for a cracked flex plate......
Didn't sound like an unreasonable offer to me?
If I were looking for a used 1fz I'd probably pm him and sell the tranny to cover shipping, and some of the cost.
Actually the opposite, somebody will snatch this engine and trans combo up at that price in a big hurry if the OP doesn't act fast.
At least that's how I read it \o/
Hmm. I read it the truck may/May not be dead, but people are already trying to benefit from its demise.
That's the problem with reading a conversation the reader supplies emotion, and fills in the blanks accordingly.
That price looks very generous though to me! I would find it helpful if I were in need.
- Thread starter
- #32
Spent some time in the garage tonight despite the temps....heater got it up to maybe 25. I'm a little more encouraged by what I have found so far.
Checked compression on the front three cylinders...all were near 160 which seems decent on a very cold motor. Pulled the oil pressure sender and found the mechanical gauge I borrowed does not have the correct thread. So instead pulled the oil filter off and cranked the motor....oil spewed out in both places so I'm guessing my dash gauge was wrong. Big coincidence though. Oh and I noticed the oil pressure rising when cranking before i pulled the sender.
Also something to note if it means anything, the motor sounds fine cranking over. As I originally suspected the noise seems to be from the top end. What kind of failure could lead to lack of oil? Again, I noticed no loss of power, no smoke, no overheating, no CEL....but it sounded like hell at idle and under load. A visual of the drained oil shows no coolant mixed in and does not look metallic at all.
I'm certainly no expert and I appreciate all that I have learned from all of you over the past couple years. Any input on my situation? Time to pull the valve cover?
Checked compression on the front three cylinders...all were near 160 which seems decent on a very cold motor. Pulled the oil pressure sender and found the mechanical gauge I borrowed does not have the correct thread. So instead pulled the oil filter off and cranked the motor....oil spewed out in both places so I'm guessing my dash gauge was wrong. Big coincidence though. Oh and I noticed the oil pressure rising when cranking before i pulled the sender.
Also something to note if it means anything, the motor sounds fine cranking over. As I originally suspected the noise seems to be from the top end. What kind of failure could lead to lack of oil? Again, I noticed no loss of power, no smoke, no overheating, no CEL....but it sounded like hell at idle and under load. A visual of the drained oil shows no coolant mixed in and does not look metallic at all.
I'm certainly no expert and I appreciate all that I have learned from all of you over the past couple years. Any input on my situation? Time to pull the valve cover?
On other engines a person can pull the oil fill cap and look inside to see if the cam is getting oil. I don't think this is possible in your case. I haven't pulled a valve cover on this engine but if you could do that and then start the engine to see if oil is being delivered to the upper end it would be useful.
I just finished up rebuilding my 1FZ-FE, I would recommend taking the time to rebuild it. Punch it out to a 4.6L and call it good, you'll get another 250K out of the motor and be happy. I am/was only a 2 banana monkey wrencher before this project. I think with TONS of pics and talking things over with incredibly knowledgeable parts guys like Onur (Beno) you can work your way through taking the engine down.
PM if you have any questions, my rebuild started with a "knock on cylinder 1" and was a bad main bearing.
PM if you have any questions, my rebuild started with a "knock on cylinder 1" and was a bad main bearing.
There's an orfice on the circuit heading up to the top, could that be plugged? Anyone know where the oil pressure sender is in the diagram? If it's on the upper end circuit and the orfice is plugged it might account for a lower reading even if the bottom end is getting adequate oil. Also, if the chain tensioner is not getting adequate oil supply (it's on the same circuit) that would probably produce noise also.
Here's a thought: If the oil pressure gauge is on the upper end circuit, put a manual gauge there and test it. Then fabricate something which permits pressure testing at the filter and compare the readings. This might tell if that orfice is plugged.
- Thread starter
- #40
Is it possible to put my eyes on the chain tensioner by pulling the valve cover or does the whole timing cover have to come off?
Please excuse my ignorance.
Please excuse my ignorance.
