motor may be toast

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Looks like mine did when I put in new plug seals. I pulled pieces out with tweezers for 30 minutes because mine were so hard they shattered. Hope you get everything working right and can enjoy the cruiser again.
 
I can't see anything awry in those photos. I thought I could see the chain tensioner extended. I don't know if it's supposed to be extended with no oil pressure. How possible is it to run the engine with the valve cover off for a few minutes? That would confirm oil delivery to the upper end and give you a chance to observe the timing chain and listen more closely for the sound. Would probably be messy though.
 
Rock the crank back and forth and watch the timing chain.
 
I thought the tensioner appeared extended as well, but I don't know how it's supposed to look.

Assuming I should be seeing no play in the chain when rotating the crank?
 
I'm not sure how that tensioner works and what produces the tension when there's no oil pressure. I also don't know how they fail. The reason I suggested running it is related to my thought earlier that since it's pressure is produced by the oil pump, some kind of leak/failure in it might reduce oil flow further down the line, which I think would mean the camshafts. That might account for your sound.

I wonder if anyone here has experience with the tensioners and could chime in.
 
I think I ran across that video last week. From what I've read, the timing chain guide issues were on earlier models on the 1fz....mine is a 96 and is supposed to have better designed part.

Neighbor has a scope I can use apparently. going to see if I can get a look down the guides before I tear it apart any more.

Sure wish I knew better how that tensioner works.
 
I think I ran across that video last week. From what I've read, the timing chain guide issues were on earlier models on the 1fz....mine is a 96 and is supposed to have better designed part.

Neighbor has a scope I can use apparently. going to see if I can get a look down the guides before I tear it apart any more.

Sure wish I knew better how that tensioner works.

We should all have a neighbor like that with all the cool tools....unless we already are that neighbor. I aspire...
 
Spent some time reading the FSM tonight...seems that the timing tensioner can simply be removed with two bolts and pulled out for inspection. Didn't realize it was that simple. My ignorance apparent here. I truly am way over my head here. This was the area that the noise was most prevalent using the stethoscope.

Scope from the neighbor was not real helpful...could only slide it down in the middle of the timing chain for visual inspection. Was not able to see any damage below. However, if I remove the tensioner, I think this will allow considerably more room.

Slow but steady progress....no time in the garage tonight but shooting for an hour tomorrow evening. Have parts coming for the other project.

Tim
 
Well, jumped in with both feet tonight. Valve cover came off...not too terrible. Gotta say....I'm probably getting over my head here. Visually everything looks ok....aside from some carbon. Not bad I would say for 215k.

Any hints on visual things I can look for?

Here are some photos...and yes I realize there are pieces of the plug tube seals there.

One thing I was told to do that you could check is pull each cap on the cam shaft, it's the 2 bolts you can see on each cam section check them all to see if the bearings are scored
 
Mine also quiets down some once it's been running for awhile and even goes away at times during idle when truck is in park, you can always hear it but does get quieter
 
I don't get it. What's the point of removing the oil pans? Do you have a clear idea of what the problem is yet? Have you run it with the valve cover off to observe what's happening and get a opportunity to narrow down the location of the bad sound?
 
I have run with valve cover off....no apparent issues. Oil is flowing. Using the stethoscope the noise is isolated to the front timing area or lower. Its difficult to pinpoint exactly where. Pulled the tensioner, it moves smoothly, as far as I can tell see with just the timing cover off the timing slipper guides aren't broken or worn on the top side. Have ruled out belts, pulley's, etc.

I'm open to ideas on what I can do further isolate prior to pulling it apart and being able to actually see things.
 
At this point I don't know what you'd be looking for so that's why I'm skeptical as to the utility of pulling the oil pans. Anyone else have any ideas about the next step?
 
The problem is in there somewhere....and the oil pans have to come off in order to remove the timing cover.

Believe me...I'd rather not. I'm half temped to put it back together and drive it to a slow death.
 

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