Morph: a 1HZ/H55F into a BJ40, Expedition Truck - Alaska bound (1 Viewer)

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It's not as bad as it looks

Man, I don't think I would be using that chain lift off that roof joist, the joist is secured by a downward timber which held in place by a truss metal bracket!

Yeah, I know it's not the greatest. It looks better in real life as I the hoist is connected to a 10,000lbs axle strap, which is wrapped around both the centre joist and two 1.5" square extruded aluminum bars that span 3 joists and rest above the diagonal in the joist and thus "pushes" the load somewhat into the vertical 2x4. So the load is supported by more than the one picture would lead one to believe. Also, the truss is bracketed both sides and I'd put more faith in those than perhaps some other method of joining.

I ummed and aahed quite a bit when I needed to use it for one particular job and could probably have strengthened the set-up but felt it sufficed for what I needed, and believe me, I was watching VERY closely when I used it the first time. I use my 2 ton folding engine hoist for heavy duty, lowish height work but believe it or not, I have hoisted my 1HZ out of its metal crate and put a 3B in its place and lifted the engine and crate simultaneously. It's good for about 800 lbs I'd say...:D

Thanks for the concern, it is warranted but for <1000 lbs work where I'm not jumping up and down on it, I should be OK. I wouldn't attempt an engine + tranny + transfer lift. That might be asking a bit much of the set-up and I'd really then have to agree with you.

So, you get first dibs on "I told you so" when I complain I dropped something.:rolleyes:

Better look at axle strap wrapped around bars resting on 3 joists.
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What the chain hoist typically gets used for. In this case to support the transfer & tranny when separating from the 3B that was in the truck. The engine itself is supported by the engine hoist and not the chain hoist in question.
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What I really want in the garage is a kick-ass I-beam and trolley set-up. Alas time, space and money have been constraints to date.


Regards,

Jim

P.S. The dodgy set-up is now drywalled so I don't have to look at the potential disaster now.:) Actually, I could go in at a later date and strengthen the joists, if I so desired, as I have left access.
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P.S. The dodgy set-up is now drywalled so I don't have to look at the potential disaster now.:) Actually, I could go in at a later date and strengthen the joists, if I so desired, as I have left access.

Drywall tape is very strong. You'll be fine. Keep your cell phone close, just in case.
 
Safety perceptions or perhaps delusions...

Drywall tape is very strong. You'll be fine. Keep your cell phone close, just in case.

Yup, I feel a whole lot more secure now that it's drywalled. The drywall and tape will add significantly to my perceptions that it is a safe set-up...

:D

Anyway, I'm now on to the paint booth set-up... Then on to real truck building.
 
Let's hope I don't really need to cut and turn the front as well (shouldn't have to given the SUA and mild spring lift intent).

I can not imagine why you would need a C&T. I have SOA'd BJ40s and '42 as well as LOTS of FJ40s with no C&T... and with a high pinion front axle?
I can't see any reason you would have driveline problems.

Now... Stop molesting the Yaks and get to wrenching!


Mark...
 
Now... Stop molesting the Yaks and get to wrenching!

Yessir, at the double, this weekend for sure :bang:...Oh, and thanks for the tech advice.

Cheers,
Jim
 
I do always shift the front axle forward when I do an SOA. but if you are staying SUA, then even if you do not shift it... no problems should be encountered with driveline angles :)

Longer wheelbase works well with SUA also... Just FWIW.


Mark...
 
Princess Auto hoists

How do you like your Princess Auto hoist? Would you recommend it?

Er, which one?..They're all from Princess Auto.

The electric hoist is only there because I won it at a club raffle. It has a single line pull of 330 lbs and double line, double that. I personally wouldn't use it on anything expensive and I have it more as a utility hoist and have barely used it.

The 1 Ton chain hoist is as good as any other chain hoist. I doubt there is anything one could screw up building it and I have used it to hoist my expensive 1HZ that I couldn't afford to drop and I trust it.

The folding 2 Ton engine hoist is very good value for money and folds up to take almost no (floor) space in the garage and I can recommend this unit. It is well built and easy enough to take apart (folding legs) and transport single-handedly and has seen a bit of club use. No complaints.

Hope that helps.

Jim BTW
 
One Yak shaved, one to go

So, three days shy of a month of Sundays (well actually, Saturdays, Sundays and any weekday evening time I could find except a couple of low motivation sick days), the framing, drywall, taping, mudding and primering are complete.

The cubby holes for the bikes to get them the hell out of the way of my precious floor space.
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The finished product
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So, you may ask why put so much time into doing drywall etc. I have an attached garage. When I fibreglassed the 40's floors originally, the house stank of Styrene for 2 1/2 days afterwards. I want to be able to paint the truck at home to save money and that requires a paint cell that can be deployed in a short period of time that also keeps paint out of the house. My wife will appreciate that greatly :princess:. I also wanted to be able to poaint in winter and that required keeping the heat in so hence the effort. I bothered to tape and paint because I am annoyed with myself for not having done so when I had a lot less clutter in the garage. I was just sick and tired of electricals, insulation and drywall at that point. Now I have clutter and won't get to do the walls justice until the day I move out. Hence the motivation to do the ceiling job right now.

Anyway...TBC
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Now that you have bunkered down for the winter and your garage is all cosy you can get back to finishing off that rig!

Yup. Working on it :). Will finish paint cell first so that when I come back from sandblasting, the future good work doesn't start to rust away. Fortuinately here in Alberta, especially in winter, the air is brutally dry.

Jim
 
Yup. Working on it :). Will finish paint cell first so that when I come back from sandblasting, the future good work doesn't start to rust away. Fortuinately here in Alberta, especially in winter, the air is brutally dry.

Jim

Hi Sabretooth,

Just wondering whats weather like there in early April? the family is looking to travel to Canada next year and thought we might pop over!
 
Canada weather

Hi Sabretooth,

Just wondering whats weather like there in early April? the family is looking to travel to Canada next year and thought we might pop over!

It somewhat depends on where you are going. By April, the West Coast (Vancouver & Vancouver Island) is in full on spring (including warm sunshine to miserable rain. Depends on your luck). Here in the Foothills and Prairies you can get pretty much anything but it is generally considered to still be cold and snow is a real possibility. Our "spring" is typically end of May. The grass doesn't start to go green until the middle of April and takes usually to mid May to go fully green.

If I had to tout Alberta, we get an awful lot of sunshine, some 330 + days a year and some 2000+ hours. It can be cold, Calgary gets "Chinook" (Native for "Snow Eater") winds that can turn a -10oC day to a +10oC day in a matter of hours. It is typically significantly warmer in April than say January and February where it can get damned nasty and an average of -20oC for weeks isn't unheard of. I believe the temperature range for Calgary in April is -4oC to +11oC or so. April is too early for it to generally rain, we're more likely to see snow.

There are plenty of good websites to do research on. Canada is a BIG country (2nd largest in the World) and weather changes from place to place. I wouldn't consider April a summer vacation by any stretch, you'd have to come July to September for that but the country is perhaps at its best towards the end of winter and beginning of spring.

One man's opinion. I can only suggest that you do your homework. Depends on what you are looking for. If you plan on being in Calgary or area, drop me a PM.

Cheers,

Jim
 
:popcorn:

How wide is your roller and is it a slip roll? (comes apart at one end) Is it powered or manual? Very handy tool if somewhat rare in a home garage. We've got a very nice 3' manual slip and a 50" powered slip here at the shop. Let me know if you need any quick (or not so) bends - I'm sure I'll have what you need. If you weren't aware I also have access to a full CNC sheet metal shop with everything from a 2' hand brake to 10' 100 ton press brake or 22 ton turret punch, welding (TIG,MIG) etc. etc. Don't go buying any raw sheet metal, I've got heaps of offcuts for a local club member.

I now have to convert this...
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Tools

:popcorn:

How wide is your roller and is it a slip roll? (comes apart at one end) Is it powered or manual? Very handy tool if somewhat rare in a home garage. We've got a very nice 3' manual slip and a 50" powered slip here at the shop. Let me know if you need any quick (or not so) bends - I'm sure I'll have what you need. If you weren't aware I also have access to a full CNC sheet metal shop with everything from a 2' hand brake to 10' 100 ton press brake or 22 ton turret punch, welding (TIG,MIG) etc. etc. Don't go buying any raw sheet metal, I've got heaps of offcuts for a local club member.

Hi Kevin,

It's a 4 foot hand driven slip roll I just had to have. I was going to use it to make body panels (the rear quarters). It was an eBay rash decision and was in Brooklyn New York. Cost USD 300 to buy and CAD 700 to ship! I am a big fan of old fashioned, well built machinery and this is an old Pexto (or earlier incarnation of same company, I forget the abbreviation letters) machine. Needs a little TLC and a mobile stand at some point but is usable.

Thanks for the offer of assistance should I need it. Likewise, if you need anything machined, I have a 7" swing Myford lathe at home and a new to me Rusnok mill that I'll be commissioning in the next few weeks (need an X-Y table, collets and then deep pockets for the tools). I discovered that owing machine tools is a quick way to spend lots of money. I bought the lathe (incomplete) for CAD 500 locally (same guy as Rusnok this week) and then proceeded to buy parts to complete it, accessories and tooling. I won't say how much I spent but needless to say it was many factors above what I forked out originally. I just had to have it :D AT work, I have access to a large lathe, Bridgeport mill, 4 ft finger brake and 4 ft shear as well as lots of welding machine types (except I cannot do thermite welding :eek:...pity).

The next must-have-tool is either a dividing head for gear cutting on the lathe or an English Wheel (my "secret" interest). I might build a larger English Wheel but start out with a Justin Baker benchtop for learning.

Hope to see you truck sometime soon. If you need a physical hand doiing something, I'm always available to lend a hand. Just ask my RMLCA colleagues how quickly I sign up to assit anyone except myself...

Cheers,
Jim
 
They sure don't make machinery like they used to. I love the old heavy iron. My employer also has a full CNC machine shop in the building behind ours as well as a full service specialty welding shop next door (Aerotech Machine and Aerotech Specialty Welding) I am the shop forman for the sheet metal shop (not air handling - just everything else sheet metal is used for)

I am in the deep south west - Bridlewood - don't hesitate to ask for a hand

Kevin4
 

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