More SOA Q's before I start my build over christmas break

[Randy88FJ62]

This would not become a problem if a standard MIG welder was used? As for the explanation of cracking; I'm guessing that the weld creates a difference in the grain and that area becomes an area that stress concentration could eventually fatigue or break.

I saw a cracked FJ55 axle from the drivers knucke to the drivers spring perch. This happened at SnT because he got well over 5 feet of air. As long as I don't jump it like that I think the welds will be fine.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I'd say that using the gussets are a good idea as another form of protection. It's not very expensive and it seems like it only takes another couple of minutes to put on. You'd probably spend that much time fabbing up shock mounts anyway.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

I'd say that using the gussets are a good idea as another form of protection. It's not very expensive and it seems like it only takes another couple of minutes to put on. You'd probably spend that much time fabbing up shock mounts anyway.

Agreed. I am wondering how people like those shock mounts. Not sure how many people have used them.

 

[zuluzeugma]

i believe he is referring to the application of heat over a large area for a extended period of time. Say for instance with a torch. Heat is allowed to "soak" the material in question, releaving any internal stresses that would have previously added strength to it, as he said changing the grain structure. The tip commonly used with a acetylene torch is referred to as a rose bud tip, i believe this is what he is talking about. Maybe all those Mech Eng. classes did some good other than increasing my debt to income ratio.

CORRECT CORRECT CORRECT!!!

During the C&T, you MUST heat the outter tube to rotate the inner tube. I've heard of guys doing it without the heat, but they must be stronger than me. In the 3 C&T's I've done, I used a 6 foot cheater bar and we still needed heat. All that heat is what distorts the grain stucture of the metal weakening it. Also, just remembered, one of the companies (maybe all-pro) has the gusset kit also but it put the shock in double shear instead of single shear like the picture i posted a few minutes ago. The double shear shock mount is also a good idea if you're trying to do it right from the git go. I've seen shocks in single shear bend bolts pretty badly.

If my memory serves me correctly, Toyota put the inner and outer tubes in a .007 interferance press fit (pretty tight)
Pic of "rose-bud, cheater bar, etc....

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Agreed. I am wondering how people like those shock mounts. Not sure how many people have used them.

Here is a thread about using the ford shock towers, with pics showing how the knuckle gusset would play into the setup. I am having trouble finding pictures of someone using the knuckle ball gusset's shock mount though....

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/173006-ford-shock-tower.html

 

[zuluzeugma]

Trail-gear (I know, I know, Don't shoot me) is the one selling the shock double shear knuckle-ball gusset.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Agreed. I am wondering how people like those shock mounts. Not sure how many people have used them.

I like the Ruffstuff shock mounts on top of the axle. they are beefy and extremely strong. The gussetts are not a bad idea, but are not critical either. I don't run them on my 40 and no bending yet. You can always add them later so don't let that distract you from the big project. I'll get pics in my therad Thursday.

 

[chicago]

No gussets for me either except the stock housing one...
I didnt need to heat the housing end when I did the c and t...maybe I was lucky, but as long as I hit the right depth in the "cut" it turned fairly easily.
I made my own shock tabs out of 1/4 in material, and theyve held up great...FWIW. I did howver need to run TWO, one on each side of the eyelet with a through bolt. I tried the FJ40 set up with, but it bent.
As for the traction bar, I got my brakcets from Ruffstuff and built my own ladder bar. The hardest part of that is finding the BEST location to run the x member for it. In the 62's it was quite a challenge cuz of the exhaust set up.

 

[Trapper50cal]

GL

Good Luck Randy!
I hope all goes smoothly, I recall how you labored on the decision to do an SOA.
Make sure to post pix of it all tweaked out.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Good Luck Randy!
I hope all goes smoothly, I recall how you labored on the decision to do an SOA.
Make sure to post pix of it all tweaked out.

I haven't even ordered the small parts yet! I pick up the axles and goodies this weekend. then i will post pics and get a semi-final parts list to order all the extras.

The most important time for people on here to help me out will be saturday evening afetr I post pics. Then the real nitty gritty parts will be tallied and ordered.

I am excited to take it to the next stage and I hope it all goes well.

 

[chicago]

Youre gonna LOVE IT!

Chicago

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Here are a few pictures of what I bought. I initially went after just the axles because of the rear disk conversion and installed arbs but my addiction got the best of me and I bought the whole rig for cheap because it has a ’89 3FE drivetrain in it which means I now have a whole extra drivetrain to either rebuild or store for insurance in case I blow anything I am currently running.

On with the Pics!

Here’s what I bought to part into my rig.

ARB compressor (includes wiring harness, switches, and everything.)

This is a shoddy welded steering arm which will not be reused. What’s its appropriate name and what’s the best replacement?

P.O. put on two shoddy traction arms, one busted off and here’s the other one. Again, this will not be reused. A proper Ruff Stuff kit will be used.

FJ40 tub body damage. Anyone want a tub cheap?

Dash Stickers.

FJ40 Dash with FJ62 gauges.

Trailer hitch receiver tube front driveshaft. Probably will keep this as a trail spare. I like to use my 4wd at high speeds and this just won’t do. I could be convinced to sell cheap if someone really wants it.

Rear GM disc brake conversion. TSM I believe is what it is called?

This is the rear driveshaft I will transfer over to my soon to be SOA rig. Can someone confirm it’s a DC shaft? I am unfamiliar with a double U-Joint driveshaft. Not what I consider a conventional CV shaft.

I can take more pictures of requested things.

Your input on my find?

 

[zuluzeugma]

For confirmation:

The axles under this 40 were from a 62 also?

Yes, that is a DC joint

 

[Randy88FJ62]

For confirmation:

The axles under this 40 were from a 62 also?

Yes, that is a DC joint

Yes, the frame, drivetrain, and axles were from an 89 Fj62. An FJ40 tub was then put on top of it.
-Randy

 

[zuluzeugma]

Good deal... Dude, your set man...

Now, you should give me the 3FE. I need it more than you!

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Good deal... Dude, your set man...

Now, you should give me the 3FE. I need it more than you!

Speaking of extra parts. I bought Ducattiman's A440F when he put in an H55. Plus I now have this whole drivetrain. I now have two spare tranys.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

That's a cobbed together mess. Glad you'll give it a better home. That Pittman arm is an accident waiting to happen. If you'll glance at my SOA thread, you'll see a cool Pittman arm solution that maximizes your clearance. You need all new steering linkage, that stuff there is just not usable. I can HIGHLY recommend the tie rod and drag link from 4x4Labs.

What is being used for steering arms? Can you post a pic of the knuckle?

Based on what I'm seeing, the axles look good, the ARBs are a real plus and the rear driveshaft looks custom and expensive. It is double cardan as mentioned. A very good deal at what you paid. Congrats.

When you pull out the diffs, have someone who knows ARBs like Mark, go through them and replace the input o-rings and generally check their function and the pattern on the ring gear. Hopefully these were done professionally and not by the guy who built that rig.

Given the butchery of the previous build, I would consider cutting off the perches and doing your own. Really, that is an unsafe redneck mess and I would make a fresh start.

That e-brake connection looks funky at best.

I would like the fuel tank with pump and sender assuming it's from an FJ62. Is it available?

Thanks.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

I agree with you on the workmanship. It's a clodded mess. Fortunately he had the gears done preofessionally. I forget who but he didn't touch them. When I regear i will have the o-rings replaced. Mark also mentioned that and I agree with you both. New perches will definitely be done. I may even use my stock axle and rebuild the whole front end. We shall see.

My goal is a safe SOA that can get me to the trail and cruise at highway speeds. I will pm you about the tank, it is available.

Mark has dibbs on all 40 stuff if he wants it then it's getting parted. The 62 drivetrain may be parted. depends if it's worth it or not. I might keep it for insurance in storage.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Where is the cheapest place to get an 80's pittman arm? I just went through your thread and post on this Drew and it looks like a good substitute.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Where is the cheapest place to get an 80's pittman arm? I just went through your thread and post on this Drew and it looks like a good substitute.

Probably a junk yard. They are available new as well.

If you want an FJ60 Pittman arm bored for 1 ton GM ends, I'll send it down to you. That at least gets you mobile while you look for an 80 series Pittman, assuming you use the GM 1 ton stuff. If you use 80 series ends, you best bet might be the Pittman arm from Marlin, that has a little less drop than FJ60/62 and comes bored for the 80 tie rod end. I think just the Pittman is about $75 or so.

Got your PM on the fuel tank. great, I want it, not in a hurry. (Looking at 2FE in the FJ60 and that would be the easiest way to get a good fuel pump, and better than a frame rail mounted pump.

Post a pic of the knuckle/steering arm set up. That's kind of critical to your operation here!