Montana FJ60 new guy

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Joined
Aug 14, 2008
Threads
2
Messages
9
Location
Missoula, Montana
hey all. i am Rob, and i live in Missoula, Montana. Missoula [in case you didnt know] is located in western Montana about half way between Glacier park to the north and Yellowstone park to the south, and about 45 minutes from the Idaho border.

I bought this 83 FJ60 last summer for $500. i didnt know much of anything about these vehicles, and really still dont know much, but i thiink i got a pretty good deal. it came with almost new ASRs on the stock chrome wheels and looks like it has a new exhaust. its biggest problems seem to be it is hard to start and the front end makes a high pitched whine when i get up to about 45 MPH. otherwise, it has performed flawlessly. i fixed an issue with the heater not warming up [sticky valve on the firewall], and added some fancy chrome 10" wheels with 31s, and installed a stereo, roof rack, and a new battery. that is about all i have done with it except drive it since last august.

while looking at the haynes manual i bought for it trying to see what i can do about the whine, i came up with a couple questions. how do i tell what type of lube to put in the front axle [regular gear lube or something else] and how do i know if i have to adjust the intake and exhaust valves? other than it having a six, i dont know much about the engine. one guy told me it was simular to the chevy straight six....which doesnt help me much.

i have some mechanical abilities, and a lot of tools, but most of my auto experience has been with OLD american cars like my Skylark, or working on my old bikes. the bikes require valve adjustment every 5000 miles. according to the manual, some of the engines in the FJs also requires the same type of adjustment [with shims and and a feeler guage]. i have no idea [provided this engine needs this done] if or when it has ever been done. so if it needs it, i dont want to drive it anymore till i know. any suggestions? also any thoughts on the front end noise would be appreciated as well.

hopefully i can play catch-up on what ever this vehicle needs before it becomes too late or really expensive. thanks.:confused:
 
Welcome to mud and the addiction

:flipoff2:Wow you live in a beatiful area of this country and have found a wonderful ride. As a newby on the forum check out the Tech Links, and there is a sticky called FAQ near the top of the 60 section. It says check back frequently and has too much good info to go into. Valves do need to be adjusted and the frequency can be found in the FSM that if you don't have should be your first purchase. The whine you will need to describe further and then someone on here will jump in and help figure it out. Welcome to MUD :cheers: Oh yeah:flipoff2:
 
You should look at the Steering Knuckles, the axle seal inside it is a common failure for these rigs. If you see alot of Gunk built up on them, or gear oil leaking onto the inside of your tire, then the axle seal is bad and it need a knuckle rebuild. It's kind of a right of Passage for Landcruiser owners to rebuild the knuckles.

Although mine never whined, and they were in really bad shape.

And the 2F engine does definately need periodic valve adjustements.

:cheers:
 
any suggestions? also any thoughts on the front end noise would be appreciated as well.

Hey Rob, welcome!

I'd say check the diff oil first for proper level. Then lift the tires off the ground and see if there's any unusual play or noises.

My guess the noise is in the brakes or a dry seal from sitting.

Another thing you can do is to drive the truck and apply the brakse while it's whining to see if the noise changes or goes away.

You can also drive the truck for 15 minutes while making the whine, and then do surface tempureture measurements on the areas where the bearings are to see if there's a bearing getting hot. You will need a cheap tool from the parts house to do the measurement, but it's good to start your tool collection early, now that you spent your $500 on the truck!!!

Best regards,

Rick
 
there is definite leakage from the axle on the right side. i was just going to pull the pumpkin cover off and see how bad the inside was. the rig seems to have sat for a LONG time, since the dash area had a good size mouse nest just under the glove box and a well dried skeleton in the A/C ducting:hhmm:. i wouldn't have any doubt that there may not have been much regular maintenance done, based on this observation.

the PO said that he had done 'some' work on it, but didn't elaborate. he also said that he had been letting his son drive it......explains the missing radio and the various dents and body damage:rolleyes:, but i figured at the price i was paying, i couldn't complain too much. since i didn't take the 'crusier out on the highway the day i test drove it, the whine didn't show up......my bad:doh:

how do i know i have the F2 engine? is it marked or otherwise different from the 3F or 1FZ? the engine doesn't make noise or run badly, but from my experience with the honda motors, it won't show any signs until it is too late, right?

guess i am going to have to do a BUNCH of reading. since i don't have a FSM, is there one or at least chapters on line i can download? thanks.
 
How do i know i have the F2 engine?

You have a 2F. There should be a "2F" marked on the valve cover.

Since i don't have a FSM, is there one or at least chapters on line i can download? thanks.

Yes, the links below.

Emissions manual - Top of list.
Master Portal - forums.bauchan.org/Toyota - Technical - Mechanical

Land Cruiser BJ/FJ/HJ 60 Series - Motor & Electrical - Seven from the bottom of list
Master Portal - forums.bauchan.org/Toyota Workshop & Repair Manuals

Land Cruiser Chassis & Body Manual - 1980 - Five from bottom of list.
Master Portal - forums.bauchan.org/Toyota Workshop & Repair Manuals
 
lots of good help here.
I live in Helena working in Hamilton right now. There are a few guys on mud from Missoula.
The 2F engine will take alot of abuse and keep going, it's alow compression "tractor" motor.
PM if you need parts.

Paul
 
x2 on the fsm and welcome i live in hamilton and would love to see a pic of your rig so i know who im waving at when you pass
 
Welcome: I am near Dillon. There is no cover for the front differential, only the rear. If you check the fluid level in either differential, be sure to use a six point 24mm socket and be careful. Those fill plugs self destruct with the slightest effort. SPector off road had replacement allen head plugs if you need them. Do not pull the drain plug until you are sure that you can get the fill plug out.
If you have to get into your front end, Cruiser Outfitters has good prices on rebuild kits and bearings.
 
went out and actually took a good look at the engine compartment. right there on the front of the engine on the valve cover...2F. i guess if you dont know what that means it is meaningless. by the way, the aluminimumumum plate on the fire wall also says "4230cc....2-F......257.9 cu.in....FJ60-LG......:mad:

so i guess i get to at least check out the clearances and see if it needs adjustment. any recommendations as to how much clearance i need? the only experience i have is with my bikes, and the factory specs on those are not what is commonly held to be the correct amount of clearance used by people who actually tune these bikes [.005 vs the .002 reommended by the factory].

HEY Montana guys! i know a few toyota off-roaders around here, mostly from where i used to work. for parts, i know about this guy in florence named jason, and i know about the guy that lives up highway 12 outside of lolo. you used to be able to find lots of toyota parts at Missoula Auto Salvage, but they crushed everythiing last spring and dont have much left anymore.

i don't off-road, myself......logging roads are plenty good enough for me. i used to have a jeep wagoneer i took all over the roads around missoula....now it is getting too built up, may as well stay in town:meh:
my 'crusier is that lovely high performance neon beige color that seems to be the most common for the older land cruisers. i have some pics somewhere.....i guess i can take some more, but other than the racks on top and the chrome wheels, it looks pretty basic. i wave at all the cruisers i see.....some wave back.:cheers:

oh yeah..thanks to PAFJ for the links!
 
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Rob: Intakes are 0.008 in and Exhausts are 0.014 inch. Engine must be warm. There is a procedure in the Toyota engine manual. If you are doing the adjustment by yourself, I have found that the easiest way to move the flywheel is to jack up one rear wheel, put it in high gear, and turn the rear wheel.
 
you are in it now

Welcome to mud , fairly new myself, originally from Salmon, been all over but now back in Idaho falls. Started with a 87 Fj60 and thought I could hold to a budget. But the damm things get in your blood and you find yourself damm near giving blood to feed the addiction. Have fun with it.:beer:
 
Welcome to mud , fairly new myself, originally from Salmon, been all over but now back in Idaho falls. Started with a 87 Fj60 and thought I could hold to a budget. But the damm things get in your blood and you find yourself damm near giving blood to feed the addiction. Have fun with it.:beer:

Ain't that the damn truth, may change my 60's name to

Vamparilla.:rolleyes: But all in all it's a good addiction compared to

others,:clap: I at least don't jerk in convulsions when I can't drive

her for weeks. :bang::bang::bang:
 
Rob: Intakes are 0.008 in and Exhausts are 0.014 inch. Engine must be warm. There is a procedure in the Toyota engine manual. If you are doing the adjustment by yourself, I have found that the easiest way to move the flywheel is to jack up one rear wheel, put it in high gear, and turn the rear wheel.
those figures are what's called for in the Haynes manual as well, seems pretty straight forward. the biggest headache is going to be getting the stock air cleaner and valve cover off. since i live in Montana, there are no emissions standards i need to worry about [to all you with smog checks;p], so i may end up "misplacing" a lot of the smog stuff.:wrench:

for what it is worth, i did a check of the local automotive repair places [with the usual results i get when i try to enlist a
"professional"]. the shop that specializes in Toyota quoted the job at 4 hours and wanted over $300....all the other shops that would admit to even wanting to work on it quoted only a couple hours and under $160.:hhmm:
Sooo....where is a good place to get a valve cover gasket?
 
You probably will not need a valve cover gasket; the one that is on it probably will not be damaged. It seals without silicone. If you are planning on a desmog at the same time, you will need to do some homework. Not all the stuff with hoses should be removed. Don't expect a huge leap in either power or mileage with a desmog but it will make your life oh so much easier. And, it will eliminate a lot of things that can go wrong that you did not need to start with.
 
yep, i was readiing some of the posts on desmogging here earlier this afternoon. as a point of reference, i am 6'4" and have pretty meaty paws. anything i can do to make more room to get into and around the engine, the better. especially on the left side, where the cruise control and other worthless stuff is in the way. i usually detail out the engines of my vehicles, and just haven't gotten around to this one yet.

i am also a full time college student at the moment [long story] and dont have as much time to fool around on stuff as i used to when i worked full time. when i do have time i am usually on one of the bikes, which i love to ride. and then there is the skylark....a project in process.....that is a joy to drive, but needs a bunch of body work. too many toys and not enough time to devote to each one the attention they need. this is why i have only just now started to look at the landcruiser, after owning it for a year. :o
 
was that your red one at Costco on friday eve?
 
nope. mine is neon beige, not racing red:D
 

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