I use the pictured GKN CV joint grease.
To pack a new pair of brifs in the knuckles, it took about 30 sachets to do the job.
I will be checking the level of the grease later on the week to see if that needs to be filled up further.
Moly Grease:
- Thread starter TheLoyale
- Start date
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I use the pictured GKN CV joint grease.
To pack a new pair of brifs in the knuckles, it took about 30 sachets to do the job.
I will be checking the level of the grease later on the week to see if that needs to be filled up further.
You could ask whomever you bought the grease from for a technical data sheet and/or an MSDS, it's apparently made for/by a company that remanufactures CV joints. For a cost comparison five tubes of Valvoline Palladium runs about $20 depending on your discount.
TheLoyale
The Legend
- Thread starter
- #25
Here is some post with pictures about the knuckle reseal. Went great!
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/524062-my-92-landcruiser-safariwagon-ii.html#post7920571
Thanks for all the helpful info everyone! Really helped me out.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/524062-my-92-landcruiser-safariwagon-ii.html#post7920571
Thanks for all the helpful info everyone! Really helped me out.
why moly?
What is it with Molybdenum disulfide that makes it absolutely necessary? during my search for a local moly based grease, I found out that SHELL Gadus S2 V220AD (formerly Retinax HDX) has moly and is lithium calcium based. But Gradus S3 V220C (formerly Retinax LX) has a higher standard grade (s3) and is specially formulated for wheel bearings. Should I pick the moly one just because it has moly or should I use the higher grade one that Shell states is specially made for wheel bearings?
What is it with Molybdenum disulfide that makes it absolutely necessary? during my search for a local moly based grease, I found out that SHELL Gadus S2 V220AD (formerly Retinax HDX) has moly and is lithium calcium based. But Gradus S3 V220C (formerly Retinax LX) has a higher standard grade (s3) and is specially formulated for wheel bearings. Should I pick the moly one just because it has moly or should I use the higher grade one that Shell states is specially made for wheel bearings?
for wheel bearings you can use any wheel bearing grease. for birfs, you need moly grease, which also happens to be used for cv joints.
Why can I not use wheelbearing grease for the birfs? it has all the correct characteristics for the job.... except moly. What is it with Molybdenum disulfide that makes it absolutely necessary? what happens if I don´t use moly based grease?
TheLoyale
The Legend
- Thread starter
- #29
I obviously packed my Birf with Moly during the rebuild. But it is funny that ya'll mention that, Everytime I've rebooted a CV axle, I've always disassembled the joint, cleaned it and repacked it with Kendall Superblu, which is just a bearing grease. Never had an issue with the joint after tens of thousands of miles.
The Birf it self is basically a Large DOJ (Double Offset Joint) So I wonder why a Moly based grease is really needed.
Perhaps the Birfs are under more load and run hotter than CV axles, so the Moly compound has a longer life under harsher usage.
The Birf it self is basically a Large DOJ (Double Offset Joint) So I wonder why a Moly based grease is really needed.
Perhaps the Birfs are under more load and run hotter than CV axles, so the Moly compound has a longer life under harsher usage.
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I think you could get away with using a high quality wheel bearing grease for the Birfield joints (for a while), but the molybdenum additive gives it added protection against failure under high load. Molybdenum is a common requirement in industrial severe load situations. I think its pretty safe to say that using a high quality moly grease can greatly extend the life of a Birfield joint when a good maintenance schedule is followed.
what about the wheel bearings then? with the bigger wheels the load on them must multiply also... is moly based not the best option for them also?
The way I have read and understood from many threads you want a moly grease on things that are sliding against one another. Like the sliding section on the driveshafts. Or how the balls in the birfs move in the cage. The wheel bearing grease (non-moly) would be something I would use on bearings since they are rolling. For example the needle bearings in the u-joints.
I believe something else I read was if you use moly grease where you need wheel bearing grease you could wear flat spots on the individual bearings since the grease is so slippery.
But all that is what I have read so I'm not sure what is right or wrong.
I use Moly grease in the birfs and the sliding section of the driveshafts, and wheel bearing grease on the u-joints and the wheel bearings.
I believe something else I read was if you use moly grease where you need wheel bearing grease you could wear flat spots on the individual bearings since the grease is so slippery.
But all that is what I have read so I'm not sure what is right or wrong.
I use Moly grease in the birfs and the sliding section of the driveshafts, and wheel bearing grease on the u-joints and the wheel bearings.
There have been lots of people that have run moly grease in their bearings without any issues. I have yet to see any pictorial evidence/proof that moly has caused any problems. Just make sure the grease is rated for wheel bearings.
aaah thank you.
just what i was looking for. some -reason- for using moly. this thing about sliding versus rolling makes sense to me. I thought the balls in the birfields rolled when it moved around but they might tend to slide, or at least more so then the rollers in wheel bearings.
aaah thank you.
The most important thing is to have something in there!
Flat spots on wheel bearings is an old wives tale. It does not happen.
Someone please scientifically explain how a using a better lubricant will accelerate wear on roller bearings, and no, don't tell me that bearings are going to start sliding all of the sudden, now that molybdenum has been added.
Keep in mind that in order to get a flat spot on a conical roller bearing, you will need to get flat spots on HALF of the bearings in the assembly at once, it would be EXTREMELY difficult to create a flat spot on one bearing without getting flat spots on the bearings around it too.
I'll give $10 via PayPal to anyone who can provide proof of flat spots on wheel bearings due to the addition of Molybdenum in wheel bearing grease.
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Someone please scientifically explain how a using a better lubricant will accelerate wear on roller bearings, and no, don't tell me that bearings are going to start sliding all of the sudden, now that molybdenum has been added.
Keep in mind that in order to get a flat spot on a conical roller bearing, you will need to get flat spots on HALF of the bearings in the assembly at once, it would be EXTREMELY difficult to create a flat spot on one bearing without getting flat spots on the bearings around it too.
I'll give $10 via PayPal to anyone who can provide proof of flat spots on wheel bearings due to the addition of Molybdenum in wheel bearing grease.
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