Molasses rust removal, anybody tried this? (1 Viewer)

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I will have to look that up im sure there are lots of better ways to remove rust. I think the beauty of the molasses is how cheep it is and that it doesn't use any chemicals. So far I have used under 30$ dollars of molasses and it's still going strong. Pretty hard to submerge a frame though haha

Check this Star Trek gun out

 
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Technically you are supposed to dispose of muriatic acid properly. That is why the molasses is so good, no worries about disposal.
Question to All: Would you think that molasses would clean a heater core similiar to muriatic acid?
 
I have no idea... but I think it might. As a kid you would put a penny in coke for a couple days and it would come out all shinny. might work, I would start with a small piece of copper or brass first. If I remember I will throw a piece in mine and let you know
 
Yeah, if you can that would be great. I had forgotten about coke, that stuff cleans everything!! I want to pull and clean the heater core in the 60 before I switch in the Evans.
 
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Copper spoon no scrubbing only rinsed
 
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though this was brass before I put it in, Apparently it's copper
 
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I'm not usually in this forum, but I stumbled on your thread. Hope you don't mind. There's a YouTube video of a guy using a barrel of molasses to clean copper wire for recycling. You get more money for "clean bright" copper. I recently used ketchup to clean corroded wires when I had to do a harness repair. Took about 20 minutes to get them nice and bright and no resistance. Same trick your mom used on her copper bottom pans. Hope that helps.

Carry on.
 
47coeman said:
Another is to do muriatic acid I think 3-1 Water, It is available at your swimming pool supplies not to bad. This what the acid dip people use. All paint and grease must be removed.
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Muriatic acid is amazing stuff but you need to be VERY careful with it. Muriatic acid the is the commercial name for hydrochloric acid and in it's pure form is vey nasty stuff. this is the kind of stuff that you actually should wear rubber gloves and a respirator when handling, instead of just ignoring that warning label like we all do on everything else. The stuff gives off strong fumes that burn when you breath them in, trust me it hurts. we had some at my old job for butting in the pool and dissolving concrete. It is also used in drilling and mining for dissolving rock.
 
LittleJohn said:
Muriatic acid is amazing stuff but you need to be VERY careful with it. Muriatic acid the is the commercial name for hydrochloric acid and in it's pure form is vey nasty stuff. this is the kind of stuff that you actually should wear rubber gloves and a respirator when handling, instead of just ignoring that warning label like we all do on everything else. The stuff gives off strong fumes that burn when you breath them in, trust me it hurts. we had some at my old job for butting in the pool and dissolving concrete. It is also used in drilling and mining for dissolving rock.
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Yes I agree with you if you are not clear on how to handle this acid read and be careful
 
we used to use muriatic at the boat yard all the time, usually for removing barnacle bases on delicate bits and pieces, but also for flushing out engines.

Good way to perm your nostril hair. Acrid does not begin to describe it...
 
seapotato said:
we used to use muriatic at the boat yard all the time, usually for removing barnacle bases on delicate bits and pieces, but also for flushing out engines.

Good way to perm your nostril hair. Acrid does not begin to describe it...
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Ya I remember when I was a kid we had a built in pool. Dad and I would clean the walls when it was empty of course it was diluted way down. However if you weren't careful it would have bad effects on your respatiry system that is why you need a respirator, mandatory. It is just like gas dangerous if not handled correctly. Acid is a good tool but must be handled carefully.
 
I may have to get a bucket of molasses now.

Dragged ye olde piston pump out of the crawlspace. Motor runs fine , but its a tad crusty inside the wet end.

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Too cool not to fix up.
 
I found it's best to submerge fully as parts above the molasses line can rust from condensation. You should be able to tell within a day if it's working bubbles with coming up in a rough shape if the object. If nothing is happening it needs to be warmer. I had to move mine from the unheated garage to the house. It hasent taken more than a week on anything no matter how rusty once it was warm enough. I throw every little rusty part in there now for fun haha, it's an exciting life!
 
seapotato said:
Yeah, I just didn't want to submerge the gearbox.

Plus my bucket ain't big enough...:lol:

Small bathroom in my shop has a baseboard, so I left the heat on in there. Swmbo wasn't so down with it being in the house...
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Got that pump all cleaned up yet!?
 
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