modifying the slope of my roof

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Threads
11
Messages
85
i have a problem with my roof, that frankly has to be addressed during the dry season, this year. the problem is that like the rest of the house, the fireplace chimney is also t1-11/wood and attached to an outside wall. there both meet , a small rain water catchment/gutter is created- between the chimny and the homes roof. the org builder did slope it to get the rain water off, but it's just too shallow to do the trick, and rain water has started to seep into the chimny and is showing it'self inside on one side of the fireplace. so with that in mind, i've decide to re slope the roof to a more favorable slope design( this will be just the"catchment"area and sourounding that for about 5 foot- after the shingles are back in place, i'm planning on haveing a second layer of shingles placed by an contractor ( the first layer is past it's theroetical age limit-23years. i have the skills to do the modifaction to the roof...but would love to find a tutorial addressing this kind of modification. i do lack the skills and time to post pics of the effected area. any and all leads and ideas are appreciated- thanking all in advance
 
Last edited:
ok, the following is not my roof, but is from the net and looks reasonably close to it. of course this is a brick chimny and i am dealing with wood Monessen Hearth - ( in this pic there SEEMS to be a cricket already installed-disreguard this element- the roof just rolls up to the chimeny and a valley is created) my org. thought would be to add a "cricket" along these lines Don’t forget…Chimney’s are Part of Your Home too! « Dale’s Blog the trick is, as i see it, to design it as to make things drain well, and to minimize the matl and labor. homes roof slope is about 1/1 rise to run. and fwiw this will be visable from the street. asphalt shingles both before and after
 
Last edited:
So, build a cricket using 2x12's or something in that size range. A framing square can help you a lot getting the right angles.
 
flashing is everything....
cricket.webp
 
Your flashing is going to be different than that drawing if you have a framed chiminey with T-I-11 siding. You will need counter flashing with z flashing tucked under your siding and overlapping the roof to wall metal.
 
On second thought a one piece unit fabbed up by a sheetmetal shop would be better but $$$$. First option is ok if done properly.
 
thank you batcom youre advice is what i needed, the chiminey is indeed framed with t1-11. i work in construction but, flashing and weather proofing is something that i know very little about. and "counter flashing with Z flashing tucked under the flashing", has me scratching my head. so i'll have to do a bit more serching on the net so i can find a pic of what that looks like .
 
thank you batcom youre advice is what i needed, the chiminey is indeed framed with t1-11. i work in construction but, flashing and weather proofing is something that i know very little about. and "counter flashing with Z flashing tucked under the flashing", has me scratching my head. so i'll have to do a bit more serching on the net so i can find a pic of what that looks like .


Most likely you are going to have to get a sheetmetal shop make up individual pieces for you unless you have the skills and tools to do it yourself. If you are in construction, talk to a sheetmetal guy and he can help you out. If you don't know anyone, stop by a sheetmetal shop and they can show you what you are going to need. I'm sure they would be happy to help.
 
Try FineHomebuilding.com - should have some articles on what you are trying to do.
 
ok, after a bit of research i think i have a good understanding of the combination of flashings needed for my application...the z flashing is easy enough to understand/and it's use is pretty much straight foward. the "roof to wall metal" batcon spoke of will be my "step flashing" used under the shingles and extenting up and under the lower edge of the z flashing. above the "step" of the z flashing a fresh section of t1-11. since i'll have to remove the esisting t1-11 plywood from that side of the chimney to facilatate the framing for the "chricket" , peicing everything back together will be fairly easy. now all i have to do is wait for the weather to break. that might be in july( gotta love the pacific NW) thanks to all
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom