Mobil 1 Extended Performance High Milage (1 Viewer)

[kcjaz]

So I use 0w-20 full syn in my 200 and Taco. I usually by the “extended performance” that claims 20,000 mike oil changes but never go more than 10k and now change annually which is about 5 to 6k now that the Taco is the daily.

I am wondering if there really is any significant difference in the seemingly endless flavors of Mobil 1. Specifically if there anything that is really going to make a difference in the “high milage” flavor? I’m at 160k. The label says something about detergents which spooks me more than makes me think it’s a good thing. If anything, I’d be more inclined to run 5w-30 as my “high milage” oil if I start seeing oil consumption.

I’m also wondering is the 20k oil is really better if I’m changing it sooner. What ever they do to oil to make it run longer may be a compromise for the first 5k.

 

[bloc]

As I understand it "high mileage" oils are typically at the upper end of the specified viscosity range, have more viscosity modifiers to prevent thinning due to shear, sometimes have "seal swellers" to try and slow down leaks on high mileage engines (typically the primary reason I WILL NOT run these formulations), and sometimes have a higher "TBN".

But, I'm more used to the intricacies of diesel oils.. gas may have some carryover. but not all.

TBN is basically the oil starting more Basic, to account for increased acidity as combustion byproducts contaminate the oil over the change interval. This is why a higher mileage oil would have higher TBN.. more blow-by to start with for more contamination, and if extending the drain intervals you have longer for the TBN to drop, and want to keep it from getting so low that the acids in the oil cause damage.

For years I did my best to nerd out on the motor oils I was putting into my diesels.. going so far as finding a relatively antiquated diesel oil to put in the 1KZ-TE I swapped into my 4runner, based on research suggesting Japanese engine manufacturers typically prefer increased calcium due to how they set up their valve trains... which is different than european or american builders. What I slowly learned is that "basic" major-brand full-synthetic that meets factory specs in a viscosity that works (thicker is not always better), as cheap as you can find it, is for all intents and purposes overkill for most modern engines as long as we change it often enough. What that means to me, in my cruiser, is ROW-spec 5w-30 Pennzoil Platinum can consistently be found for $17/5qt jug on rebate at oreilly, and I put it in every 5k, unless a trip causes me to go over, up to 7500. I've noticed increased oil consumption if I go past 7500 on a change, despite an otherwise tight engine. 5w-30 because it did a great job of quieting down my valvetrain.. and that gives me the warm fuzzies. Plus I haven't had a single instance of timing chain slap since the 5w-30 switch, though this may be coincidence. It happened a few times before, but wasn't at all frequent.

I'd have no problem running 0-20 if that was all I could get, or substantially cheaper. Personally I'd stick to 5k changes vs pushing to 7500 or 10k with the thinner stuff though. Less margin before mechanical shear puts it into unsafe territory.. and one way to fix this is increased viscosity modifiers, which also isn't necessarily a good thing.

 

[bloc]

Oh, and there is more reading than you could ever want on the subject at Bobistheoilguy.com

 

[bloc]

I forgot to discuss detergents.

Yes, they generally increase those in these oils. And it typically isn't really a bad thing.

Thing is if your vehicle has had the oil changed often enough, running high quality synthetic the whole time, they likely aren't needed. The main goal is to slowly break down and remove varnish (slow being the key.. don't want it coming off in chunks). but for example my old TDI VW had over 300k miles on it with 10k OCI on the dot running mobil 1.. not a hint of varnish under that valve cover. Granted these are engines that testing showed can go 20k on an OCI.. but still. Detergents aren't enough to push me toward using high mileage oils, one way or the other.

 

[Reckless]

So I use 0w-20 full syn in my 200 and Taco. I usually by the “extended performance” that claims 20,000 mike oil changes but never go more than 10k and now change annually which is about 5 to 6k now that the Taco is the daily.

I am wondering if there really is any significant difference in the seemingly endless flavors of Mobil 1. Specifically if there anything that is really going to make a difference in the “high milage” flavor? I’m at 160k. The label says something about detergents which spooks me more than makes me think it’s a good thing. If anything, I’d be more inclined to run 5w-30 as my “high milage” oil if I start seeing oil consumption.

I’m also wondering is the 20k oil is really better if I’m changing it sooner. What ever they do to oil to make it run longer may be a compromise for the first 5k.

Someone had posted on another thread not to purchase the high mileage one as it leaked/damaged their engine. Use the search function in this forum.

 

[04UZJ100]

Avoid HM oils. I run M1 synthetic 5W30 in all my JDM 2UZs and 3URs. I change the oil every 6-9 months in the Cruiser (<1,000 miles) and between 5-6,000 miles in the LX.

DIY all of it because I I don’t trust dealerships and enjoy fully functioning HVAC recirculation doors.

 

[linuxgod]

So I use 0w-20 full syn in my 200 and Taco. I usually by the “extended performance” that claims 20,000 mike oil changes but never go more than 10k and now change annually which is about 5 to 6k now that the Taco is the daily.

I am wondering if there really is any significant difference in the seemingly endless flavors of Mobil 1. Specifically if there anything that is really going to make a difference in the “high milage” flavor? I’m at 160k. The label says something about detergents which spooks me more than makes me think it’s a good thing. If anything, I’d be more inclined to run 5w-30 as my “high milage” oil if I start seeing oil consumption.

I’m also wondering is the 20k oil is really better if I’m changing it sooner. What ever they do to oil to make it run longer may be a compromise for the first 5k.

160k isn't really high mileage on the 3UR-FE, it's probably 1/3 of the engine life. If it was an inline 4 Dodge engine I'd feel differently. (Yes I have low opinions of pretty much any "economy" engine made by the US big 3).

I would just use regular TMGO or Mobil1 0W-20 unless you have an issue you're hoping to resolve/reduce. There's not really a reason IMO to go to a special formulation or 5W-30 unless you are having issues (higher than expected oil consumption, timing chain slap, or you live somewhere like Texas where it never gets much below freezing). I doubt any additives will cause you issues, but why risk it if you're not trying to offset a problem that you'd have to deal with anyway?

I'm very confident you can run 10k oil change intervals with TMGO or similar if you're not doing severe duty (towing, or lots of city driving), given my oil analysis from Blackstone. But I wouldn't run a 20k oil change cycle, even if I was only cruising back and forth across the country at 55MPH, without testing some oil samples at 10k and 15k miles to ensure there's sufficient TBN and not too much oil dilution.