Mitsu 4M40 injection pump on 1Kz ??

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Joined
Aug 16, 2006
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This guy says an injection pump from a Mitsubishi 4M40T will fit on a 1KZ with slight modification.
Anyone ever see this before?
On ebay the 4m40 mechanical pumps are much more common and less $$$.

Also says a pump from a 2L will bolt on.

1kzte/86 surf swap progress - ToyotaDiesel.com Forums

"Just finished swaping my old 2lt pump on my 1kz-te (or t now) for a mitsubishi 4m40T injector pump out of an '95 L400 4wd van wasn't the straight forward swap id hoped but got there in the end after removing things like the cold start and throttle position sensor + modyfing fuel lines and throttle linkages and making a new mount for the rear of the pump. once on and bleed she fired up nice and allready sounded even better, so naturally i wound up the goost to around 15 psi and wound up the fuel too. . what a differnce!!!! it now just bakes the rear tyres in 2nd and even in 3rd!"






Also this place says 2L flywheels can have the holes re-drilled to work on a 1KZ. And also that the 2L bellhousing will bolt to a 1KZ.

dieselHead.net - inventory

"1980's
Toyota
Pickup / 4Runner / Surf
Diesel bell-housing. Allows you to mate Toyota L, 2L, 3L, 1KZ-TE to a gasoline transmission.
$225
1980's
Toyota
Pickup / 4Runner / Surf
Diesel flywheel
6-bolt modified to 8-bolt for use with 2L-TE, 3L, 1KZ-TE
$325
"


Anyone know if the flywheels need re-balancing or will they swap with just re drilling the holes? Is the bellhousing an a 2L the same bolt pattern on the engine side as a 1KZ?

All the 1KZs imported to the USA are automatics with EFI.

Id really like to swap in a 1KZ with a mech pump and a manual trans.
 
Why swap? I mean even though substitute will cost less but the problems it will give you in long term... I say go for original toyota intended parts.

For 1kz swap, I know a 2L's master cylinder kit and reservior works well with 1kz's. I knew that well yet i still replaced it with original 1kz's part even though it cost me twice the amount.
 
Why swap? I mean even though substitute will cost less but the problems it will give you in long term... I say go for original toyota intended parts.

For 1kz swap, I know a 2L's master cylinder kit and reservior works well with 1kz's. I knew that well yet i still replaced it with original 1kz's part even though it cost me twice the amount.

This religeon of using OEM parts only is a phony one in most cases. Toyota only make a very small number of parts themselves.
In this case,the injector pumps for both vehicles are made either by Nippondenso or Bosch Zexel.
The bozch zexel pumps actually have a record that is better then the denso.
Most of the parts for a new toyota are made in japan.Replacement parts are increasingly made by offshore subsidiaries in SE Asia and the PRC.

My dealer sells OEM air filters made in taiwan. Why should I pay him $60 when I can get the same air filter in a different box for $30
 
Why swap? I mean even though substitute will cost less but the problems it will give you in long term... I say go for original toyota intended parts.

For 1kz swap, I know a 2L's master cylinder kit and reservior works well with 1kz's. I knew that well yet i still replaced it with original 1kz's part even though it cost me twice the amount.

I believe the reason for the swap is to gain manual control over the fuelling. Instead of the electronic control which isn't as easy for the user to tweak (although plug in user-settable devices are available).

I agree with Roscoe on the "Genuine Parts" racket. There are cases where genuine parts are superior to what is commonly available, but those cases are usually rare.
 
The ones that are sealed with toyota plastic bag and in a toyota box are Not made by toyota? This is something new to me.

In any case, I recently changed brake pads and leathers. Cost me about USD 100/-. It was sealed with toyota seal and came in toyota box. I compared to other pads (made by GMB or something) and other Taiwanese make, the quality difference was huge. The price difference was almost half. It came with a manual so I replaced them myself.

I agree that after market performace parts are better performing than company and one should go for that. But I will never opt for say a non toyota certified cheapo and risk my life over it.

And fuel pump... Well... If when, ever, it starts to give trouble, it will break your back but will never work out. But since this is for the sake of performance gain, do what ever it takes.

Regarding air filter. I agree. Just buy what ever that seems good enough to work.
 
The ones that are sealed with toyota plastic bag and in a toyota box are Not made by toyota? This is something new to me.

Nope. Hasn't been that way for many years with any big vehicle manufacturer. Foreinstance, there are a number of parts I can take from an 80 and easily swap into my Safari. The Bosche VE pump is used in so many applications and by so many manufacturers it will make your head spin.
 
The ones that are sealed with toyota plastic bag and in a toyota box are Not made by toyota? This is something new to me.

.

No ,anyone can print and pack the boxes. I remeber a kid I knew once who got a job in a big parts distrubtion centre.
His job was putting parts in OEM boxes.

Toyota make very little themselves like most car manufacturers.
I watched a doco about them once,it showed families assembling dashboards in a tiny workshop under a railway line. The dashboards were put into Toyota bags ready for the 7am shift.

Im not saying Toyota parts are not quality,I am saying we are overcharged for them and you can sometimes buy the same part in different packaging fr a lower price.
 
I want to transplant a 1KZT in to a north american spec 4Runner.

I do not want the computer, miles of wires and a hundred sensors.

I want the simplicity and realibility of mechanical injection.

I have transplanted EFI onto gasoline/petrol engines, and its great, but for a diesel, whats the point?

On the Ford 5.0 1990 engine that I transplanted in to a 67 Bronco, it will run with every single sensor disconnected, and the upper intake removed, and half the injectors removed.

On my 96 4Runner with the 3.4 gas engine, it wont start if one sensor is unplugged.

Ive owned a few 18 wheelers and the electronic controlled ones were total garbage. Sure they used 10% less fuel, but they broke down all the time, this sensor, that sensor. Left me walking too many times.
The mech injected ones always got me back home, even with a split injector line squirting diesel all over, I didnt have to pay for $500 for a tow truck and lose $500 a day in revenue.

I want a diesel that is bulletproof, which means mechanical injection, but none of the 1KZ/Ts are available with a mech pump. and the Mitsu pumps are about 5X less $$$ to buy.
 
If you want manual all the way, why not go with a Toyota 3L and put an AXT or some kind of other turbo on it.
 
If you want manual all the way, why not go with a Toyota 3L and put an AXT or some kind of other turbo on it.

WHat kind of power will that make?

And will the engine last if it is not designed for a turbo?

Usually NA engines have a too high compression ratio and no oil squirters to keep the pistons cool.

Is the 3L the one that cracks heads as much as the 3Vz 3.0 gasser blows head gaskets?
 
If you want manual all the way, why not go with a Toyota 3L and put an AXT or some kind of other turbo on it.

The 1KZ is a better engine than the 3L, despite being turbo'd it cracks heads less often.
It is also quieter and smoother.
Apparently there are mechanical 1KZ-T engines but I have not seen one. If you could find the pump model from that then it might cross reference into a direct bolt in.

A prime example of the overpriced toyota parts was the $120 windscreen washer jets for my old corolla. Parts guy was pretty embarassed about that one.
 
Ok. I guess I should consult you guys before making any big purchase.


I have a LJ77 with 1KZ-T (turbo direct). It has mechanical fuel pump, no ICs or sensors of any kind.
 
Ok. I guess I should consult you guys before making any big purchase.


I have a LJ77 with 1KZ-T (turbo direct). It has mechanical fuel pump, no ICs or sensors of any kind.

They are the best and cheapest.
IMO ,if it were mine I would stick with the OEM pump,but if you can make another work and enjoy tinkering with them,why not;)

If you had the 1KZ TE engine you would have no choice as only Toyota seem to be able to repair the electronics on the pump. When it dies,you take it to the dealer and they give you reconditioned unit with new electronics for about $2500AUD.
I spoke to diesel shop on someone elses behalf and they said there is no way around this.

My rant about OEM parts drifted off into all parts in general:D
 
Ok. I guess I should consult you guys before making any big purchase.


I have a LJ77 with 1KZ-T (turbo direct). It has mechanical fuel pump, no ICs or sensors of any kind.

What country are you in?

And can you ship us a couple of em?
 
I want to transplant a 1KZT in to a north american spec 4Runner.

I do not want the computer, miles of wires and a hundred sensors.

I want the simplicity and realibility of mechanical injection.

.

There is a 1KZ T from the mid 90s and a 1KZ TE into the 2000s. The E is for electronics.
The years can differ greatly for various countries.
They are now using the 1KD FTV engine with common rail

The elctronic fuel pumps are ok until they stop .The dealer has no parts list for them so I am told and they will only take your old one and give you back one of their own recon units for $$$$.

Being a site for home mechanics ,there is a lot of us who shun electronics(except for surfing the net:D )

There is also a 5L and 5LE diesel sold in oz spec Hilux in the late 90s . I think it was used until the Hilux got the 1KZ/D engine
 
There is also a 5L and 5LE diesel sold in oz spec Hilux in the late 90s . I think it was used until the Hilux got the 1KZ/D engine

5L (not sure about E or not) was sold in NZ through to the end of the last shape. It was the poverty pack option, only sold to fleet buyers who didn't have to drive them themselves.
 
What country are you in?

And can you ship us a couple of em?


I am currently at a fairly remote location. However, I have seen 1Kz-T lying around here, a lot. And they cost a lot too. Around USD 3000/- (roughly).
 
parts:
repackaging is common for all manufacturers.
i like using toyota parts since they are usually a plug and play. nothing wrong with tinkering for those so inclined. if it wasn't for the tinkerers then how would be ever know what might or might not work?
 
KZN130s came with both electronic and nonelectronic pumps. KZJs as well. Not sure about KZN185s. Unfortunately, that KZJ7x pump is about $4000 new from Toyota. I've been quoted around $1100 for a non-OE 1KZ-T pump in the states.. but am sortof holding out on the possibility of stumbling upon a cheaper one at some point. Plus my -TE pump is working well enough for the time being.

As to OEM vs Non-OEM.. Chitsterer primarily installed the mitsu pump to avoid the electronics of the 1KZ-TE pump. And like someone mentioned, if that happened to be a bosch/zexel pump, it is likely to last LONGER than the OEM Toyota Denso anyway.. so where is the valid argument to run OEM at all costs? Match up pump plunger diameter, injector opening pressure, and timing curve... and you are golden.

There is a 1KZ-T (not -TE) on ebay right now for a pretty penny (and has been for about 6 months). though it appears to not be an OEM pump.
 

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