Misfiring/No Start After Long Drive (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Apr 11, 2025
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Pittsburgh, PA
2006 LX 470 with 93,000. At the end of a 450 mile, 9 hour drive it starts misfiring. This occurred specifically after 45 mins-1 hour in stop and go traffic in 90 degrees heat

I don't recall exactly if I cut the engine off or it died but it wouldn't start back up. After 1 hour of waiting for a tow I decide to to try and start it again. It started up immediately with no misfire or engine lights

From there I had it towed straight to a shop that I was planning on taking it to next week for maintenance items (timing belt being one). I'll find out more next week but mainly curious what others think it could be in the meantime

The temp gauge was good at the time of misfires. My initial thought and what I'm hoping for is that the truck is on the original plugs still and a coil went bad. I only have myself to blame if that was the case :doh:

I'll report back any findings..
 
Are you able to plug in an OBD reader and pull codes?
 
Are you able to plug in an OBD reader and pull codes?

No, I had it towed straight to a shop that I was scheduled to take it to on Monday

Just wondering what it sounds like it was, to others familiar with this platform (which I realize could be a lot of things). I should have a proper diagnosis in the next day or two

I'll be honest, when it occurred my mind immediately jumped to the worst case scenario (timing belt let loose). Getting it to restart with no CEL made me feel a lot better
 
Hopefully it’s not a timing tooth jump related issue. It can be one of 06/07 related misfire issues that can be attributed to fuel delivery - fuel pump / fuel filter / fuel injectors, or O2 sensor related, or MAF/vacuum hoses related one causing bank1/2 system lean (not enough air-to-fuel mixture).
 
Hopefully it’s not a timing tooth jump related issue.

Well now I'm worried again 😬

Could it start again seemingly fine if timing related?

It can be one of 06/07 related misfire issues that can be attributed to fuel delivery - fuel pump / fuel filter / fuel injectors, or O2 sensor related, or MAF/vacuum hoses related one causing bank1/2 system lean (not enough air-to-fuel mixture).

Was going to be my next guess

I assume the long running time/heat to be a contributing factor in the issue
 
06-07 have a weak fuel pump. The way to test: Is best on a hot sunny day ~90f, accelerate (climb hill, entering HWY, passing, etc.) getting RPMs over 3K (fuel pump, is put into high speed) and hold that RPM for a few minutes or more. Let off gas pedal dropping RPM below 2K. Engine dies! Dies from fuel starvation. If watching fuel trims, they be very lean after RPM drop. Often if one, scans for DTC (codes) check, before IG key turned off. We'll see BK1 and BK2 lean DTC.

We park a let cool down ~20 minutes. Engine start and runs fine.
 
Well now I'm worried again 😬

Could it start again seemingly fine if timing related?
Yes, “if” it had skipped timing that can easily be readjusted back to factory spec. If you’re doing it by yourself, you will need an SST aka Special/Specific Service Tool - but thats after you cross the bridge.
Was going to be my next guess

I assume the long running time/heat to be a contributing factor in the issue
It’s likely those wear items, considering your truck’s mileage is still sub 100k mileage. Every summer season we get all sorts of fuel delivery-related and misfiring-related concerns, and it has become a typical trend here in the forums also seeing the 100 series going in to the 2 decade mark.
Basic checklist:
•check fuel pump
•check fuel filter
•check gas cap (should not smell strong fuel vapor smell after a drive -indicates gas cap is not venting properly, just replace it with OEM).
•check MAF (try known good MAF)
•check vacuum hose lines (should be leak-free)
•check airbox and intake hoses for any cracks especially between the MAF and throttle body.

Advanced checklist:
•check spark plugs and coils
•check injectors
•check throttle body
 
Now we're talking. Anything but a catastrophic engine problem please lol

I'm eager to find out. On one hand it was some pretty bad timing for this to occur...

On the other, glad the problem presented itself. Better than it happening on a true vacation or a trip where getting it sorted would be an issue
 
Updating to say I have no real updates yet - but have done a lot of reading on this topic since (mainly @2001LC 's always helpful posts). I had no idea it was this common of a problem, and I don't think I would have done anything differently if I did, since I wasn't experiencing issues prior

Couple questions I do have though... is how are we deciphering between the fuel pump failure common in 06-07s and vapor lock? And how common is the fuel pump resistor on the 06-07s overheating and causing the issue rather than the pump itself?

Some additional context which may or may not matter, but I filled up 2x on the trip with about 1/4 tank left. On the second fill up, the gas pump auto-shutoff at about 80% full. First time I've noticed this on my LX (my LS does this often). No noticeable fuel smell. The engine stalled with over 1/2 a tank left
 
Hot ambient stop and go after a long highway journey (fully heat soaked engine bay), possibly fuel boiling leading to the misfires. Common for 100's when doing low speed offroad in very hot climates.
 
06-07 have a weak fuel pump. The way to test: Is best on a hot sunny day ~90f, accelerate (climb hill, entering HWY, passing, etc.) getting RPMs over 3K (fuel pump, is put into high speed) and hold that RPM for a few minutes or more. Let off gas pedal dropping RPM below 2K. Engine dies! Dies from fuel starvation. If watching fuel trims, they be very lean after RPM drop. Often if one, scans for DTC (codes) check, before IG key turned off. We'll see BK1 and BK2 lean DTC.

We park a let cool down ~20 minutes. Engine start and runs fine.
First I'm reposting. Since I wrote out how to test 06-07 fuel pump.
Updating to say I have no real updates yet - but have done a lot of reading on this topic since (mainly @2001LC 's always helpful posts). I had no idea it was this common of a problem, and I don't think I would have done anything differently if I did, since I wasn't experiencing issues prior

Couple questions I do have though... is how are we deciphering between the fuel pump failure common in 06-07s and vapor lock? And how common is the fuel pump resistor on the 06-07s overheating and causing the issue rather than the pump itself?

Some additional context which may or may not matter, but I filled up 2x on the trip with about 1/4 tank left. On the second fill up, the gas pump auto-shutoff at about 80% full. First time I've noticed this on my LX (my LS does this often). No noticeable fuel smell. The engine stalled with over 1/2 a tank left
Vapor lock may happen, due to bad charcoal canister. The EVAP VSV on DS of intake manifold, needs testing first. Fuel filling pump shutting off eari;er on hot day after driving. May also be indication of a bad charcoal canister. BTW: On the 06-07 I also replace the CC pre filter.

Fuel pump resistor, do run hot. I've never seen one bad/fail.

Here's what I'd do, in this order:
Coolant service.
Tune.
R&R fuel pump if fails above driving test.
R&R charcoal canister, if any signs it's having issues (fould).
 
I talked to the shop today that has my LX. There were no codes logged in the ECM from the stall event and the EVAP system is good

They have heard of the fuel pump issue also but were clear it’s just a best guess at what the cause was (without trying to recreate the pump failure). It still sounds to me like that’s the most likely culprit it so just having them replace it

Besides that - nothing unexpected. They will be replacing the original radiator and heater tees when they do the timing the belt
 
Apparently this wasn't the first occurrence of this in this vehicle. Can't believe I didn't notice this

8/7/2016 (61740 miles)
SERVICE: SPECIAL SERVICE CAMPAIGN
DESCRIPTION: ~|~CUSTOMER STATES THE A/T FUEL LIGHT STARTED BLINKING AND THEN VEHICLE SHUT DOWN WHILE ROAD TRIP. LIGHT IS CURENTLY OFF AND VEHICLE IS DRIVING NORMAL A/T OIL TEMP LIGHT. ~|~PERFORMED A VEHICLE INSPECTION PER CUSTOMER CONCERN OF A/T FUEL LIGHT BLINKING-ROAD TESTED VEHICLE TO MADISON AVE AND BACK-VEHICLE DID NOT ACTED UP-PERFORMED A HEALTH CHECK AND CHECK FOR CODES VEHICLE HAD A CODE C1340- CENTER DIFFERENTIAL LOCK CIRCUIT-PER ~|~PERFORMED VEHICLE INSPECTION. T-10

A/T Oil Temp light did come on right before it shut off but I didn't attribute that to the problem
 

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