Mini truck power steering (accessory post to Romer's awesome writeup) (1 Viewer)

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This is only accessory information to the awesome writeup by Romer on the Mini truck power steering conversion - read that first . These are my random notes on how to do this fast-ish (I have toddlers and super limited wrenching time nowadays).

Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic and don't profess to be so if anything in here is wrong, well I'm no pro. Happy to learn from y'all as always so send feedback

Huge thanks to Romer and his writeup!


My Parts List:

-JT outfitters high pressure line,
-JTO Frame bracket,
-Reman Saginaw pump from JTO
-PS box from a 79-85 mini truck , 4wd.
-Eight 3/8" grade 8 bolts x 2 inch for mounting box to bracket and bracket to frame with washers and lock washers and nuts
-5 more 3/8 by 3/4 long" bolts with washers for filling unused mounting holes on Saginaw pump
-Silicone sealant for bolt threads
-Optional: Power steering cooler from Amazon (recommended by some).
-Belt - the one that fit mine (yours may vary) was a AutoZone 'Armor Mark' 4L500
-Lucas PS fluid 2 quarts


Definitely remove the fender. Way easier access for steps. Wouldn't even consider optional.
I had to get a 18"breaker bar from Lowes to loosen the front two head bolts for the JTO ps pump bracket. Get one, you'll use it again.
My child before buying breaker bar: "Dada why are you all sweaty?"
The JTO high pressure line needs no o-ring or fitting on the Saginaw end , and DOES need a brass compression fitting on the box side. Mine came with the PS Toyota box.

You HAVE to use the pitman arm off the manual box - the mini truck pitman is too long - use impact gun and PB blaster soak overnight .

Hint: Borrow or buy an electric or pneumatic impact gun to make old bolts removal easy and fast for this job.
Be sure to have 24" plus of extensions around (helps especially on loosening the column bolts at the firewall while your 18 mo old kid is standing in the drivers seat yelling "go").

Definitely pick up a magnet on a telescoping rod to make the dismantling of the drag rod from the box easy as Romer recommends - No idea how I would have done this otherwise. You'll use the magnet again when you drop bolts deep in the engine compartment one day on your always broken land rover.

After cutting off the frame rivets on the old box bracket (used cutting wheel and took about 10 mins for all 4), use an air hammer to punch out the rivets that remain the frame holes. Drilling out takes forever especially if you have dull bits like I do.
I whacked with a punch and hammer way too long before switching to the air hammer. (Bonus this day. Didn't even wake napping child and incite fury in wife).

Lesson learned: Consider using a sharp air chisel to remove rivet heads instead of a cutting wheel. Retrospectively, I bet it would have gone faster and easier. Has to be sharp though they say...

I only had one leak in the test drive which was not from a line fitting , but from one of the Saginaw ps pump mounting holes I wasn't using.
You have to plug all of these babies with 3/8" bolts , so be sure pick up another six to eight 3/4" length bolts and washers for this.

Feel free to contact me if you have any questions. I am no pro but it's fresh in my head.

Again, thanks to Romer and use the 2 instruction sets from JTO posted online. John was helpful when I called to ask questions.

The drive is so much better now, especially parking lots.

Glad I did it , although now wife may want to drive it...doh!


Hunter

image.jpeg
 
This is one of the easiest and best things I did for my 40. I used a Toyota pump because I had the holes for the Toyota pump bracket.
 

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