Mighty short cruiser

[Gib009]

what do you mean it wouldn't even reach the bolts? you mean the rim has too much off set to reach the studs of the wheel carrier?

No, if the door was open it would reach the bolts, but with the door closed the tyre would hit the chrome bumper before it would reach the bolts. But with the mount flipped, the rim can go onto the bolts, but not all the way... which is what is shown in the first pic.

personally, i like the 7* series with no rear bumper...

Me 2, i think it would look better with the quarter panels chopped though... they look unfinished.

I agree, looked good without a rear bumper, but you still need to fab up a decent recovery hook and spread the load across the rear of the chassis.


For practicality its a good thing I reckon to have a rear bar, can integrate a good strong recovery point, will have rear end protection and when I cut my quarters off I can extended it to the wheel wells.

Yeah i was wandering... have you had any problems using the 4bolt point? I always thought it was just a factory tie down point and wasnt a proper recovery point.
When are you doing the quarter chop? I would love to see it.

i find this post interesting, after years of super hard tugs on the 4 bolt pinto hitch i have yet to see the rear cross member twist or bend...

are you boys using kenetic straps and ropes or cable and chains?

I use a snatch strap for all my recoveries. So you havnt had a problem using the factory recovery point on the rear cross member?

 

[Hulsty]

No, if the door was open it would reach the bolts, but with the door closed the tyre would hit the chrome bumper before it would reach the bolts. But with the mount flipped, the rim can go onto the bolts, but not all the way... which is what is shown in the first pic.



Me 2, i think it would look better with the quarter panels chopped though... they look unfinished.



Yeah i was wandering... have you had any problems using the 4bolt point? I always thought it was just a factory tie down point and wasnt a proper recovery point.
When are you doing the quarter chop? I would love to see it.



I use a snatch strap for all my recoveries. So you havnt had a problem using the factory recovery point on the rear cross member?

I havent had a problem in the area of the standard 4 bolt loop. My car didnt have the loop when I got it, I used a spot next to it and tore the rear cross member. I decided rather than put a shiitload of energy through those 4 bolts i'd spread it across the whole rear of the chassis as best I could. I've now got 10 bolts holding on my rear bar/recovery setup and that bad boy hasnt moved even snatching 3tonne of patrol bogged above the 35''s in some thick quicksand goop from 20ish km/h multiple times (which is what tore my rail last time)

Persoally i'd rather over engineer my recovery points, and the bonus is a solid rear protection bar. I havetn worked it out, but i'd say my recovery point will take significantly more load than I put through it.

 

[Gib009]

I havent had a problem in the area of the standard 4 bolt loop. My car didnt have the loop when I got it, I used a spot next to it and tore the rear cross member. I decided rather than put a shiitload of energy through those 4 bolts i'd spread it across the whole rear of the chassis as best I could. I've now got 10 bolts holding on my rear bar/recovery setup and that bad boy hasnt moved even snatching 3tonne of patrol bogged above the 35''s in some thick quicksand goop from 20ish km/h multiple times (which is what tore my rail last time)

Persoally i'd rather over engineer my recovery points, and the bonus is a solid rear protection bar. I havetn worked it out, but i'd say my recovery point will take significantly more load than I put through it.

Thats true... Yours is quite a nice simple bar. Got any close ups of it mounted?

 

[crushers]

no problem with overkilling the snatch point... i am just saying i have never had a problem with the 4 bolt location... remember the rear cross is also stiffened by the angle from further up the frame...

20ish... you need to come play someday...

 

[Hulsty]

no problem with overkilling the snatch point... i am just saying i have never had a problem with the 4 bolt location... remember the rear cross is also stiffened by the angle from further up the frame...

20ish... you need to come play someday...

On your chassis is the re enfrocement over the whole rear of the 4 bolt pattern? on mine it stops at the edges of the bolt pattern leaving it open so you can put in there and fit nuts to the bolts.

 

[crushers]

the two peices come within a 1/2" of each other...
i will check again tomorrow to confirm...

 

[fortysixandtwo]

Awesome cruiser man I am really digging it.

 

[Gib009]

Awesome cruiser man I am really digging it.

cheers man im having a sqwiz at your ride now. Looken great

 

[Gib009]

Chopped my guards, flexed it up at powerlines and they would of scrubbed if they werent chopped so pretty happy about that. The front seems fine except when fully flexed and turning but a 1inch body lift should fix that.

Also thinking of chopping my outer guards to the crease line shown here, and then getting some of the real flares to hide the cut. What do you think?

Went to powerlines today as i was bummed about not being able to go to wedge. The MTRs provide so much more grip and the larger tyres made everything so much easier. I did a CV in still deciding what replacement ones im going to get. Also thinking a locker in the rear would keep stress off the front diff as it would keep me moving rather than just spinning opposite wheels? Well thats what the situation was today. Oh and the rear end scrubs like a bitch... def need to sort that out ASAP

Anyway heres a few shots, ive got vids but am getting them tomorrow.

And here is how it sits next to my mates w a 2inch lift and 33's.

So now the up and coming mods are:

1) replace springs in the rear to level the front
2) new cv's (longfields or yuris)
3) 1inch body lift
4) new convertor as im sick of no music or cb
5) Cut outer guards and do flares
6) Get rid of rear draws and put in a lightweight false floor as a compromise
7) rear lokka if i can afford it
8) remove rear bumper and tow bar and chop quarter panels
9) make a front bar so i dont get yellow stickered, still not sure if i want to keep my winch as i am loving the approach angle

 

[crushers]

ummm, how will you do the false floor with the fuel tank in the way?
go elec winch 8274 mounted high up...

 

[hoser]

I think Gib009 means a lightweight floor, 8-12" above the real floor. Basically a shelf, no drawers.

 

[crushers]

ohh kay, i can see that...

 

[Hulsty]

Chopping on the outer guard up front will be good to help when turning with that big rubber! Looks good mate.

What rear diff is in that thing? Can you even get a locker for it here in aus? Most aus cruisers apart from really old 40 series and the newest 100's have full floaters.

It looks like a semi floater is it like a bundy/hilux/prado diff?


Where is it rubbing down back? Mine used to rub pretty bad on the rear inner gaurd wall, was fine everywhere else though.

 

[Gib009]

ummm, how will you do the false floor with the fuel tank in the way?
go elec winch 8274 mounted high up...

I think Gib009 means a lightweight floor, 8-12" above the real floor. Basically a shelf, no drawers.

Yeah just a shelf made out of angle iron and maybe plywood covered in carpet which is lightweight and strong, so i can still sleep on the top and wont sag the springs and still throw a load of stuff under it.

Chopping on the outer guard up front will be good to help when turning with that big rubber! Looks good mate.

What rear diff is in that thing? Can you even get a locker for it here in aus? Most aus cruisers apart from really old 40 series and the newest 100's have full floaters.

It looks like a semi floater is it like a bundy/hilux/prado diff?


Where is it rubbing down back? Mine used to rub pretty bad on the rear inner gaurd wall, was fine everywhere else though.

Yeah i think every bit is going to help, i will see after the body lift if it is going to rub at full lock full flex it might a bit so then i will cut the front and rears to that crease line.

I dont know what rear diff it is? My mate has the exact same model with the same diff and he is pretty sure you can get one as he is ordering one at the moment.
Pretty sure its not a bundera/lux diff as it is definatley full size 9 inch i think

Yeah it is rubbing really bad when you go over a bump quite fast... as in when you are slowly flexing the tyre slots right into the guard, but when both springs are compressed hard straight up then it rubs on the outer guard. A lift of the rear and a body lift should raise it about 2inchs so that should fix that... and like i said an extra 10mm cutting of the outer guard wont hurt.

What CV's you guys running with the 35's?

 

[Gib009]

Does anyone know what spline count i need for longfield cv's

 

[Hulsty]

Yeah i think every bit is going to help, i will see after the body lift if it is going to rub at full lock full flex it might a bit so then i will cut the front and rears to that crease line.

I dont know what rear diff it is? My mate has the exact same model with the same diff and he is pretty sure you can get one as he is ordering one at the moment.
Pretty sure its not a bundera/lux diff as it is definatley full size 9 inch i think

Yeah it is rubbing really bad when you go over a bump quite fast... as in when you are slowly flexing the tyre slots right into the guard, but when both springs are compressed hard straight up then it rubs on the outer guard. A lift of the rear and a body lift should raise it about 2inchs so that should fix that... and like i said an extra 10mm cutting of the outer guard wont hurt.

What CV's you guys running with the 35's?

That sucks its rubbing on the rear outer guards aswell! Some better springs and some chopping should help along with your body lift.

I'm still running stock toyota cv's, done 3 trips with the 35''s and no breaks yet, though did blow one with my 33''s, got airborne and the front landed between two rocks locking it solid. BANG! If your front diff is the same as aus delivered 70 series cruisers, you use 40 series longfields, either 27 or 30 splines, if you get the 30's you need longfield axels aswell.

 

[Gib009]

That sucks its rubbing on the rear outer guards aswell! Some better springs and some chopping should help along with your body lift.

I'm still running stock toyota cv's, done 3 trips with the 35''s and no breaks yet, though did blow one with my 33''s, got airborne and the front landed between two rocks locking it solid. BANG! If your front diff is the same as aus delivered 70 series cruisers, you use 40 series longfields, either 27 or 30 splines, if you get the 30's you need longfield axels aswell.

Ohk thats cool. Yeh i think ill get the 27 spline ones a guy on perth4x4 is selling his for $400 and i think he works at locktup4x4 who sell them new so yeh. Save a good 300 or so which is good. He is getting 30 spline ones as a replacement. Yeh i was kinda asking for it when i blew my cv, i was full flexed at opposite ends with only 2 opposing wheels on the ground and i tried to do the "ghetto locker" where you tap the brake to try get the tyres on the ground to move. Didnt work... CRACK!

 

[Gib009]

Got a pic and a vid from powerlines. Sorry its sideways. Interesting comparison between 33s and 35's... the same truck with 33's tryed about 4 or 5 times up this hill and mine did this on first go.

 

[Gib009]

Few more shots over the weekend

This is where i did the CV in. Front right tyre was hard up a hill, front left and rear right were just off the ground

And another flex shot for the hell of it

And another few videos. Didnt get to do any decent stuff as i was in 3wd from near the start.

 

[Gib009]

Small Update. Saw these seat covers for 20bucks at supercheap! Gotta be happy with that.

Hopefully they add a bit of comfort to the pretty harsh seats.

And finally got a spare! The low tread actually came in handy... Probably 2mm gap to open the first wagon door and not even a fag paper will fit between it and the bumper.

So no need to modify the mount, all that was needed was to flip it.