Builds Mid Life Adventure 2010 LX570 (2 Viewers)

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I may be wrong so please test with a multimeter but the white (is it maybe white and black) should be hot. There should also be a black common ground somewhere but you can ground to the frame.

I would test those to be sure. You would want to attach the hot wire to your control wire on your relay and then take the red from your light to your hot out from the relay. Then just find a place to tap the main power to your relay. If they included a fused wire, use that and tap directly to the battery.

Clear as mud, right?
 
I may be wrong so please test with a multimeter but the white (is it maybe white and black) should be hot. There should also be a black common ground somewhere but you can ground to the frame.

I would test those to be sure. You would want to attach the hot wire to your control wire on your relay and then take the red from your light to your hot out from the relay. Then just find a place to tap the main power to your relay. If they included a fused wire, use that and tap directly to the battery.

Clear as mud, right?
I can’t just splice the wires from the stock plug to the new rigid plug?
 
So both front and rear bumpers are on. Need to install swing outs, wire all electrical, and install some of the trim pieces.

2 x 8 hour days so far. Overall not to bad for a solo job. Had a fork lift to get the middle front portion with winch in place #lifesaver!

First cut is scary!
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Besides minor issues with poor quality bolts and missing a couple bolts it was successful day.


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I can’t just splice the wires from the stock plug to the new rigid plug?

This is what I did. Both diode dynamics and Baja designs make 100% plug and play fog lights. Not sure why a relay would be required.
 
I can’t just splice the wires from the stock plug to the new rigid plug?

You can, but you may end up blowing a fuse. I honestly can’t say. You should check the max draw for your new lights. If the draw is less or equal to the OEM lights then you will be fine.

The rationale for using the relay is that if the new lights exceed the carrying capacity of the OEM wire, it will blow the fuse. By using the relay, you can use the existing switch (ie the switch on the steering column) while also using a larger gauge for actual power for the lights. I am 100% sure this is how Ben has mine wired.

Having said that, check the max draw of the new lights and post back. You may be able to use the existing without a relay.
 
Unfortunately, Rigid does not provide a plug and play harness afaik. Also some of their fogs pull more than the OEM.

Yea I get you, wasn’t referring to the plug specifically. Just offering that in my case with them I wired direct without a relay with my current ironman fogs and BD squadrons before.
 
Wired fog light and they didn't work. 😭

I have the amber rigids. Would color matter? @radman , @kcjaz, & @1world1love did your rigid harnesses look like mine with the Relay do I need to add it?
 
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@radman Do you have the 4" or 6" fog lights?

I talked to Rigidd and they said stock wires wont trigger the 6" light but might work on the 4".
 
Wired fog light and they didn't work. 😭

I have the amber rigids. Would color matter? @raddman, @kcjaz, & @1world1love did your rigid harnesses look like mine with the Relay do I need to add it?

That shouldn't matter. So when you say they didn't work, do you mean that you have the headlights on and turn the fog lights to on and you get nothing?

Did you check the fuse? You may have blown it during install. Also, just to understand where you are now, you have two wires connected to your new lights, right? Red and black? And you just spliced the red to your oem white and black to your oem green?

Also, do you have a multimeter that you can check to make sure you are getting juice to the white wire when you turn the fog switch to on?
 
@radman Do you have the 4" or 6" fog lights?

I talked to Rigidd and they said stock wires wont trigger the 6" light but might work on the 4".

Is this because they draw more than the oem? Those wires are pretty small gauge.

The backup plan would be what I suggested earlier. Connect your oem white to the trigger red on the included relay, then connect the hot input of the relay to a fused always-on source. If they included an inline fuse, then you can use that direct to the battery, otherwise you will need to get a tap-a-fuse or get an inline fuse and splice. Just make sure that the fuse size is suitable to the minimum wire gauge.

Then you can connect the hot output of the relay to the red on your lights.

Something like this, but in this case, the switch is the oem switch so that would be your oem hot (white if that is hot):

Relay-Diag.jpg
 
@radman @1world1love @kcjaz

Never mind I forgot to plug the bumper back into the harness :doh:
Great. I though it would be odd because I think @radman has the same lights so if his work then yours should. Honestly though, when dealing with electrical, it’s always worth double and triple checking everything. Mainly so you don’t burn your truck to the ground 😂
 
Great. I though it would be odd because I think @radman has the same lights so if his work then yours should. Honestly though, when dealing with electrical, it’s always worth double and triple checking everything. Mainly so you don’t burn your truck to the ground 😂
Glad it worked out. I remember deep diving into the lights (I have the 6” sae), and I found that they only draw 1.5amps. Stock wiring can handle that no problemo.
 
Great. I though it would be odd because I think @radman has the same lights so if his work then yours should. Honestly though, when dealing with electrical, it’s always worth double and triple checking everything. Mainly so you don’t burn your truck to the ground 😂
Emailed Cole @ Dissent and he said using the stock wires is legit!
 

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