Method Racing Wheels (2 Viewers)

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This is my rig. These are the 18x9 701 wheels with BFG KO2 35/12.5R18. I'm not running any spacers at this point, and from my research I shouldn't have to but I haven't been able to test that off road enough yet. I'm working with Bencc to create a cap for the front wheels.
Do you have any close up photos of the wheel center bore and the hub flange bolts?
 
I have also been eyeing the "new" Method 703 in matte black - 17x8.5 with 35mm offset

Considering pairing with 285/75/17 or 295/70/17 or or 315/70/17

Roughly 2" lift on truck. Planning to flatten the pinch weld and trim inner fenders.

Based on the research I've done and my understanding (which admittedly, might not be great), I assume the 285/75/17s would just fit without interfering with fender when flexing, the 295s would likely interfere under flex, the 315s would DEFINITELY interfere with fender when flexing. Can anybody help confirm that my understanding is accurate? Also, anything else I should be considering, spacers, etc to avoid interference on inside with frame, etc

Thanks in advance for the help.
 
This is my rig. These are the 18x9 701 wheels with BFG KO2 35/12.5R18. I'm not running any spacers at this point, and from my research I shouldn't have to but I haven't been able to test that off road enough yet. I'm working with Bencc to create a cap for the front wheels.
I want in on a set of caps for the fronts! I have the same 701's and would like to finish things off properly.
 
I have also been eyeing the "new" Method 703 in matte black - 17x8.5 with 35mm offset

Considering pairing with 285/75/17 or 295/70/17 or or 315/70/17

Roughly 2" lift on truck. Planning to flatten the pinch weld and trim inner fenders.

Based on the research I've done and my understanding (which admittedly, might not be great), I assume the 285/75/17s would just fit without interfering with fender when flexing, the 295s would likely interfere under flex, the 315s would DEFINITELY interfere with fender when flexing. Can anybody help confirm that my understanding is accurate? Also, anything else I should be considering, spacers, etc to avoid interference on inside with frame, etc

Thanks in advance for the help.
Your reasoning is sound but can't really say definitively. "315" is the section width of a tire (bulbous part of the sidewall) but the interference occurs at the tire's tread width and that is different between AT, MT, tire design, etc.
 
I want in on a set of caps for the fronts! I have the same 701's and would like to finish things off properly.
Did you have to modify the hub opening on your method wheels (where the center cap fits) to clear the hubs on the front?

I ask bc I called method and they said it would not fully seat on a 100
 
Did you have to modify the hub opening on your method wheels (where the center cap fits) to clear the hubs on the front?

I ask bc I called method and they said it would not fully seat on a 100
It's a tight squeeze around the flange studs/nuts but clears. Been running them for 8k+ miles without issue
 
Your reasoning is sound but can't really say definitively. "315" is the section width of a tire (bulbous part of the sidewall) but the interference occurs at the tire's tread width and that is different between AT, MT, tire design, etc.
Thanks for the response. Good call. Below are the actual tire dimensions that I'm considering. BFG KO2s

285/75/17: 33.9" x 11.3"
295/70/17: 33.3" x 11.8"
315/70/17: 34.4" x 12.7"
Might as well throw in 35x12.5 which measure out to 34.5" x 12.5"

Im also wondering if I am just too damn focused on trying to keep the tire inside the fender well. I see a bunch of guys running methods with the tires "poking" out beyond fenders. I think it looks awesome but would be worried about the interference (and subsequent damage) upon flex. Any insight/comments on this dilemma is welcome as well.

Thanks!
 
@coleaconrad Well, it depends on the terrain. High speed desert and sand dunes would certainly put the tires into the fender if it's not bumpstopped enough. Timbren's or those Superbumps will help. So will 1" or more of body lift. But slow speed terrain won't usually damage the fenders.

For tires, also take a look at floatation size, 35x11.5R17 They are available in C-load.

Nitto Trail Grappler (MT)
Toyo AT3
 
Did you have to modify the hub opening on your method wheels (where the center cap fits) to clear the hubs on the front?

I ask bc I called method and they said it would not fully seat on a 100
Big grease cap on the front hub of the 100's. I have a set of NV's with +25 offset & the front caps, which are fairly deep, would not fit without modifying. They actually looked pretty cool with no front cap & the grease cap painted to match the wheels. I ran that for awhile before I used a stepped bit to drill out the front caps. They fit now.

Wheels 2.jpg
 
Not pre-runners, but its a DAF trend called Cali-Lean that’s over lifting front end, and lowering kit on back end to create a squat look- it’s not a functional mod it’s a “style” thing.

View attachment 2653474

Also called the Carolina squat. Its now illegal in North Carolina. Other states should follow suit.

 
Looking for wheels for my 100 but really the no solution of a center cap is a pretty damn let down. im leaning towards the 703. Would the option of a larger center cap help cover the front grease cap?


Paired with this


Or has someone worked a better solution
 
Looking for wheels for my 100 but really the no solution of a center cap is a pretty damn let down. im leaning towards the 703. Would the option of a larger center cap help cover the front grease cap?


Paired with this


Or has someone worked a better solution
I spoke with a method rep and they were about 99% sure the lip on the center bore that holds the center cap in place would not clear the 100 series front hub with the +35 offset

Having the lip bored out will eliminate the ability to run a center cap and can be expensive. Ask me - I just had a set bored out 😑

Not trying to be a Debbie Downer just want to help you make an informed decision

Good luck

@Nursebettty I should have clarified that the wheels I had bored were not methods. And there was a ton of meat. They quoted me $30 per wheel (had a set of 5). During the process they called and bumped it up to $50 per wheel. What was I going to do at that point ? I needed wheels yesterday and they had me by the ... live and learn.

Fwiw I had the wheels bored to 110mm and they cleared fine. Could not run the center cap

Those bronze 305s look great on your black 100 😍
 
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I was working with @BenCC to create a center cap for the 701 wheels, which is the same set up as the 703 wheels. I owe him some measurements that I dropped the ball on. I'll get those to him this weekend so he can finish the design so we'll have center cap options.
 
I was working with @BenCC to create a center cap for the 701 wheels, which is the same set up as the 703 wheels. I owe him some measurements that I dropped the ball on. I'll get those to him this weekend so he can finish the design so we'll have center cap options.
I have extra center caps I can send him, I forget which model I have but it should be the same center cap design we all need.

@BenCC let me know if you want me to send them.

Edit: I have the 311's.
 
Thanks for the replies guys, i think i may understand the issue now. Its best to get my head around all this before hand as they are expensive wheels in Aust and dont want to mess it up.

The 703 center bore is 110.5, the 305 bore is 116.5

This is the clearance of the 305 on the 100 series hub

Seems 6mm counts. I have had center bores enlarged before on 3 piece wheels on my small ford, it wasnt too expensive about 100 bucks i think. Hard to tell how much meat is there without looking at an actual wheel. The 3 piece had alot of material there.

theoretically you could bore 703s out to 116.5 and use 305 caps?

method.JPG


methods.jpg
 

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