Metal tech long travel rear

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Hence my rapid adoption and install of the antirock in the rear. I was scared to drive it!


I have zero drivability problems with the rear disconnected, I have put over 4000 miles and 1/3 of that through mountain roads. I can take corners hard enough that the dog and her bed side to the other side of the truck, so now I need to mount the bed
 
but you have the front...that is what I am saying...re-read :P
 
If you've got spare time, disconnect it and test it out. I'd be interested to see how different it feels.
 
I removed the front swaybar for several weeks and even w/ the Radflo suspension, it leaned far too much for my liking. It's been back on since and will not be removed again. I also found it doesn't hamper (the meager) front wheel travel offroad. I suppose if an additional mm or 2 of front travel is the difference between life and death offroad, remove it. ;)

(For reference, I ran my 80 w/ no front swaybar for years with a progressive/soft suspension from Frankie's; it leaned some but never felt unpredictable or loose.)
 
Un
I removed the front swaybar for several weeks and even w/ the Radflo suspension, it leaned far too much for my liking. It's been back on since and will not be removed again. I also found it doesn't hamper (the meager) front wheel travel offroad. I suppose if an additional mm or 2 of front travel is the difference between life and death offroad, remove it. ;)

(For reference, I ran my 80 w/ no front swaybar for years with a progressive/soft suspension from Frankie's; it leaned some but never felt unpredictable or loose.)

So you removed the front and not the rear?
 
My take- I recently removed my front sway with the 2.5 Toytec's up front and I really couldn't tell a difference. I've forgotten about it enough now while driving that I probably will keep it off.
 
No front with a rear = ok. No rear without a front = ok. No sway at all = AHHHHHH, especially with long travel/lots of flex.
 
Reviving this thread. I have non-kdss. I want to improve articulation when offroad on rutted roads and maybe some rocks up to medium difficulty. Not Rubicon difficult.

Also, I have standard travel shocks and rear airbags for now, but I am considering converting to the Dobinson C59-675V Variable rate rear springs (maybe 1.75” lift in rear) and maybe long travel rear shock. Keep the front with the Bilstein 6112s.

What’s better on my setups to improve articulation only while offroad (A) disconnect the rear sway bar only, or (B) disconnect the front sway bar only, or (C) ????

And I’m price sensitive as always, so looking for high ROI (return on investment).
 
I’ve re-read this thread twice and it seems like another option to get the most articulation is to do Dan’s setup

Option (C) = disconnect the front sway bars, disconnect rear sway bars, add rear antirock sway bars (what size?), rear Dobinson springs (675V), rear long travel shocks, increase brake lines, bump stops?

Maybe I can get like 4” of added articulation in the rear?

Or maybe I should stop overthinking these things and just get outdoors more often with what I have.
 
I started with the MetalTech long travel lift and Radflo shocks and when to Dobinson rear springs because of loads and love the set up, it rides so much better with the Dobinsons. I carry a MetalTech rear bumper, home made rear draw and ARB fridge all the time.
 
I ride empty most of the time even if I get the dobinson variable rear springs 675Vs. Which one did you get?

Also, did you do anything with the sway bars?
 
I ride empty most of the time even if I get the dobinson variable rear springs 675Vs. Which one did you get?

Also, did you do anything with the sway bars?
The heavy duty one, 600-800lbs ones
 
You musta gone with these (height is for 4Runner):

C59-701V - Variable rate, 600+ LB heavy rear load weight, 3" lift, long travel. 500/19.685”, 17mm wire, 210-245LB variable. Designed for those with heavy full rear bumper, tire carrier, roof rack, RTT, drawers, and fridge. Rides very well with all that weight, as well as when loaded even further.

I like these: Still 4Runner lift numbers
  • C59-675V - Variable rate comfort option, stock rear weight, 2.5" lift. 470/18.503”, 16mm wire, 157-230LB variable. Someone reported their Gx470 Got 1.75” lift
And the MT medium rear dual springs have spring rates of 104 lbs/in top and 220 lbs/in bottom. Maybe be 19.25”? free height. Are these really close to 3” rear lift on gx470?
 
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LT with no sway gets you 7.5" of wheel travel over a sway bar lifted truck. Add the anti rock to add back sway control to an acceptable level with minimal loss in travel.
@GXO i know this comment is over 6 years old…but Im still wondering.

is that comment with rear anti rocks and both front/rear sway bars removed?

I only want to remove one sway bar and I don’t know which one is best to remove for better articulation.

I have Bilstein 6112s with 700 lbf/in coils in front.

In rear I have icon 56550 extended length shocks with dobinson c59-675v coils, extended brake lines, 1” longer OCD sway bar end links, and everything else stock.

My gut tells me to disconnect the rear, but not sure if I gain more articulation this way than removing the front.
 
@GXO i know this comment is over 6 years old…but Im still wondering.

is that comment with rear anti rocks and both front/rear sway bars removed?

I only want to remove one sway bar and I don’t know which one is best to remove for better articulation.

I have Bilstein 6112s with 700 lbf/in coils in front.

In rear I have icon 56550 extended length shocks with dobinson c59-675v coils, extended brake lines, 1” longer OCD sway bar end links, and everything else stock.

My gut tells me to disconnect the rear, but not sure if I gain more articulation this way than removing the front.
I don't run front or rear. Rear makes the biggest difference on road in a lifted truck while not restricting travel "as much" as front. Front sways have always been CV boot eaters that I hate lol
 

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