Joey,
I considered welding the 36-1 wheel - few quick tacks and some short runs, didn't really fancy drilling and bolting or welding. Then I started thinking about the supercharger and decided I would drill out the rivets that hold the V pulley on, get a flat belt drive pulley (not toothed) machined up, either repace the water pump pulley or fit an electric water pump (one of my more wacko ideas) and replace the alternator with a Jag one and fit a belt tensioner. The 36-1 would mount on the flat belt pulley.
HA, that is more or less what I was thinking. Drill out the rivets, make a serpentine pulley and toothed wheel on my lathe and mill, then bolt it back to the balancer. However looking at the pulley/balancer it looks like the balancer is the only part that will separate as the pulley is a single piece attached to the shaft with the keyway and that would make fabricating that up a challenge for me.
I was also considering dumping the water pump with this.
Pegasus -Davies Craig 12 Volt Electric Water Pump, 80 Liter/min
I am definately going to run an electric power steering pump from a Toyota MR2. It's rated at 2000 psi, a Saginaw pump is only 1500 for performance ones. I would up finding a seller on Ebay in the UK of all places that had the PS pump, PS ECU, PS Driver, and steering wheel sensor for 40 lbs and about 50 lbs shipping this week. That comes out to around $170. In the US the PS pump alone goes goes for between 150 -250. Apparently you have a ton of MR2 Gen II running around there in the UK. With these I should be able to do variable PS following the instructions I found here.
Toyota MR2 Power Steering System I am connecting this to a 70's era International Harvester Scout II Saginaw Gear.
Fan is definitely going to be electric.
As for the alternator I figure a good old GM CS-130 one wire from the scrap heap should be good for now, about 140 amps new. I Think this should be enough juice to power it but I may go with a Mean Green 200 amp on at some point.
If I do go with the electric water pump at some point, That would meant that the only thing I would have running directly off the motor would be the alternator. At least until I get around to putting on the SC.
I think a knock sensor makes good sense - difficulty is getting a unit that is tuned to the frequecy of noise emitted when the cylinder "rings", that is dependant on bore diameter and should serve to elimanate lots of the engine noise. Using a spectrum analyiser is what is needed and my searching on the net suggestes something like daqarta.com might work - might even be used to generate a simulated knock saves hitting the engine with a spanner!
I remember reading somewhere that all knocks, no matter what the engine, had a very narrow and specific range of frequency and almost all knock sensors are generically tuned for it. It makes sense if you think about, it would cost a fortune if you had to create a new individual sensor for every model of motor. I am in no way speaking with any authority here so please correct me if I am wrong. I will have to look at that daqarta.com site later tonight.
Too bad you, Mac, and myself don't all live on the same continent, sounds like we would be competing for the most technologically advanced Frankencruiser.