Mechanical Water Temp Gauge Install Write-Up (1 Viewer)

[JLH911]

Howdy JH -

I'm doing this install now and a quick Q: Did you hook the autometer gauge lighting up to the dash dimmer circuit, or just direct wire to switched 12v?

If direct wire, how is the brightness? Bother you at night?

Autometer offers a dimmer for their LED replacements - I'm deciding whether to get that or not.

Thanks!

Hey Spike. I wired it directly to 12v. At night, in dark area, it can get a little bright, but it's not bothersome. I like the blue color.

The other brand (GlowShift)is able to change colors which is nice is one particular color is too annoying.

 

[JLH911]

autometer offers the same adapter or bushing.... I used it on my install when I had I-6. You might could do a search for the thread...I listed the part # but I don't recall subscribing to that thread. The reason for the bushing is that the hole is to shallow and the mechanical temp prope will not work without that adatper / bushing (if you are talking about installing the temp probe in teh cylinder head). Autometer also makes the adapters for a couple of differnet diameter hoses, such that you can install the temp propbe inline in teh radiator hose as the above poster did.

Yes, that's the adapter that I used. There should be a part number in there somewhere.

I noticed a problem though with putting the mech temp sensor in-line with the top radiator hose. It seems to be reading way high and I know I'm not overheating.

I mean I'm getting temps on the gauge of up to 260 and I know I'm not boiling over.

Who knows, maybe it's a faulty mechanical temp gauge or the sensor doesn't like being there in the top radiator hose.

Thanks

 

[gonzale20]

Hey Spike. I wired it directly to 12v. At night, in dark area, it can get a little bright, but it's not bothersome. I like the blue color.

The other brand (GlowShift)is able to change colors which is nice is one particular color is too annoying.

can you take a pic where you wired your 12v light for the temp gauge.

 

[DFXR]

I noticed a problem though with putting the mech temp sensor in-line with the top radiator hose. It seems to be reading way high and I know I'm not overheating.

I mean I'm getting temps on the gauge of up to 260 and I know I'm not boiling over.

Who knows, maybe it's a faulty mechanical temp gauge or the sensor doesn't like being there in the top radiator hose.

Thanks

Reviving an old thread here...

JLH, I appreciate the detailed write-up and would like to do the same - keep the stock coolant temp gauge working but install a mechanical one in-line in the upper rad hose. But this thread ended with a bit of uncertainty - abnormally high temp readings from the in-line mechanical gauge. Any developments with this? Are you still running it and have you either fixed it or just adapted to it? Any feedback would be appreciated.

I'm running a stock 2F with a new aluminum radiator and new OEM water pump, fan clutch, and thermostat (yes, with the o-ring). Stock gauge is reading very cool, which isn't totally surprising but it's still enough that I want to monitor it with more accuracy.

Thanks
DF

 

[Spike Strip]

It was his fuel gauge. Yes, fuel gauge.

This is what happens to them:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/27578-temp-sending-unit.html

btw, you're probably running a little cooler with the alum rad.

 

[DFXR]

It was his fuel gauge. Yes, fuel gauge.

This is what happens to them:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/27578-temp-sending-unit.html

btw, you're probably running a little cooler with the alum rad.

OK, thanks for the reply. I have read about the fuel gauge contacts causing spikes on the stock temp gauge (in that link and elsewhere). But was his fuel gauge spiking the aftermarket mech gauge that had its sender in-line in the rad hose as well? Seems like with a totally separate sender and gauge it wouldn't be related to the faulty fuel gauge issue. That I don't understand, but maybe I am missing something very obvious. Wouldn't be the first time.

Spike Strip, looking back thru the thread it sounds like you were going with an Autometer temp gauge as well. Did you use the stock sender location on the head or did you do an in-line setup, and if so, how's it working out?

I figured the combo of aluminum rad/ new fan clutch/ etc was a pretty solid explanation for the cooler temp. But after dropping all of that coin I figured spending another hundred or so to get a real reading wouldn't hurt. Not used to worrying about an old truck running cool but with this 60 there have already been many firsts...

 

[Spike Strip]

I set mine up pretty much exactly as JLH did, with sender in the top rad hose. Works very well, temp almost always around 190-ish, with an occasional wander up to 200* (190F thermostat). It's a clean setup and easy to install, particularly if you put the gauges on the A pillar. I added a Vacuum gauge to keep an eye on the condition of the valves.

Kept the stock temp gauge and added a 15 ohm resistor in-line in the green wire to the temp sensor. runs about 1/3 level most of the time... I plan to fix the Voltage Stabilizer as outlined in the above linked-thread. That's where most of the trouble lies with these inaccurate stock gauges.

And you're right about JLH initially having some issues with the mechanical gauge reading hot - I misread your post - sorry - but I think he's resolved that. Maybe PM him and let him know we're poking around in his old thread ?

 

[DFXR]

I will PM him and let him know I dug his thread up. Good to know that your setup is working out. I will likely do the same thing.

If anyone else is reading this thread, I did see out that Autometer makes their own version of the Steiger in-line gauge that JLH used:

Auto Meter

That's part number 2283. Hopefully using this with an Autometer gauge there won't be a need to hunt down an adapter for the sender.

I noticed that Autometer also makes a similar in-line unit for 3/4 or 5/8 heater hose. Maybe I'm overthinking this but would it make more sense to put the sender downstream of the t-stat rather than upstream? Like on one of the coolant lines from the t-stat to the oil cooler? Pretty shallow but maybe there's a way to make it work.

Or do I need to just STFU and do what's already been done and proven...

 

[Spike Strip]

I would have put the sender in a heater line but you're limited by the length of the lead, in a mechanical gauge. Since I put mine on the driver's side A pillar, top rad hose is all it's gonna reach. Heater line from head to heater valve does not circulate unless heater is on.

If you're gonna place your gauges in the dash, and go thru the firewall on the other side, then it may reach to the coolant lines to the oil cooler?

 

[1COWBOYROY]

THANKS GUY`S
I`M new on here and finally found this thread on this question i had stewing in my head
i drive a 98 tacoma 4x4 3.4, I didnt see where anyone mentioned particular engines and
applications

 

[Red Rattler]

You can also buy a Murphy Gauge, which has everything you need in a kit. With the murphy gauge you can also set the temp where you want a alarm to activate.

http://www.macquarrie.com.au/sites/default/files/pdfs/20t-series.pdf

 

[Butt Ugly Chuck]

Murphy Gauge. That's pretty cool!
Butt

 

[Red Rattler]

It also has the old school look to it. I fitted one before I started my resto.

 

[1COWBOYROY]

thanks this is the kinda feedback i was looking for on this subject i drive a 98 tacoma 4x4 the4 3.4l
and i have issues thanks again

 

[Spike Strip]

JLH - you let your silver star lapse so no pix ....

 

[Elbert]

I like mechanical gauges but always was not a fan that you cannot separate the sender from the wire during install. I think mechanical gauges are superior to electrical but a real gauge is better than the hot/cold type OEM setup.

 

[cyberfalco]

Resurrecting an old thread. The pictures are gone. Does anyone have the pictures?

 

[Output Shaft]

Pics have been gone for a long time. I wanted to see them too.
But the descriptions are good enough to figure it out.
Seems like the best setup is to replace the factory fuel gauge (yes fuel) in the dash cluster if the temp randomly spikes. The FJ62 fuel gauge is still available new from Toyota and fits exactly. It is the same meter as the FJ60 but with a nicer dial.
Once that is installed, the temp gauge should stabilize (mine did).

Then if you want redundancy, install a mechanical temp sender in the water outlet (radiator inlet) hose with a Tee fitting to have a back-up and something to worry about when you are driving.

 

[cyberfalco]

Cool, thanks for the reply. I always add some mechanical gauges to my older vehicles and I think this thread will help out.

 

[Spike Strip]

Just an update on this should anyone follow it in the future:

The 'Steiger' brand upper rad hose adapter was not a good fit. It was too long for the short upper hose and made the hose rub against the Power Steering pump reservoir. I finally changed it out for this one and much better fit.

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The autometer mechanical Temp gauge requires a 3/8" NPT hole and the radiator hose ID is 38mm or roughly 1.5".