Okay, first of all, sorry it took me so long to get to this.
I know there were a couple of people that wanted to see the installation as I did it.
As you will see, I skip a lot of obvious steps you'd have to take in order to do this mod. Example: removing the air cleaner to get to the temp gauge.
The overall install is pretty simple. It consisted of finding a location to mount the gauge(s), figuring out how to route the water temp gauge capillary tubing(and vacuum gauge tube) through to the engine bay and finally, where you would install the temperature capillary temp probe.
This is by no means the ONLY way to do it;it's the way I chose to install it:
Parts required: You'll have to source out some of the parts yourself as I bought most of them at a local store that has since gone out of business.
-Gauge Pod (or whatever you decide to use to mount the gauge(s).
-Mechanical Water Temperature Gauge: Your choice as to brand.
-Vacuum Gauge: Your choice again.
I will post photos showing the type I used.
-Pipe dope/thread sealant.
-Various hand tools that make the whole job easier.
Here are the pictures of the Gauges, Pod and Adapter used to mount the Temp probe onto the cylinder head:
Mechanical Water Temperature Gauge:
Vacuum Gauge: Performance Gauges & Gauge Pods GlowShift Gauges - Boost Wideband Air Fuel Gauges
Gauge Pod:
Temp Probe Adapter to Cylinder Head:
I started off by picking a location to mount the Gauge Pod.
I picked the Driver's side "A" Pillar:
Next, I found where I wanted the Water Temp Gauge and Vacuum Gauge tubing to come out through to the engine bay on the firewall:
I picked this rubber grommet because it's on the side the pod will be located on and it has a spare location for the tubes to come through:
I then had to find a way to get the tubes from where the gauges would be mounted to the inside area of the firewall. This is what I found. This is on the drivers side part of the dash on the left hand side.
You can see the blue threaded coupling from the water temp gauge is ready to pass through to fire wall grommet.
Make sure you get the tubing and gauges(if you're going to install two gauges) in place on the pod like you were going to mount them. If you forget to do this, you will have to pull the tubing back out to do it correctly. Trust me, I made this mistake.
Cut open a slice at the rubber grommet at the firewall so that you can get the tubes(and threaded connector) through to the firewall.
You will also have to peel back the stock sound insulation on the inside foot well area. Here you can see the light poking through the slice you made at the grommet:
Pass the threaded connector through the rubber grommet using some needle nose pliers on the engine bay side to pull through and out:
Be careful not to damage the threads.
Next, you will have to remove the stock temp sender and install the aftermarket temp probe(Bullet looking thing on the left hand side)
I ended up modifying my set-up later on and still use the stock temp gauge as well as the mechanical gauge, but for purposes of this write-up, I will just show how to install only the mechanical gauge.
Here is the stock cylinder head temp sender adapter that will need to be removed to place the aftermarket adapter:
Here is the Temp probe installed into the adapter that's installed onto the cylinder head. Make sure you use some pipe sealant. It's okay to use it here as this is a mechanical gauge.
That takes care of the Temp Gauge. Onto the Vacuum Gauge.
Same as before. Slice an opening at the rubber grommet. and pass the clear tubing through to the engine bay. I used a drill bit inserted into the tubing to make it rigid to pass through:
I picked this location to use the 3-way adapter to tap into a vacuum source:
That pretty much sum's it all up.
Again, you can do this many different ways, but this is the way I chose to do it.
I found out later that there is a plastic spray that closely matches the inside of my 60 that I can paint the pod with.
Also, make sure you dress up all the tubing nicely and out of the way using zip ties to secure them.
You will need some self-tapping screws to mount the gauge pod onto the "A" pillar securely.
If you have any questions, let me know and I will try to address them when I can.
You will also have to figure out what wiring sources to tap into to light up the gauges. I was able to find some by probing into them with a meter. I wanted ones that had voltage when I turned on the ignition.
Good Luck!
I know there were a couple of people that wanted to see the installation as I did it.
As you will see, I skip a lot of obvious steps you'd have to take in order to do this mod. Example: removing the air cleaner to get to the temp gauge.
The overall install is pretty simple. It consisted of finding a location to mount the gauge(s), figuring out how to route the water temp gauge capillary tubing(and vacuum gauge tube) through to the engine bay and finally, where you would install the temperature capillary temp probe.
This is by no means the ONLY way to do it;it's the way I chose to install it:
Parts required: You'll have to source out some of the parts yourself as I bought most of them at a local store that has since gone out of business.
-Gauge Pod (or whatever you decide to use to mount the gauge(s).
-Mechanical Water Temperature Gauge: Your choice as to brand.
-Vacuum Gauge: Your choice again.
I will post photos showing the type I used.
-Pipe dope/thread sealant.
-Various hand tools that make the whole job easier.
Here are the pictures of the Gauges, Pod and Adapter used to mount the Temp probe onto the cylinder head:
Mechanical Water Temperature Gauge:
Vacuum Gauge: Performance Gauges & Gauge Pods GlowShift Gauges - Boost Wideband Air Fuel Gauges
Gauge Pod:
Temp Probe Adapter to Cylinder Head:
I started off by picking a location to mount the Gauge Pod.
I picked the Driver's side "A" Pillar:
Next, I found where I wanted the Water Temp Gauge and Vacuum Gauge tubing to come out through to the engine bay on the firewall:
I picked this rubber grommet because it's on the side the pod will be located on and it has a spare location for the tubes to come through:
I then had to find a way to get the tubes from where the gauges would be mounted to the inside area of the firewall. This is what I found. This is on the drivers side part of the dash on the left hand side.
You can see the blue threaded coupling from the water temp gauge is ready to pass through to fire wall grommet.
Make sure you get the tubing and gauges(if you're going to install two gauges) in place on the pod like you were going to mount them. If you forget to do this, you will have to pull the tubing back out to do it correctly. Trust me, I made this mistake.
Cut open a slice at the rubber grommet at the firewall so that you can get the tubes(and threaded connector) through to the firewall.
You will also have to peel back the stock sound insulation on the inside foot well area. Here you can see the light poking through the slice you made at the grommet:
Pass the threaded connector through the rubber grommet using some needle nose pliers on the engine bay side to pull through and out:
Be careful not to damage the threads.
Next, you will have to remove the stock temp sender and install the aftermarket temp probe(Bullet looking thing on the left hand side)
I ended up modifying my set-up later on and still use the stock temp gauge as well as the mechanical gauge, but for purposes of this write-up, I will just show how to install only the mechanical gauge.
Here is the stock cylinder head temp sender adapter that will need to be removed to place the aftermarket adapter:
Here is the Temp probe installed into the adapter that's installed onto the cylinder head. Make sure you use some pipe sealant. It's okay to use it here as this is a mechanical gauge.
That takes care of the Temp Gauge. Onto the Vacuum Gauge.
Same as before. Slice an opening at the rubber grommet. and pass the clear tubing through to the engine bay. I used a drill bit inserted into the tubing to make it rigid to pass through:
I picked this location to use the 3-way adapter to tap into a vacuum source:
That pretty much sum's it all up.
Again, you can do this many different ways, but this is the way I chose to do it.
I found out later that there is a plastic spray that closely matches the inside of my 60 that I can paint the pod with.
Also, make sure you dress up all the tubing nicely and out of the way using zip ties to secure them.
You will need some self-tapping screws to mount the gauge pod onto the "A" pillar securely.
If you have any questions, let me know and I will try to address them when I can.
You will also have to figure out what wiring sources to tap into to light up the gauges. I was able to find some by probing into them with a meter. I wanted ones that had voltage when I turned on the ignition.
Good Luck!
