I just purchased a '97 LX450. Does anyone know a good cruiser mechanic in PHX?
Last edited:
Mechanic in Phoenix?
- Thread starter BillnArizona
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thank you for that information. I'll use it. I am trying to find someone closer, maybe in North PHX. If I have to though I'll try Thiel.
Thanks again!!
Bill
Thanks again!!
Bill
There's a guy in Scottsdale that specializes in Toyotas. I've used him for some things on our 4Runner. Honest guy, does good work. His name is Dave. He's in the same complex as Carey (sp?) that does the www.gotpropane.com. I'm trying to think of the shop's name. He's on the southwest corner of McClintock/Hayden and McKellips. Something "Imports". Wife remembered: Ultimate Imports. 425-0870. Just north of the 202.
HTH,
Sean
HTH,
Sean
Do you see older stuff in his shop? I know most "mechanics" these days won't touch anything that doesn't have OBD and a data port for a laptop or tester.
- Thread starter
- #8
Thank you again!!
That one off of cave creek is real close to my house, so I'll have to stop by and see that guy.
Glad to have all of your help!!
My LX450 I purchased has 130,000 mile on it. What should I look for as far as service on it? Belts look good, no oil leaks, and hoses look good. Anything I should be weary of, or any warnig signs I should look for?
Thanks
Bill
Also, should I start running a sythetic oil?
That one off of cave creek is real close to my house, so I'll have to stop by and see that guy.
Glad to have all of your help!!
My LX450 I purchased has 130,000 mile on it. What should I look for as far as service on it? Belts look good, no oil leaks, and hoses look good. Anything I should be weary of, or any warnig signs I should look for?
Thanks
Bill
Also, should I start running a sythetic oil?
Here's a post I found while looking in the Fj80 seciton. Hope it helps, Sean
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beowulf
CodeRed,
I'll take a little time here since you are reticent about the decision to move from a proven (to you) to an unknown 80-Series Land Cruiser.
Regarding the brakes:
These are large, heavy (3-tonne) vehicles. They are not "easy" on the front brakes if you are using the stock 80-Series pads. The solution is to use the 100-Series pads as most of us have done. You will easily get 30k, maybe 40k on a set of front pads. About the same with rear pads. This assumes normal use and good rotors.
Regarding the luxury amenities:
Air conditioning. Few problems here. We hear of the occasional leak and other isolated problems. I would say on a scale of 1 to 10 the A/C system is a 9 for reliability (10=No Failures, 1=Many failures.)
Power Seats. Few problems here. The only common problem is a plastic gear that can come off. Reliability scale=9. If you are a big guy you can get seat extenders from landtank. The leather on the driver seat can crack with age. Replacements are available or you can cheaply cover with cloth, or you can repair the panel.
Cruise Control. Very Few problems here. The CC actuator is not serviced and a new one is expensive. Reliability scale=9. There are some DIY "fixes" that a dealer wouldn't do but we have found these fixes will resolve the few problems that are reported.
Power Windows. Some common problems here; primarily with the driver window. Slow operation, poor electrical contacts, window coming out of frame. Reliability scale=7. Almost all of these issues are DIY fixes involving lubing the tracks, readjusting the actuator assembly, cleaning the electrical contacts, etc. Parts are available and not too spendy. If you go in to the electric switches, do the auto-up mod.
Moonroof (sunroof.) Some common problems here with leaks and wind noise. Both are easily fixed. The most common problem reported is water coming down the headliner. This is due to crud getting stuck in the drains and is an easy fix at no cost. Reliability scale=7 (mainly because a lot of people park under trees.) Those of us with no trees and no rain are clueless on this problem. The operation of the moonroof is rarely a problem. The mechanicals and the electrics are virtually foolproof. Reliability scale on this part would be a 9.
Fuel Injection.
The system is a superior design but like any engine, it sees a lot of use/abuse and must be maintained. Common issues (not problems) are dirty throttle body and the rare clogged/leaking fuel injector. Reliability scale on the entire system I would say is 8.5 There are a lot of pieces in the system. IAC, TPS, MAF, intake hose, injectors, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, fuel pump relay. We see a fair number of issues here but nothing out of the ordinary. There is a lot of wiring in the FI system and most of it goes through the EFI fuse. A wiring failure will blow this fuse and this will disable the vehicle. On the very few "tow it to the shop" stories that we hear; this blown EFI fuse is a likely culprit.
Computers.
There are several computers (ECM/ECU) in the 80-Series. There are very few reported failures with 1 exception. The ECM in the '93s is prone to failure and expensive to replace. Its a crapshoot on whether or not it will fail and when they fail the vehicle will continue to run but it throws codes. All other years have virtually no ECM problems and that includes the tranny ECM, the air bag computers, the diff-lock computers, and all other computers in the 80-series. Reliability scale=9 ('93 =6)
That covers the things that you mentioned. Now, I will raise the skirts and tell you of many known (to me) problems with the 80-Series. I won't elaborate on most of these but you can find more information by doing a search. Please read the summary at the end because I want to make a point.
PHH - There is a small hose that is difficult to access. It will fail with age and, like any coolant hose, the results can cause extensive damage if the engine is overheated. Inspect this hose (~$10) on your new purchase and replace it as PM and you'll be golden.
P0401 - The EGR system is problematic, esp. on the '96 & '97 models. Many of us have thrown this code and it can be frustrating to get it fixed. However, the repair cost is not bad (~$200) if you take it to a dealer and let them deal with it. This will not disable the vehicle and you can drive for months with a P0401.
Engine harness - The engine wiring harness passes close to the EGR valve and over time, the heat will melt wires giving indications of a fuel injection problem. You can be proactive and wrap this harness with good heat tape (~$20) and you may never have an issue. Most failures have not disabled the vehicle but the engine will run rough. If the failure shorts the EFI fuse then troubleshooting is a little more difficult.
Intake hose - There is a rubber intake hose that goes from the air cleaner assembly to the intake. This hose cracks with age. The vehicle will run poor but it is unlikely that this will disable the engine. The fix is a new hose ~$80.
Cooling system issues - The cooling system on the 80 will do an excellent job of keeping the engine temps at the design specs if it is in good condition. If it isn't, (like ANY vehicle) you can cause yourself a lot of problems. The solution is to baseline your used 80s cooling system (radiator, coolant, thermostat, hoses, rad cap, belts, etc.) and make sure the entire cooling system is operating at 100%. We have seen very few problems with the water pump.
Drive line issues - About the only thing we see here is the front axle service. The front knuckles should be properly lubricated at 60k mile intervals. This is not a difficult job but it is time consuming and messy. A proper front axle service will cost you about $300 (DIY) in parts and supplies. You will repack wheel bearings at this time, replace knuckle bearings, and repack the birfield joint (CV) during this service. You should repack front and rear wheel bearings at 30k mile intervals.
Starter issues - The Toyota starter is a simple device and is easy to R&R on the 80-Series. There are replaceable contacts and a copper plunger. They fail at ~90k miles and need to be rebuilt (~$25 parts). You should easily get 2 rebuilds which would mean you'll need a new starter around 300k miles. Not too shabby if you ask me.
Head Gasket issues - (Saved the worst for last) This is an enigma to many of us. We have seen poorly maintained vehicles approach (and exceed) 300k miles with the original HG. We have heard of HG failures in '97 (the newest) models at 50k miles. We have had original owners with impeccable maintenance that had a failed HG. We have had original owners with impeccable maintenance and ADDED SUPERCHARGER with the original HG. The statistics are all over the place and (my opinion) is that it's another crap shoot. Yours may last and it may fail tomorrow and it may have nothing to do with prior maintenance.
The good news is that the repair job is well documented (thanks to Dougie, Landtank, and others) and you can DIY in a long weekend and ~$500 in parts. Many of us would recommend that you do the HG as PM if you are concerned about it. Personally, I am watching mine like a hawk (aftermarket temp gauge) and at the first signs of impending failure, the HG will be replaced. I may also do it as a PM this spring but I said that last spring too... so I dunno. Mine has 165k on it with the original HG.
I think this about covers 90% of the things that we discuss in this forum and I want to make a point at this time: It is unlikely that your vehicle will "suffer" from all of these issues. Even if it does, you can do everything yourself and the costs are not that bad.
-B-
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beowulf
CodeRed,
I'll take a little time here since you are reticent about the decision to move from a proven (to you) to an unknown 80-Series Land Cruiser.
Regarding the brakes:
These are large, heavy (3-tonne) vehicles. They are not "easy" on the front brakes if you are using the stock 80-Series pads. The solution is to use the 100-Series pads as most of us have done. You will easily get 30k, maybe 40k on a set of front pads. About the same with rear pads. This assumes normal use and good rotors.
Regarding the luxury amenities:
Air conditioning. Few problems here. We hear of the occasional leak and other isolated problems. I would say on a scale of 1 to 10 the A/C system is a 9 for reliability (10=No Failures, 1=Many failures.)
Power Seats. Few problems here. The only common problem is a plastic gear that can come off. Reliability scale=9. If you are a big guy you can get seat extenders from landtank. The leather on the driver seat can crack with age. Replacements are available or you can cheaply cover with cloth, or you can repair the panel.
Cruise Control. Very Few problems here. The CC actuator is not serviced and a new one is expensive. Reliability scale=9. There are some DIY "fixes" that a dealer wouldn't do but we have found these fixes will resolve the few problems that are reported.
Power Windows. Some common problems here; primarily with the driver window. Slow operation, poor electrical contacts, window coming out of frame. Reliability scale=7. Almost all of these issues are DIY fixes involving lubing the tracks, readjusting the actuator assembly, cleaning the electrical contacts, etc. Parts are available and not too spendy. If you go in to the electric switches, do the auto-up mod.
Moonroof (sunroof.) Some common problems here with leaks and wind noise. Both are easily fixed. The most common problem reported is water coming down the headliner. This is due to crud getting stuck in the drains and is an easy fix at no cost. Reliability scale=7 (mainly because a lot of people park under trees.) Those of us with no trees and no rain are clueless on this problem. The operation of the moonroof is rarely a problem. The mechanicals and the electrics are virtually foolproof. Reliability scale on this part would be a 9.
Fuel Injection.
The system is a superior design but like any engine, it sees a lot of use/abuse and must be maintained. Common issues (not problems) are dirty throttle body and the rare clogged/leaking fuel injector. Reliability scale on the entire system I would say is 8.5 There are a lot of pieces in the system. IAC, TPS, MAF, intake hose, injectors, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, fuel pump relay. We see a fair number of issues here but nothing out of the ordinary. There is a lot of wiring in the FI system and most of it goes through the EFI fuse. A wiring failure will blow this fuse and this will disable the vehicle. On the very few "tow it to the shop" stories that we hear; this blown EFI fuse is a likely culprit.
Computers.
There are several computers (ECM/ECU) in the 80-Series. There are very few reported failures with 1 exception. The ECM in the '93s is prone to failure and expensive to replace. Its a crapshoot on whether or not it will fail and when they fail the vehicle will continue to run but it throws codes. All other years have virtually no ECM problems and that includes the tranny ECM, the air bag computers, the diff-lock computers, and all other computers in the 80-series. Reliability scale=9 ('93 =6)
That covers the things that you mentioned. Now, I will raise the skirts and tell you of many known (to me) problems with the 80-Series. I won't elaborate on most of these but you can find more information by doing a search. Please read the summary at the end because I want to make a point.
PHH - There is a small hose that is difficult to access. It will fail with age and, like any coolant hose, the results can cause extensive damage if the engine is overheated. Inspect this hose (~$10) on your new purchase and replace it as PM and you'll be golden.
P0401 - The EGR system is problematic, esp. on the '96 & '97 models. Many of us have thrown this code and it can be frustrating to get it fixed. However, the repair cost is not bad (~$200) if you take it to a dealer and let them deal with it. This will not disable the vehicle and you can drive for months with a P0401.
Engine harness - The engine wiring harness passes close to the EGR valve and over time, the heat will melt wires giving indications of a fuel injection problem. You can be proactive and wrap this harness with good heat tape (~$20) and you may never have an issue. Most failures have not disabled the vehicle but the engine will run rough. If the failure shorts the EFI fuse then troubleshooting is a little more difficult.
Intake hose - There is a rubber intake hose that goes from the air cleaner assembly to the intake. This hose cracks with age. The vehicle will run poor but it is unlikely that this will disable the engine. The fix is a new hose ~$80.
Cooling system issues - The cooling system on the 80 will do an excellent job of keeping the engine temps at the design specs if it is in good condition. If it isn't, (like ANY vehicle) you can cause yourself a lot of problems. The solution is to baseline your used 80s cooling system (radiator, coolant, thermostat, hoses, rad cap, belts, etc.) and make sure the entire cooling system is operating at 100%. We have seen very few problems with the water pump.
Drive line issues - About the only thing we see here is the front axle service. The front knuckles should be properly lubricated at 60k mile intervals. This is not a difficult job but it is time consuming and messy. A proper front axle service will cost you about $300 (DIY) in parts and supplies. You will repack wheel bearings at this time, replace knuckle bearings, and repack the birfield joint (CV) during this service. You should repack front and rear wheel bearings at 30k mile intervals.
Starter issues - The Toyota starter is a simple device and is easy to R&R on the 80-Series. There are replaceable contacts and a copper plunger. They fail at ~90k miles and need to be rebuilt (~$25 parts). You should easily get 2 rebuilds which would mean you'll need a new starter around 300k miles. Not too shabby if you ask me.
Head Gasket issues - (Saved the worst for last) This is an enigma to many of us. We have seen poorly maintained vehicles approach (and exceed) 300k miles with the original HG. We have heard of HG failures in '97 (the newest) models at 50k miles. We have had original owners with impeccable maintenance that had a failed HG. We have had original owners with impeccable maintenance and ADDED SUPERCHARGER with the original HG. The statistics are all over the place and (my opinion) is that it's another crap shoot. Yours may last and it may fail tomorrow and it may have nothing to do with prior maintenance.
The good news is that the repair job is well documented (thanks to Dougie, Landtank, and others) and you can DIY in a long weekend and ~$500 in parts. Many of us would recommend that you do the HG as PM if you are concerned about it. Personally, I am watching mine like a hawk (aftermarket temp gauge) and at the first signs of impending failure, the HG will be replaced. I may also do it as a PM this spring but I said that last spring too... so I dunno. Mine has 165k on it with the original HG.
I think this about covers 90% of the things that we discuss in this forum and I want to make a point at this time: It is unlikely that your vehicle will "suffer" from all of these issues. Even if it does, you can do everything yourself and the costs are not that bad.
-B-
I just spoke to Neil at Toyo Motors yesterday about getting some maintenance type stuff done on my rig. He seemed pretty knowledgeable and was super-nice.
I found him through another posting on here, and IIRC, they said that Toyo Motors was spendy, but worth it.
Pskhaat
Tourer
That was probably I. Toyo was honest with me and since it was a T&M job, stopped on the dime and called me to let me know progress and ask for next steps, etc. The guy there trouleshooted and did some custom electrical work for my 3FJ40, would use them again. No, they were not cheap :|
Don't mean to glom onto your thread Bill, but I'm kind of going through the same process right now.
Anyone know anything about Toyowest in Peoria?
I found two conflicting messages in the "Recommend a mechanic in your area" thread:
I tried to PM dtmdogz, but his box is full. The guy does only have 2 posts, so I don't know whether to trust his opinion or not.
Here's their site:
http://www.toyowest.com/
Anyone know anything about Toyowest in Peoria?
I found two conflicting messages in the "Recommend a mechanic in your area" thread:
vexx7001 said:
dtmdogz said:
I tried to PM dtmdogz, but his box is full. The guy does only have 2 posts, so I don't know whether to trust his opinion or not.
Here's their site:
http://www.toyowest.com/
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #13
Good to get as much feedback as possible.
It's all good grrlscout!!
Wondering how that guy got screwed for 12k?
I'm sure my cruiser is going to need some PM work done, but I hope it doesn't ever end up in the 12K range. I think first thing I'm going to fix is the PHH Perky Heater Hose. Then start digging around and look for any trouble.
I'll keep you all posted on any mechanics I decide to go to.
HAppy NeW YeAr !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
P.S. Never mix beer, and wine drinking in the same night. I learned a terrible lesson.
Bill
It's all good grrlscout!!
Wondering how that guy got screwed for 12k?
I'm sure my cruiser is going to need some PM work done, but I hope it doesn't ever end up in the 12K range. I think first thing I'm going to fix is the PHH Perky Heater Hose. Then start digging around and look for any trouble.
I'll keep you all posted on any mechanics I decide to go to.
HAppy NeW YeAr !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
P.S. Never mix beer, and wine drinking in the same night. I learned a terrible lesson.
Bill
I'll be very interested to hear your feedback. Looks like we're in the same part of town (I'm near I-17 and Happy Valley) and finding a mechanic up here has been a challenge. Fortunately most of my issues have been within my limited range of abilities to fix since I bought it in August, but I just threw a CEL and the power steering pump is leaking.
Ed
Ed
Just a quick update:
I never heard back from either of the guys (pro and con) about Toyowest in Peoria. So I decided to roll the dice and go pay them a visit.
Roger is a very nice guy, very knowledgeable. His crew gave the 62 a thorough once-over and an evaluation. It looks like they nailed all the expected stuff on the estimate, and even some wee little stuff I wouldn't think of looking for. The prices are a bit steep, but he is willing to use cdan parts -- which should shave some $$$ off.
So I think I'm going to give him a shot. I'll let you know how it turns out.
I never heard back from either of the guys (pro and con) about Toyowest in Peoria. So I decided to roll the dice and go pay them a visit.
Roger is a very nice guy, very knowledgeable. His crew gave the 62 a thorough once-over and an evaluation. It looks like they nailed all the expected stuff on the estimate, and even some wee little stuff I wouldn't think of looking for. The prices are a bit steep, but he is willing to use cdan parts -- which should shave some $$$ off.
So I think I'm going to give him a shot. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
I took my 89 to Toyo West back in 2002. I was not impressed. Brought in in for ruff idle. Got a three page list of everything they want to do. Wanted to change every part that might cause the ruff idle. Motor mounts, all kinds of things. The bill would have been around $3,500 if I would of had it done. One thing they list was that the antifreeze should of been red instead of green If I wanted to pay for every part I would just do it myself. Still have the ruff idle and it worse at 6900' elevation where it now lives. My guess is it might be a O2 sensor. Just over 121,000 miles and never been changed. I would not take my cruiser back there again, I just wanted the ruff idle fixed and they want to replace every little thing on the vehicle. Going on five years later and none of the things they wanted to replace has failed including the motor mounts.
John
If I wanted to pay for every part I would just do it myself. Still have the ruff idle and it worse at 6900' elevation where it now lives. My guess is it might be a O2 sensor. Just over 121,000 miles and never been changed. I would not take my cruiser back there again, I just wanted the ruff idle fixed and they want to replace every little thing on the vehicle. Going on five years later and none of the things they wanted to replace has failed including the motor mounts. John
I've been PM'd about Roger/Toyowest several times. I caution everyone to stay away!!! I went in for a leaky oil pan, a/c work, and a raditor. The raditor is the only thing that hasn't had to be redone because of shabby workmanship that Roger will NOT stand by. Just to give you an idea of this guys character, he charged me for R-12 which as we know is very $$$ and put R-123. This is a very small $$$ amount but it's just part of his principles or lack of. I just joined the CSC in Dec. I don't have a lot of time as I'm usually traveling for work etc... but if you post me I will do my best reply in a timely manner. The shop that I have had the best luck with is Toyonda or something like that at 480 491 5555, not a salesman attitude but a real honest and resonable guy. By the way he used to work for Roger. It's not just me that knows that Toyowest's workmanship is subpar.
Hmmm... thanks for the additional info. Maybe I need to go see Neil for a second opinion.
OK so I just took it to Toyomotors, and they gave me a completely different assessment!
I have no idea what to believe.
This sucks. :sad:
I have no idea what to believe.
This sucks. :sad:
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,205
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
Did they agree on anything, or are they both seeing different problems, making stuff up?
Postup the list of repairs from each shop. Have any of the members had a look at your truck, what did they say needed attention, repair?
