Mechanic in Phoenix?

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The only thing they agree on is that the brakes need attention, just to different extents:

Toyowest:
FRONT BRAKE JOB TOY: PERFORM COMPLETE FRONT BRAKE JOB RESURFACE ROTORS,
REPLACE FRONT BRAKE PADS, PACK FRONT WHEEL BEARING (4WD)LUBRICATE ALL
SLIDES INSPECT CALIPERS AND ALL HARDWARE AND RELATED COMPONETS.
FLUSH/BLEED BRAKE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM,INSPECT ALL BRAKE LINES AND HOSES, INSPECT ALL RELATED HYDRAULIC COMPONETS.

Toyomotors:
2 front rotors are too thin to turn and need to be replaced, pads all around, flush brake fluid, repack bearings, rear brakes are cracked and need to be replaced
 
grrlscout89FJ62 said:
Toyomotors:
2 front rotors are too thin to turn and need to be replaced,
Click to expand...

Based on my experience with disk bakes, and viewing yours up close and personal, there is no way they are too thin to turn unless they are taking a 1/4" off when they turn them. Didn't you have new rotors added less than 10,000 miles ago Cory?
 
Full Toyowest Recommendations (in no particular order):

TUNE-UP, PERFORM COMPLETE MINOR TUNE-UP REPLACE SPARKPLUGS, INSPECT ALL
DRIVEABILITY RELATED COMPONETS, ADJUST CURB IDLE SPEED AND IGNITION TIMING (IF APPLICABLE) PLUG, IRIDUM

REPLACE IGNITION CORD SET, INSPECT ALL ASSOCIATED COMPONETS WHILE APART. REPLACE DIST.CAP(S) ROTOR(S) AND WIRE(S)SET

PRESSURE FLUSH POWERSTEERING SYSTEM COMPLETE. INSPECTHIGH PRESSURE AND RETURN LINES AND HOSES.INSPECT ALL POWERSTEERING SYSTEM RELATED COMPONETS. COMPONETS FOR PROPER OPERATION. FLUSH, KIT P/S

THROTTLE BODY SERVICE: PERFORM COMPLETE THROTTLE BODY SERVICE,CLEAN ALL CARBON DEPOSITS ON THROTTLE BODY BUTTERFLY VALVE INSPECT ALL LINKAGE,CHECK THROTTLE POSTION SENSOR(s) INSPECT ALL RELATED COMPONETS FOR OPERATION.

REPLACED CRACKED SPLIT AIR BOOT WHILE APART

REPLACE FUEL FILTER ELEMENT,CHECK ALL LINES AND HOSES.

FRONT BRAKE JOB TOY: PERFORM COMPLETE FRONT BRAKE JOB RESURFACE ROTORS,

REPLACE FRONT BRAKE PADS, PACK FRONT WHEEL BEARING (4WD)LUBRICATE ALL SIDES INSPECT CALIPERS AND ALL HARDWARE AND RELATED COMPONENTS.

ADJUST VALVES REPLACE GASKET AND GROMMETS.

TRANSMISSION FLUID FLUSH:PERFORM COMPLETE TRANSMISSION FLUID

EXCHANGE PRESSURE FLUSH SYSTEM COMPLETE. INSPECT

COOLER LINES AND HOSES.INSPECT THROTTLE DETENT CABLE. ROADTEST VEHICLE FOR OPERATION.

SERVICE TRANSFERCASE ASSEMBLY, DRAIN AND REFILL ADD CONDITIONER.

FLUSH/BLEED BRAKE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM,INSPECT ALL BRAKE LINES AND HOSES, INSPECT

ALL RELATED HYDRAULIC COMPONETS.

BRAKE FLUID FLUSH

REPLACE OIL PRESSURE SWITCH, ASSEMBLY

POWER FLUSH COOLING SYSTEM ,INSPECT ALL BELTS HOSES, CHECK ALL RELATED

SYSTEM COMPONETS FOR PROPER OPERATION.PRESSURE TEST COOLING SYSTEM CHECK FOR POSSIBLE LEAKS.

REPLACE DRIVE BELT(s):REPLACE DRIVE BELT(s) INSPECT ALL PULLEYS AND ASSOCIATED COMPONETS.(INSPECT ALL PULLEYS, A/C BELT IS OFF INSTALL BELT AND CHECK SYSTEM

REPLACE SHIFTER BUSHINGS

REPLACE FRONT TRUNION SEALS, INSPECT BEARINGS WHILE APART, INCLUDE COMPLETE DISASSEMBLY OF FRONT AXLE ASSEMBLY RPLACEMENT OF ALL INNER AXLES

REPLACE ENGINE OIL PAN GASKET, INSPECT OIL PAN WHILE APART

SERVICE REAR DIFFERANTIAL ASSEMBLY DRAIN AND REFILL ADD CONDITIONER., SERVICE
BREATHER WHILE APART

REPLACE REAR MAIN OIL SEAL, REMOVE TRAMSMISSION ASSEMBLY TO REPLACE ENGINE
REAR MAIN OIL SEAL.INSPECT ALL ASSOCIATED COMPONETS WHILE APART.

REPLACE FRONT AND REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS,INSPECT ALL RELATED COMPONENTS
WHILE APART.

FRONT CRANKSHAFT SEAL:REPLACE FRONT CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL(WHILE APART)
 
FJ40LVR said:
Based on my experience with disk bakes, and viewing yours up close and personal, there is no way they are too thin to turn unless they are taking a 1/4" off when they turn them. Didn't you have new rotors added less than 10,000 miles ago Cory?
Click to expand...

That's what I'm screamin. :D

In Sept 05, I had the RF rotor replaced, and the LF rotor resurfaced.

I smell BS.
 
I'm worried too!!!

Sorry I haven't been on here for a while, been very busy. I did stop by and see Neil at Toyo Motors and he's going to be looking at my Cruiser on Tuesday. I'll let you all know how it goes. I hope things don't get too out of hand like I saw with your experience grrlscout. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you, and me grrl.
I did get an E-mail from Garie from Cruiserland Enterprises, and he recommended Toyota Specialists in Mesa, so I'm debating on going over there.
Bill,
>
>did i give you www.toyspecialistsaz.com info yet. 1121 South Wilbur
>Street, Suite #7 Mesa, Arizona 85210 480-969-3320
>
>His name is Vern.
>
>give me a call 623-451-2699 when you get a chance.
>
>garie chavez
>CRUISERLAND.com
>where FJ rocks

I should be able to give you all some kind of feedback by the weekend

Bill
 
I'll vouch for Vern too. He's been working on Toyota's since '72. He and his wife own the shop. Not the cleanest or in the best area of town, but he does excellent work and won't rip you off. They have no problem if you bring your own parts, most shops like you to buy parts though them so they can inflate the price.

This place stands by thier work. It was also cool to me when Vern finished the work he came into the waiting room, handed my the keys and said "Your 62 series is finished".
 
Living in the Past said:
I took my 89 to Toyo West back in 2002. I was not impressed. Brought in in for ruff idle. Got a three page list of everything they want to do. Wanted to change every part that might cause the ruff idle. Motor mounts, all kinds of things. The bill would have been around $3,500 if I would of had it done. One thing they list was that the antifreeze should of been red instead of green:confused: If I wanted to pay for every part I would just do it myself. Still have the ruff idle and it worse at 6900' elevation where it now lives. My guess is it might be a O2 sensor. Just over 121,000 miles and never been changed. I would not take my cruiser back there again, I just wanted the ruff idle fixed and they want to replace every little thing on the vehicle. Going on five years later and none of the things they wanted to replace has failed including the motor mounts.

John
Click to expand...

Did you ever try replacing the PCV valve? The 22RE in my 4Runner had a rough idle and this fixed it nicely. Just so happens the guy that fixed it has a 86 and 87 4Runners and knew what to do (oh and working for CB Toyota as a certified Toyota mech didn't hurt either).

Just .02...
 
grrlscout89FJ62 said:
Full Toyowest Recommendations (in no particular order):
Click to expand...

Well sure you COULD do all that... if needed but hmmm

What's the deal with the brakes? Pulling, surging, grinding, needing to pump the pedal to stop, squeaking, or???

Is it the brakes that started all this? Just wondering why all the work. Sure, if I brought in my 4Runner (85, 235000 miles) I'm sure they could find all kinds of things to "Inspect" :rolleyes:
 
msahr said:
Well sure you COULD do all that... if needed but hmmm

What's the deal with the brakes? Pulling, surging, grinding, needing to pump the pedal to stop, squeaking, or???

Is it the brakes that started all this? Just wondering why all the work. Sure, if I brought in my 4Runner (85, 235000 miles) I'm sure they could find all kinds of things to "Inspect" :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
It was two separate items that started the whole deal:

1) My brakes were due for new pads. So I took it to Midas, and they said my rotors were "pocked' and both needed to be replaced. I was like, waaaiiiit a minute -- I just had both of them worked on a year ago -- one replaced, one resurfaced. So I got a second and third opinion, and I still don't know exactly what's up. But I get the sneaking suspicion that the first shop didn't do what they said they did. I have an appt with them later today to hopefully sort this out once and for all.

2) I got the ultimatum from my SO: "get it reliable, or get rid of it." I took out a loan, and am trying to come up with a "to do" list of what can be done to get it to run better, and for longer. That's why I've been taking it to the toyo shops -- I just want some maintenance stuff done, and any repairs that are needed. It's last service was 70,000 miles ago, so it's definitely due. :o
 
If the TruckWerks wrenchin day happens and your willing to get dirty, skinned knuckles, broken nails, etc. Most of your list could be knocked out in one day. The front brakes are an easy deal. If the rears have pad thickness left I wouldn't worry about the heat checking, that happens in hot AZ weather, new ones will probably look the same shortly. Valve adj. tuneup is a couple of hour deal.
 
Tools R Us said:
If the TruckWerks wrenchin day happens and your willing to get dirty, skinned knuckles, broken nails, etc. Most of your list could be knocked out in one day. The front brakes are an easy deal. If the rears have pad thickness left I wouldn't worry about the heat checking, that happens in hot AZ weather, new ones will probably look the same shortly. Valve adj. tuneup is a couple of hour deal.
Click to expand...
Depending on what day that ends up happening, I do plan on going, if for anything to get done some of the namby-pamby BS that's been piling up.

Speaking of namby-pamby, that'll give me an excuse to finally invest in these suckers: :D

orig_pc.jpg


As for the rear pads, Toyowest said I had 5% all around (this was about 3 weeks ago). Toyomotors said my rear brakes are cracked and ready to fall off. :eek:

Again, I'm not really sure what to believe. :rolleyes:
 
Hey BMAN did you see those gloves... quite stylish!

grrlscout, if you go to wrenching day the brakes can be looked at in about 2 minutes. Front pads replaced in about the same time. Rotors are a "little" more complicated. You probably need to do a birf repack anyway!
 
I ordered my :princess: gloves yesterday! :bounce:

Here's the brakes update:

Yesterday I took it back to the shop that originally worked on them -- well, sort of. The original shop is in Cottonwood. Since I don't live there anymore, I went to the one in Glendale.

They took a look and did some measurements. The RF rotor came up as .765 -- Said they cannot be positive as to whether or not the RF rotor has been replaced, based on that measurement. But that the wear on the pads is signifcant, and they wore out much earlier than they should have. So, they are going to consider the right side covered by warranty, and turn the rotor and replace the pads at no cost to me.

Unfortunately, the LF rotor is down to .710, and needs to be replaced. He said he was mystified as to why they didn't replace it at the same time as the right. :doh:

AND the rear shoes are indeed cracked and need to be replaced, as Toyomotors said. I looked at 'em myself.

Total estimated cost for RF resurface, LF replace, pads, shoes, repack bearings = $328
 
grrlscout89FJ62 said:
...
Total estimated cost for RF resurface, LF replace, pads, shoes, repack bearings = $328
Click to expand...

Called BAP, my cost on the parts; Rotor $21.90, Pads VGX semi metallic $27.63 ceramic $29.95, front hub seals $2.26 ea., rear shoes $24.99. I have plenty of gaskets for the locking hubs, you will need grease for the bearings and a couple of cans of brake cleaner. I didn't ask about tune-up parts.

A tip before working on it; Put on work duds, grab the safety glasses, head to the parts store for a couple of cans of foamy engine cleaner. Go to the coin op carwash, in the parking lot spray the axle, hubs and anything that's dirty with the engine cleaner, allow to soak, spray again. Then clean everything, tires, axles, wheel wells, etc. in the carwash. Makes working in it much nicer if you get most of the muck off before you touch it and don't have debris falling from the wheel wells!:D
 
Hey Kevin don't you think both rotors should be replaced? I seem to remember that not doing rotors equally could be bad. It's an extra 21.90, seems like a good deal. How much to turn a rotor?
 
msahr said:
Hey Kevin don't you think both rotors should be replaced? I seem to remember that not doing rotors equally could be bad. It's an extra 21.90, seems like a good deal. How much to turn a rotor?
Click to expand...

I have rarely had issues from just replacing one. I never turn rotors unless they have an issue, just clean them up with a 3M wheel. When I was in the biz and had a brake lathe in the shop, I always turned all new rotors. They are almost never perfectly straight when bolted to the hub and a skin cut makes them right, if not they were returned for straighter ones.
 
OK, just wondering.
 
Tools R Us said:
Called BAP, my cost on the parts; Rotor $21.90, Pads VGX semi metallic $27.63 ceramic $29.95, front hub seals $2.26 ea., rear shoes $24.99.
Click to expand...

Thanks for doing that research. :) That certainly sounds much more reasonable -- price wise.

But I figure for an extra $150 or so, they can do it. If it goes south again, they can do it for free. :D And it's free up many many hours of my time.

I do hope to do some stuff at Wrenching Day. I don't want to say whether or not I can make it -- because everytime I do, something comes up and I can't go. So I'm not gonna jinx myself! :o

Plus, well, I'm waiting to hear back from the doc re:some medical issues with my hands. Hopefully it's just some transient pain. But if it's something more chronic, I might be benched for quite a while. :frown:

HOWEVER - I am confident that it is nothing like that. :D
 
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