That video shows it going over a few bumps, just from that, I would much rather take my cruiser in there than that thing.
May Long Weekend - May 16-18, 2009
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That video shows it going over a few bumps, just from that, I would much rather take my cruiser in there than that thing.
Im totally in what way we go in , getting the front and rear outputs on the T-case done . The rear is good , but those fronts loosen up regularly. found a good front D-shaft with good splines. Looking forward to getting some use out of this thing
Might not need it.
Sunny with daytime highs around 20*C in the Lillooet to Clinton area. I'd bring chains if they'd fit my truck. It'll be interesting following in the 36" swamper ruts.
Two weekends left to get the truck ready!
Sunny with daytime highs around 20*C in the Lillooet to Clinton area. I'd bring chains if they'd fit my truck. It'll be interesting following in the 36" swamper ruts.
Two weekends left to get the truck ready!
I am going to check the t-case output bearing pre-load evergy time I change the T-case oil (ever 2-years). I have the shims now to keep in factory tolerance. The bearing races for both bearings were really pitted, while all the other bearings were good, but were replaced as part of the kit.
Two weekends only, damn it's coming fast.
For the output seal, I've changed mine every year for the last 4 years, speady sleved it, shimmed it, everything, still leaks, I guess my next step is T-case rebuild. for now I just keep topping it up.
For the output seal, I've changed mine every year for the last 4 years, speady sleved it, shimmed it, everything, still leaks, I guess my next step is T-case rebuild. for now I just keep topping it up.
I think that the rear bearing per-load on those split cases should be checked every 24,000 km or maybe 48,000 km. If they are loose they 'wobble' and stress out the front as well as the rear bearing and races.
My rears are rock steady, its that dam front,
Glen, did you replace the bronze bushing in the high speed gear that spins on the t-case output shaft? When you have it all apart, you can check how much it walks/wobbles on the shaft by applying force at the outer circumfrence of the gear. If it moves enough, it will vibrate or load incorrectly and eat your fresh bearings. this will cause the leak at the seal and losen your preload. Had my worn bushing replaced with a lesser mililage part that was within the standard clearance as per the factory service manual. Pg. TF-19 of Toyota publication No. 36262E describes it as "check oil clearance of low and high gear"
You probably don't have as much milage on your truck as mine does and it may not require replacement. I have heard some horror stories in regards to JDM imports having the odometers rolled back so it could be more worn than you think.
After I O/H'd my T-case, the high pitched whine it emitted at hwy. speeds before was gone. Changed the gear oil after the first 1000km and added moly-slip to the new oil, and it's been great so far. Had my tranny overfill the t-case once, but I'm hoping it's due to my shift tower mods that had the shifter boot fitting more snug and over pressurizing the xmsn. I am currently monitoring the situation.
"all work preformed in accordance with the applicable airworthiness standards"
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That front shaft runs in the front bearing and I don't know how that front bearing pre-load is actually maintained. The rear shaft has a pilot bearing which hooks the two separate shafts in-line together (the rear shaft has two bearings for it) so maybe the back shaft provides preload through the two shafts to that front bearing through the pilot bearing?
Just because it seems tight at the rear I would still carefully check the rear pre-load. I used a nylon twine and an accurate fish scale. I think the shaft is about 1.375" in diameter (measure it), so say the bearing per-load should be 17 inch/pounds (new bearing says 13.0 to 21.4 in-lbs.) then if the radius is 0.6875” then make sure the shaft just starts to turn when you pull 25 lbs on the fish scale (17/0.6875). Add or remove shims behind bearing race to adjust. You will need a new gasket and staked nut.
If that is all good then I guess that front bearing is hooped.
OH man when will this end the front king pins are gone , these cruisers are not what they are supposed to be! Any ways I will have it back on the road today. I am going to save some money so I can replace that crappy split case, Time for an ORION 4 speed, I use my cruiser but I dont abuse it , and these parts are completely worn out at 147,000 km , How can parts that are well greased and lubricated wear out, that is BULL****!
That is a good way of doing it Glen,
That is a good way of doing it Glen,
20-year old trucks
Arron - remember these are 20-year old trucks and we sort of 'expect' them to perform as 'new".To make you feel better compare them a 20-year Jeep, which was probably scrapped 5-years ago. The ATEB policy replacing stuff that is outside of factory tolerance, still means stuff they check can be fairly worn and will still need replacement in a year or two. We are putting lots of kms on these rigs, under dirty conditions which will wear stuff out. That t-case from Alaska, could have been rebuilt when installed in your truck, because you have to dismantle quit a bit just to change the gears. I don't think the Orion fits our spline- only the Marlin Crawler, which requires cutting back the transmission output shaft, changing both drive shaft lengths. I thought about that but regular maintenance seems to eat up a lot of time as is.
Arron - remember these are 20-year old trucks and we sort of 'expect' them to perform as 'new".To make you feel better compare them a 20-year Jeep, which was probably scrapped 5-years ago. The ATEB policy replacing stuff that is outside of factory tolerance, still means stuff they check can be fairly worn and will still need replacement in a year or two. We are putting lots of kms on these rigs, under dirty conditions which will wear stuff out. That t-case from Alaska, could have been rebuilt when installed in your truck, because you have to dismantle quit a bit just to change the gears. I don't think the Orion fits our spline- only the Marlin Crawler, which requires cutting back the transmission output shaft, changing both drive shaft lengths. I thought about that but regular maintenance seems to eat up a lot of time as is.
MIKE , THAT worn out tranfer case looks like this,Ya an ORION will work but from what my friend in OREGON has one and he said stick with what I have,6000 miles when I got it from head to toe.OK I torqued the front , pretty good now . Outback does quite a bit but not the king pin bearings. I went over everything when they were prepping it at ATEB , I was happy for the dollar amount to what I got. Anyways my 74 is a keeper. If I would have gotten it privately or anywhere else I would not have gotten as far. Anyways it is all together went to ATEB for an allignment, Just John and Phillip now , It seems that one of the Tangs is a bad boy HMMMMM. I have greasable tie rods now . The last pic is what came out of it WTF is that burnt gear oil
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Fixin' and wheelin' go together like 'carrots and peas' -- to steal a line from Forest Gump. Anyway once we 'rocking and rolling' on the trail you will forget about what it took to get there.
I feel your pain guys. I've given up on having my 60 trail worthy for the long weekend. Too many things left to do and untested seems like asking for trouble. So I switched gears back to prepping the 40.
Need to adjust all four drums, fix a coolant seep on the thermostat housing, reassemble the rear springs, and maybe change the oil
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Need to adjust all four drums, fix a coolant seep on the thermostat housing, reassemble the rear springs, and maybe change the oil
.
I'm hoping to head up on the Friday morning, if my rig is trailworthy. I'm feeling a little insecure about the clutch action these days. I'm going to put the rig against a wall and see if the clutch slips. If it does, then the grandson will be mightily disappointed. I've been working every day on the bodywork rust, and that's under control - for now.
Here is a map of the way to Churn Creek. You just go past Clinton a few miles and the left turnoff is somewhere near the village of Chasm. After you cross the suspension bridge, the road goes uphill to the right, but at the top you have to head left (downstream), cross the little Churn Creek bridge, then the compsite is on the left by the river.
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