Master Cylinder Rebuild - DIY (1 Viewer)

[montegofd3s]

Can't thank you enough @Skidoo! I have been putting this off for a while, but finally did it today. I HAVE BRAKES AGAIN! It is crazy not having to double pump that pedal to stop properly, and to have real brake pressure instantly.....niiiiice! If you need to do this, don't be worried, just follow these institutions. It really isn't as hard or as scary as I made it out to be. Strange part is I had no issues with the abs warning. I bench bled the heck out of the MC before the install and then really bled the system good before taking it for a drive. I slid the truck in a dirt field a few times and brought it back for one more good bleed. The abs warning only activated when I was bleeding the rears. Feels great!

 

[Jody Highroller]

Is this THE solution thread for all things 1999-00 "ABS Light" AND "aural tone" _AND "No pressure at brake pedal" AND "No brakes" ?

I really do not have 2-4K for someone to rip me a new one.....

 

[Skidoo]

Is this THE solution thread for all things 1999-00 "ABS Light" AND "aural tone" _AND "No pressure at brake pedal" AND "No brakes" ?

No, it is not a fix for all issues, for example does not address accumulator pump failure.

 

[Jody Highroller]

My LC is indicating the following ABS Codes:
1. C0278 - Open or Short in circuit in ABS solenoid relay
2. C1252 - Hyd Boost Pump Motor Malfunction
3. C1253 - Hyd Boost Pump Motor Relay Malfunction
4. C1254 - Pressure Switch Malfunction

I am having troubling accepting these are not electrical signal path issues versus actual mechanical failures.

If Electrical composted are failing, seems to me that would cause pump and acumm failures to activate...

What about speed sensor corrosion, Skid ECU cold solders?

Just sank a couple about 2k in preventive maintenance and now this happens....FML (it's broke me)

 

[Jody Highroller]

Let me clarify - I first pulled the entire assembly which consists of the Master Cylinder, ABS ECU, Pump Motor and Actuator - oh, and the resevoir on top! When I first pulled the assembly out, I went with the Master Cylinder rebuild kit as recommended on this side - for only $47. The kit consist of a new piston that has fresh o-rings, etc. When I reinstalled, I was able to get some brake pressure after pumping the pedal the recommended 40 times - then you are supposed to turn the key to on and the pump motor is supposed to kick on and build pressure into the actuator that pressurizes the brake system. My motor would not come on. I pulled the assembly out again and bench tested the motor by using a 12 volt battery and some speaker wire to touch the contacts and the pump works fine wiht direct power. Hence, I am guessing the problem is with a sensor - maybe the resevoir fluid level sensor is not recognizing the fluid and telling the pump not to run so it wont burn out ... I just do not have the skill or patience to test the circuits out.

I decided to take it to the dealer and I asked my service writer to have the tech do some diagnostics. They then came back with "you need the whole assembly" as like transmissions, the dealer does not rebuild them the just drop in the entire unit which runs $2,400.

I got them to match an $1,800 price and they put it in and it runs fine now with no warning lights or alarm.

Hope this helps. I know this system is complicated with lots of electronics for ABS, etc. but you would think that the problem could be isolated so that if the fluid resevoir sensor is bad just put in a $100 resevoir with the built in sensor and its fixed.

Just my 2 cents.

I believe you've found the root cause. Just seems very much like circuitry and signaling issues. Meanwhile dealers and garages alike are ripping 100 series owners new ones.

 

[kgrove]

A few easy ones:
1) the part number and write-up were for I believe a 2000. Is there any significant difference for a 2007 Land Cruiser? is it the same part number for the rebuild kit?
2) How do I get at least the appropriate FSM pages for a 2007?

I'm mechanically inept and can't do this myself, but my buddy races cars and his mechanic is interested in taking a shot at this rebuild, but I'd like to give him all the right information.

 

[BrianJohn]

I am guessing one of the issues is not fully bleeding the system afterwards. The amount of bleeding is a lot more than rebuilding disc calipers. With caliper rebuild the air in system is at end of lines. With master cylinder rebuild, it is at beginning of system so have to push fluid out of lines and calipers to get air from master cylinder out. For the rear it takes a while before air even shows up, as fluid in long rear lines is pushed out.

I had a rebuild done. The warning lights and buzzer are now off, but after driving it for a few miles I get a wheezing sound. I am not sure if it's coming from the cylinder or accumulator. The ABS and Brake lights will briefly flash on and off periodically, but I still have breaking power. Is this likely a bleeding issue? Thanks!!

 

[montegofd3s]

^ Good chance, I would try to bleed the hell out of them again.

 

[NicB]

Hi guys, I noticed my brake master is leaking and I am also experiencing a "catch" in the brake pedal on the first depression after the vehicle has sat for a while (like over night). I am willing to get the kit and try this myself, but I am concerned about being able to bleed the system after. If I will need Toyota to do a "full bleed", will I be able to at least restore enough brake power to drive to the dealership?

Also, if Toyota sells the repair kit, why will they not perform the rebuild? Has anyone had success getting them to do the repair, and if so, how much did they charge?

Thanks!
NicB

 

[montegofd3s]

I was able to do it myself (using my pops leg for the pedal). I used a LOT of fluid. Found a dirt field a block away and did a couple of 20mph hard breaking stops, then repeated this process 3x's. Mine seemed fine for the past 10k miles.

 

[Eliot]

Hi guys, I noticed my brake master is leaking and I am also experiencing a "catch" in the brake pedal on the first depression after the vehicle has sat for a while (like over night). I am willing to get the kit and try this myself, but I am concerned about being able to bleed the system after. If I will need Toyota to do a "full bleed", will I be able to at least restore enough brake power to drive to the dealership?

Also, if Toyota sells the repair kit, why will they not perform the rebuild? Has anyone had success getting them to do the repair, and if so, how much did they charge?

Thanks!
NicB

Bleeding the brakes is very straight forward on this vehicle. i was able to do it in 20 minutes with a friend helping me. Just make sure the reservoir always has fluid in it. I top it off after bleeding each caliper. If not you'll suck air into the system and you'll have to start the process over again.

I'm not sure why Toyota won't perform the rebuild. I'd say it's probably for liability reasons. They prefer to just put a brand new booster assembly in rather than mess with all the variables that could cause the system to fail. This repair is also very straight forward. It can be done in 2-3 hours if you don't run into any issues.

How do you know the master cylinder is leaking? Do you have fluid on the floor boards?

 

[NicB]

Bleeding the brakes is very straight forward on this vehicle. i was able to do it in 20 minutes with a friend helping me. Just make sure the reservoir always has fluid in it. I top it off after bleeding each caliper. If not you'll suck air into the system and you'll have to start the process over again.

I'm not sure why Toyota won't perform the rebuild. I'd say it's probably for liability reasons. They prefer to just put a brand new booster assembly in rather than mess with all the variables that could cause the system to fail. This repair is also very straight forward. It can be done in 2-3 hours if you don't run into any issues.

How do you know the master cylinder is leaking? Do you have fluid on the floor boards?

No, I can see it coming down the frame rail and eating the coating. I believe the rubber grommets on the underside of the tank are bad. Not sure where else it would leak from. Thoughts?

 

[00cruizer]

I'm having the symptoms of master cylinder failure & had brought to local dealer to be sure. They confirmed there was a problem but had a hard time finding why. Come to conclusion master cylinder was leaking & quoted me for 3709.05 for part & 3.5 hr (59.95/hr) to fix. Long story short... still broken. Looking into this & thanks for sharing!

 

[Eliot]

I'm having the symptoms of master cylinder failure & had brought to local dealer to be sure. They confirmed there was a problem but had a hard time finding why. Come to conclusion master cylinder was leaking & quoted me for 3709.05 for part & 3.5 hr (59.95/hr) to fix. Long story short... still broken. Looking into this & thanks for sharing!

Yikes...Sounds like they want to replace the entire brake pump assembly. That would include the housing, and booster pump. This is a typical fix for a shop. Problem with brakes?...Just replace the whole assembly and move on. There's no way you need the entire assembly. There are plenty of good posts in this thread that should help you diagnose the exact issue. Can you start by providing more information about what you are seeing/hearing/experiencing? Pics help too.

 

[00cruizer]

My brake issues are: takes pushing petal far & hard for minimal response & 2nd pump often needed (much like others on this thread have noted). No noises and rotors/pads are less than 1.5yrs old with lots-o-life. Fluid levels normal too. Thinking of having fluid changed out so at least it'll be fresh & clean if I got to do. This.

 

[abuck99]

Has anyone noticed the reservoir seems to wobble a bit when you touch it. Its not very rigid as it sits atop the booster assy.

 

[Eliot]

My brake issues are: takes pushing petal far & hard for minimal response & 2nd pump often needed (much like others on this thread have noted). No noises and rotors/pads are less than 1.5yrs old with lots-o-life. Fluid levels normal too. Thinking of having fluid changed out so at least it'll be fresh & clean if I got to do. This.

Go to post #105 that I made on this thread (Page 6). The adjustment that i noted fixed my spongy pedal that also required double pumping to get full brakes. Be careful with adjustment as you can put too much pressure in the housing and then brakes will always be applied. If you mess with it for 30 minutes or so you should be able to find a happy medium where you have good pedal pressure and brakes only when the pedal is applied. This adjustment requires a 14mm wrench, some needle nose pliers and about 2-3 beers worth of time.

 

[00cruizer]

Great, thanks & I'll look into it this weekend and update with results.

 

[2001LC]

Has anyone noticed the reservoir seems to wobble a bit when you touch it. Its not very rigid as it sits atop the booster assy.

Yes they do!

 

[abuck99]

Thanks Paul-

I checked the 2 screws in the back that hold it in place and the (one that I could get to) was tight. Reservoir seems to have some play independent of the mounting screws.