So you are 9 hours from me. If I make the drive, will you help me install? 
Marlin T-Case Gear Install (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter akarilo
- Start date
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So you are 9 hours from me. If I make the drive, will you help me install?
Sure he will.
Nope. 2.3 x 2.3 = ~ 5:1 reduction for a 22r xfer.
The marlin gears are about 3.1:1 iirc vs stock at 2.5:1 so not even close.
That said, its more like going from stock 4.1 final gears to 4.88 or 5.29 finals, according to the math.
I'm hoping somebody will make 4:1 xfer gears with the ~10% reduction on the high range gears like they do with samurai and 60-series gears. Not holding my breath though.
Akarilo and anyone else who dropped the whole T-Case, did you guys shift into Low Range and make sure the center diff was locked before dropping the case? Also, how did you end up supporting the Engine/Transmission after removing the stock crossmember? I'm planning on trying to do this install this weekend or next, looking for some guidance.
Thanks,
Thanks,
inkpot
SILVER Star
We have done 5 or 6 of these gear sets. Have left the case in the truck on all of them. Not that hard to do, even with bad shoulders and trifocals. John
I'm with you, the job is a piece of cake with the case in the truck.
Dropping the cross member using some long bolts helps a lot when doing it in the vehicle.
Can't you just drop the cross member altogether and support the Trans oil pan with a block like the FSM shows? Can you explain why the bolts help?
Sure you could use the FSM way but now you have a block in your way under the vehicle holding the drivetrain up. By using long bolts on the cross member you are supporting the drivetrain and nothing is way leaving the floor clear under the vehicle.
On lowering the TC:
I removed my skid plate with integral cross-member and supported the trans with a heavy ratchet strap.
On removing the TC or leaving it in:
I currently have my TC all torn apart but cant get that f'in motor actuator off. The 4 bolts were easy. I was even able to hold my brass hammer against it and hit it with another hammer. That sucker won't budge. I'm thinking my next move is to remove the TC.
I removed my skid plate with integral cross-member and supported the trans with a heavy ratchet strap.
On removing the TC or leaving it in:
I currently have my TC all torn apart but cant get that f'in motor actuator off. The 4 bolts were easy. I was even able to hold my brass hammer against it and hit it with another hammer. That sucker won't budge. I'm thinking my next move is to remove the TC.
First i used a razor knife to try and cut around the existinf FIPG. Then, I beat mine with a rubber mallet on several different sides until it loosened. After that, I used a small screwdriver to pry gently. If it makes you feel better, there is no gear oil in that section so if you scuff up the sealing surface a bit I don't think it's critical. On top of that you have to FIPG it back together.
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good tip phil, how long of bolts did you use? guessing I can just pull one and go buy some at the hardware store that are longer
Cant remember but the head is close to the firewall. If I was to guess I would say I dropped it 2".
thanks for the tips...i've had my gears for a couple years waiting to go in, along with the spool for the part time. someday....
