Maintenance...Water Pump, T-Stat, Oil Cooler, Flush Engine/Radiator, now head-gasket blown :( (2 Viewers)

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Actually it's a very smart thing to set a time when an engine reaches a given mileage and start taking things apart. In the aircraft world these items are called time change items. When they reach a certain hour flight time they are automatically changed. Also the aircraft is involved in Phase dock where deer crab goes in the face. And all the components the large components are taken apart and inspected for corrosion and cracks and so on. Also do a spin test on all the bearings such as idle tensioner. Water pump. I wouldn't use the test for the alternator because rotor has mass behind it so it's really hard to tell if the bearing is dry or not. But if the tensioner rotates more than three-quarters or just spins freely in the bearings are dry there's no grease dragging the ball bearings.

Point taken...but in the aircraft world IF something critical fails you don't get to call a tow truck. ;) Hence the stricter need for maintenance/inspections.

My Brother (a pilot) says its all about achieving "an equal number of take-offs and landings"
 
Replaced my Cranks Seal yesterday (front) and figured I'd better do the Oil Pump Cover as well. Since I already had my radiator out...there was plenty of room to work in there. Borrowing from 'Otramm's excellent advice...I got the correct #3 JIS bit to fit the screw heads and then used his procedure. All 7 screws came out with a nary a problem.

Make sure the slots in the screws are clean then 'tap' the bit into place:

OPCRemoval1.jpg


Next (important) use a small impact to break the screws free (less chance of damaging a screw head).

OPCRemoval2.jpg


Wipe down the cover and inspect the back of it (inside) for any wear that might have occurred (contact with gear).

OPCRemoval3.jpg

OPCRemoval4.jpg
 
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When replacing the Oil Cover Seal (O-ring) use something a bit 'tacky' to hold it in place. Once you position the cover in place and start your first screw be careful not to LIFT the cover or you'll likely dislodge the seal and have to start over.

Oil Pump Cover04.jpg

Oil Pump Cover03.jpg


IF your Cruiser still has the 'Idler' install it and snug it down (it also applies pressure to the cover).

Oil Pump Cover02.jpg

Oil Pump Cover01.jpg
 
One thing I wouldn't do (again) is spend any time trying to straighten up the fins on the Transmission Oil Cooler.

Over the years mine has suffered damage from rocks and collisions with Mockingbirds. I live out in the country and the Mockingbirds will sit on fence-lines late in the evening (almost dark). As vehicles come by with their headlights on...the Mockingbirds will swoop down and catch insects that they see in the lights. Most of the time....they get away with it, but sometimes not. And a Mockingbird going into your grill at 60 mph...is going to bend some fins, just is.

Anyway, I spent about an hour with a pick and small screwdriver trying to straighten some of the damage, but I doubt it will make one bit of difference. My Trans has always run cool anyway, so I'll just replace the cooler with something else if it ever becomes an issue.


Trans cooler1.jpg


Trans cooler2.jpg
 
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Which radiator are you using?

In addition to insulating the wiring harness, insulate the EGR pipe with header wrap. I decided that because the factory thermal insulation around the wiring harness was clearly inadequate (burned through), I would try to minimize the acute heat source as well.
 
Which radiator are you using?
In addition to insulating the wiring harness, insulate the EGR pipe with header wrap. I decided that because the factory thermal insulation around the wiring harness was clearly inadequate (burned through), I would try to minimize the acute heat source as well.

^^^^^
Radiator:

CSF 2517 radiator.JPG


EGR pipe will be eliminated on mine, it's not going back on. I will block off. We don't have emissions testing/inspection where I am.
 
Trying to address some oil leaks on my engine while doing the head-gasket job. Not sure how much the Oil Level Sensor was leaking but I wanted to pull it, clean it up and install a new gasket.


OL1.jpg


When cleaning the unit...be careful around the 'float'. It is the only part of the unit that is somewhat delicate.

OL2.jpg


Your old gasket/seal will more than likely be hard and difficult to remove, so be prepared for that.

OL4.jpg


The Oil Level Sensor is held in place by 4 bolts (10mm heads) but they also have #3 JIS slots. So they can be removed either way.

OL3.jpg


Now if I can just find the part number for a replacement connector.

Edit: ( 90980-11235 - Connector for oil level sensor X 1 and 82998-12440 - Terminal Repair X 2)
 
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Got to looking around a various hoses (while they are semi-easy to reach) and noticed that my Coolant 'T' was all brown looking. Being plastic....that is normally a sign that they have degenerated. So... got a metal one to replace it. I don't imagine the hoses are going to come off without a fight, so there might be another order going out to WitsEnd.


^^^^^

Edit: Well...upon closer inspection I found the reason my 'T' was brown looking is because its BRASS not plastic as first thought. So I didn't have to mess with that at all. On to something else.
 
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Going to spend some time cleaning up the Block 'deck' today. I've been putting this off because I see it isn't going to be any fun.

Chasing the Head Bolt threads first and getting them oiled down, will give them a final cleaning just before I reinstall the head but there is a lot work to do to the deck and piston tops. Not going to enjoy this. Oh well...........

Tap size is M11x1.25 for anyone interested.

Block Prep2.jpg
Block Prep1.jpg
 
I bought Motor Mounts several years ago but never got around to putting them in. I don't know the shape my original ones are in, really haven't looked at them. But I'm guessing this would be the ideal time to put new ones in?

I have the fan, fan shroud and radiator out of the vehicle and the exhaust manifolds are disconnected and removed. Head is still off the engine. So...I should be able to either jack up the engine from underneath or find something to grab onto from above with my engine hoist. I suppose a person installs these one side at a time?
 
I bought Motor Mounts several years ago but never got around to putting them in. I don't know the shape my original ones are in, really haven't looked at them. But I'm guessing this would be the ideal time to put new ones in?

I have the fan, fan shroud and radiator out of the vehicle and the exhaust manifolds are disconnected and removed. Head is still off the engine. So...I should be able to either jack up the engine from underneath or find something to grab onto from above with my engine hoist. I suppose a person installs these one side at a time?

Judging by every other part you've removed so far, your motor mounts probably look new!! Haha.
 
Judging by every other part you've removed so far, your motor mounts probably look new!! Haha.

👍
Possibly, but they are 23 years old and I've had some oil leaks that allowed oil to get on the drivers side mount. Rubber products having a 'life span' to begin with and then oil getting on it doesn't help. I have the parts in hand...might as well put them on, but yes...the old one's could still be serviceable. Guess I'll find out in the next day or two.
 
Rear Bearing for alternator showed up today (Koyo), so I pulled the old one, installed the new and got everything buttoned back up. If you don't need to do a complete 'tear down' on your alternator...then don't, but IF you do, its not very complicated.

One caution though, be careful not to damage the phenolic end on the rear rotor shaft or you'll have to repair it as I did. :frown:

I have pictures of the alternator in various stages of reassembly if anyone needs them when you do yours, let me know.

Koyo Rear Bearing:

Alt20.jpg


All refreshed:

Rebuild11.jpg
 
I'd recommend the rear heater delete while you're in there.
 
I'd recommend the rear heater delete while you're in there.


For what purpose? I actually use my rear heater more than the front. We typically have mild winters where I am and I find that turning on the rear heater on 'low' keeps the vehicle at a nice temperature and doesn't blow hot air right on your face as you're driving. If your reasoning is based on hoses being old (I can replace those) or rust concerns (we don't have rust here) it just doesn't apply in my case.
 
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For what purpose? I actually use my rear heater more than the front. We typically have mild winters where I am and I find that turning on the rear heater on 'low' keeps the vehicle at a nice temperature and doesn't blow hot air right on your face as you're driving. If your reasoning is based on hoses being old (I can replace those) or rust concerns (we don't have rust here) it just doesn't apply in my case.
Well if you use it, then disregard. The benefit I like is that it eliminates a few more possible leak points.
 
Well if you use it, then disregard. The benefit I like is that it eliminates a few more possible leak points.

Understand....and in areas of the country where they salt the roads I can imagine it would be a smart thing to delete (provided you don't use it). Good tip.
 
I found replacing the motor mounts kind of hairy. Yes, I did one at a time and jacked up each side of the engine individually by putting the jack off center to the side I wanted to replace the mount on. Man, I didn't like the feeling of my fingers being in there on the mount and bolts as I was removing and installing them. It didn't seem like there was a great way to do it without putting my fingers at risk.
If I had it to do over again (motor mount job), I would remove my front wheels and lower the truck to sit lower than it does on 33's with my 2.5" lift, resting the truck on jack stands such that I could still get under it, but it wasn't so high. The reason being that I had to jack the engine way, way up to get the motor mounts out. It just felt precarious, and I didn't like it one bit. I should have slowed down and reevaluated, because it made me nervous the whole time.
It sounds like you are taking your time and have good systems in place, so I don't expect you'd do it the way I did. Maybe you could tell us how you do the mounts in a better/safer way.
Cheers, keep up the good work. And thanks for the all the good notes and well labeled photos.
 

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