Maintenance...Water Pump, T-Stat, Oil Cooler, Flush Engine/Radiator, now head-gasket blown :( (1 Viewer)

[flintknapper]

I found replacing the motor mounts kind of hairy. Yes, I did one at a time and jacked up each side of the engine individually by putting the jack off center to the side I wanted to replace the mount on. Man, I didn't like the feeling of my fingers being in there on the mount and bolts as I was removing and installing them. It didn't seem like there was a great way to do it without putting my fingers at risk.
If I had it to do over again (motor mount job), I would remove my front wheels and lower the truck to sit lower than it does on 33's with my 2.5" lift, resting the truck on jack stands such that I could still get under it, but it wasn't so high. The reason being that I had to jack the engine way, way up to get the motor mounts out. It just felt precarious, and I didn't like it one bit. I should have slowed down and reevaluated, because it made me nervous the whole time.
It sounds like you are taking your time and have good systems in place, so I don't expect you'd do it the way I did. Maybe you could tell us how you do the mounts in a better/safer way.
Cheers, keep up the good work. And thanks for the all the good notes and well labeled photos.

Probably tackle this tomorrow sometime. Where safety is concerned (and this sounds like one of those times) I like redundancies.

I have floor Jacks, Bottle Jacks, Transmission Jack, Engine hoist, jack stands, etc....so some combination of those should allow me to lift and secure the engine. It's just me working on the vehicle and IF I were to become trapped for any reason, my Wife would never know it...since I am a good 75 yds from the house. And even if she did hear me....there is no guarantee she would help get me out.

Are you guys loosening the Transmission mount before jacking up the engine?

 

[ccslider]

Probably tackle this tomorrow sometime. Where safety is concerned (and this sounds like one of those times) I like redundancies.

I have floor Jacks, Bottle Jacks, Transmission Jack, Engine hoist, jack stands, etc....so some combination of those should allow me to lift and secure the engine. It's just me working on the vehicle and IF I were to become trapped for any reason, my Wife would never know it...since I am a good 75 yds from the house. And even if she did hear me....there is no guarantee she help get me out.

Are you guys loosening the Transmission mount before jacking up the engine?

Engine hoist with safety jackstand is the way to go

 

[flintknapper]

Engine hoist with safety jackstand is the way to go

Got one side done (passenger side). Holy Moley.....I am dreading the other side.

I did use my engine hoist. Looked like the easiest thing to do would be to just hook to the Motor Mount Bracket that is attached to the block:

After you've lifted the engine so much that it is lifting the entire front end...there will be JUST enough room to wiggle the old the Motor Mount out (but barely):

Check to see that the threads on the new mount are in good shape. You don't want any surprises after you've tussled with it trying to get it back IN.

IF you're going to clean up the Mounting Plates, do it now. Not necessary, but I don't like reinstalling dirty parts:

Toyota made the parts so that they are pretty much Monkey Proof. They have locating tabs and will only fit one way, but Lord WHY....do they have to make everything so tight quartered!

Finally got the darn thing in. NOT doing the other side today. I'm going to go get a cold beer and mow the lawn. Dreading the driver's side, it is MUCH more difficult to reach.

 

[ccslider]

Did you try to undo the mount bracket from the block? I have to change mine soon so I'm curious.

 

[flintknapper]

Did you try to undo the mount bracket from the block? I have to change mine soon so I'm curious.

No...since that was the point at which I was lifting the engine. It appears as if loosening those bolts would help to align the Motor Mount as you slowly lower the engine however. It's quite a struggle for one person to get everything in place. I bet I re-positioned mine a dozen times....(and the passenger side is the 'easy' one).

Actually...I was just about to give up for the day when it all slipped into place for no apparent reason.

I'm thinking my Land Cruiser might be 'female' and that it will relent when it gets Damn good and Ready. I have no other explanation for why it suddenly worked. Definitely leave both the top and bottom studs 'loose'. If you try to put the Motor Mount in place and tighten it down (to either the bracket or frame mount first) it's just not going to line up. It would be a miracle if it did. The chances of that happening are 'Slim to none' and I heard 'Slim' just left town.

 

[flintknapper]

I examined my Passenger Side Motor Mount and it did not look bad at all. But the Driver's side mount has an obvious crack in the rubber at the top...so will need to come out.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Oddly, after over 40 years of wrenching and never putting in a single motor mount, I've put them in two of my vehicles in the last year. In both cases, it was an immediate and gratifying improvement, so you'll be happy you did this. For safety, I found ways to prop up the engines on each side in turn with a wooden wedge so I didn't have those "heebie jeebies" when putting my hands up there. I wanted a positive solid thing jammed in there but I also used the engine hoist up top.

 

[flintknapper]

Oddly, after over 40 years of wrenching and never putting in a single motor mount, I've put them in two of my vehicles in the last year. In both cases, it was an immediate and gratifying improvement, so you'll be happy you did this. For safety, I found ways to prop up the engines on each side in turn with a wooden wedge so I didn't have those "heebie jeebies" when putting my hands up there. I wanted a positive solid thing jammed in there but I also used the engine hoist up top.

Yes, even lifted with a hoist and supported underneath with a jackstand and wood, it still gives me the 'Willies' putting my hand in there.

 

[rolliges]

Is "Willies" the feeling you get when driving a Jeep?

 

[flintknapper]

Is "Willies" the feeling you get when driving a Jeep?

No....that would be 'Willys'


What I am talking about is: (colloquial, with "the") A feeling of nervousness or fear. Staying in the haunted house gave me the willies.

 

[flintknapper]

Got the Driver's side mount out this morning. And again got the 'Willies' reaching in there.

I loosened the mount at the transmission and made sure the passenger side mount was as loose as I could leave it, but it didn't seem to buy me anything. I believe loosening the metal mount that attaches to the engine block itself would help, but since I am using that to lift with....it wasn't an option for me.

One thing I noticed...is the studs on the Motor Mounts are somewhat longer than they really need to be....so the first thing I did for the drivers side mount (I haven't yet installed it) is cut about 3/16" off the length of each stud.

I think the 3/8" that buys me will be just enough to make fitting it in place not such an arduous ordeal. I had to use a pry bar from underneath the vehicle to compress the old motor mount in order to get it out. The engine just would not lift any higher and the lower stud lacked about 1/8" of clearing the frame mount.

So....I will report back once I've gotten the new one in on that side. It won't be today though.

My passenger side old mount looked fine, but the driver's side had separations on two sides. I doubt the passenger side on these vehicles ever separates, but the rubber is old and it should be replaced on that basis alone.

 

[flintknapper]

OK.....I sucked it up and went back out there. Got the driver's side Motor Mount in. Cutting a small amount of length off of each stud DID help when putting the new one in place...but it's still no Cake Walk.

What I learned about replacing Motor Mounts is that there doesn't seem to be an 'easy' way to do it. Having said that, I did NOT loosen the brackets that bolt to the engine block. Perhaps that would allow for a less 'trying' installation....IDK. I used my engine hoist, attached to the brackets to lift the engine....so I couldn't loosen them anyway.

This is not a job that is 'tool dependent'. There is no magical tool that will make any difference. Anything you have that will let you get on the nuts and bolts will do and I recommend you have some type of pry bar to help position the mounts when they are 'almost' in place.

The challenge is getting the mount between the engine bracket and frame mounting surface. Once you get one of the studs in, then you can freely move the mount around. The next issue is lining up the second stud and both locating tabs. This is where a pry bar and small brass hammer are useful.

It's just not an easy job, no two ways about it. So depending on your temperament....it might be a job you'd want someone else to do. IF you elect to do it yourself....please take every precaution and make sure your set up is SAFE. You could very easily lose a couple of fingers doing this job if something were to fail.

 

[bicycleagent003]

This echoes my experience - replacing the motor mounts is a tough and dangerous job. Things can be done to reduce the challenge and risk (good job to @flintknapper on both scores), but it kind of sucks any way you look at it.
Keep up the good work, I can't wait to read that your motor is purring again.

 

[aclos3]

I've been thinking about doing my motor mounts -- at 23 years old they've just got to be getting ready. I have a 1965 mustang with an inline 6 and replacing the motor mounts on that vehicle (I've had to do it twice in 18 years) takes a about fives minutes (just a floor jack to lift the side of the engine up). I think I may pay someone to do the FJZ80 mounts when the time comes because I do not have an engine hoist. Was it possible to inspect the mounts while they were in the vehicle, or could you only see that damage once you had the mount out?

Also, I am happy to hear that you kept your rear heat. My rear heater had some rusty pipes and I did a lot of research here about fixing them and most of what I could find were people discussing bypassing the rear heat completely. I really like having rear heat -- it is useful for drying out wet gloves or clothing, helps keep rear passengers warm etc. I ended up replacing the factory pipe assembly at the rear (it was in sad shape) and all of the related hoses and clamps. I did not replace the other pipe assembly that leads down along the firewall near the transmission tunnel, but that will be easy to bypass with heater hose if/when the time comes.

 

[flintknapper]

Was it possible to inspect the mounts while they were in the vehicle, or could you only see that damage once you had the mount out?

^^^^
It was with 'mine'. With a good flashlight and the right angle (underneath the vehicle). Depending on where (and how much) any separation/cracking exists....you might see it, or not.

My Driver's side had cracks that I could see even before removing it. I had also developed a slight vibration at idle that I had not had before. When I first got the vehicle (over 20 years ago) I could put a glass of water on the hood and it would hardly make a ripple.

All rubber products on our vehicles have aged to one degree or another and are worth evaluating. Your passenger side will probably be O.K. but I'll bet your driver's side isn't so good.

 

[flintknapper]

Waiting on parts. So figured I'd go ahead and get some of the Valves put back in the head.

Got all the exhaust Valves installed, then quit on that project...since it's kind of tedious.

Placing the valves back in valve guides is easy enough, checking to see that ALL your Valve Spring seats are in the head...no problem. Putting the Valve Springs and Retainers in place is certainly easy...BUT getting all those 'keepers' in position will try your patience.

Maybe those more dexterous than this Old Man...wouldn't find it so frustrating. The keepers are small, my hands (paws) are large and old. Not a good combination. After dropping several off the end of my magnetized pick, I knew I had to find a better way.

So...I took a small pocket screwdriver and bent the tip of it to about 30°.

Then I got some assembly 'goo' (grease or anything sort of tacky will work) and put a small dab on the inside of each keeper. When you are ready to pick one up...dip your screwdriver tip into your grease/other and touch it to the outside of the keeper:

Once you have the Valve Spring compressed (Spring not shown below so you can see the angle you would need) then feed the keepers onto the Valve Stem and slowly release the Valve Spring Compressor.

Then if all goes well....you end up with keepers on the Valve Stem and NOT on the floor. (now just 46 more to go).

 

[flintknapper]

Not wanting to do any more Valves today, but not ready to 'go to the house' either.... I decided to do a little project I've had on my mind for awhile. Seems every 4-5 years I develop an oil leak at my distributor. It's the O-Ring of course. Not a huge deal to pluck the Dizzy and replace the O-Ring...but it's annoying to me.

Invariably the O-ring has either flattened out, gotten hard (or both) and is letting oil pass by. I have looked around for an O-ring of similar size that is oil and heat resistant (McMaster-Carr has a lot) but the Durometer of the one's I've found have been either too hard or soft.

So....just staying with the 'Toyota' one seemed the best thing to do. But I figured there's nothing stopping me from putting TWO O-rings in there. Yeah....I know, you're thinking...but Flint why? I don't really have a good answer for that, I'll just say...."I'm retired, I have the time, and I can".

So IF I live another 5 years I'll know if it did any good. Not recommending other's do this (just change the damn O-Ring). Sometimes I just feel like something novel.

 

[jpoole]

This tickles my brain and brings a smile to my face. Thanks!

 

[NorCalFJ100]

Not wanting to do any more Valves today, but not ready to 'go to the house' either.... I decided to do a little project I've had on my mind for awhile. Seems every 4-5 years I develop an oil leak at my distributor. It's the O-Ring of course. Not a huge deal to pluck the Dizzy and replace the O-Ring...but it's annoying to me.

Invariably the O-ring has either flattened out, gotten hard (or both) and is letting oil pass by. I have looked around for an O-ring of similar size that is oil and heat resistant (McMaster-Carr has a lot) but the Durometer of the one's I've found have been either too hard or soft.

So....just staying with the 'Toyota' one seemed the best thing to do. But there's nothing stopping me from putting TWO O-rings in there. Yeah....I know, you're thinking...but Flint why? I don't really have a good answer for that, I'll just say...."I'm retired, I have the time, and I can".

So IF I live another 5 years I'll know if it did any good. Not recommending other's do this (just change the damn O-Ring). Sometimes I just feel like something novel.

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Desperation is the mother of all invention! You may have found a fantastic solution!

Did you use a lathe to make that cut?

 

[flintknapper]

Desperation is the mother of all invention! You may have found a fantastic solution!

Did you use a lathe to make that cut?

Actually, I hand filed it. Took it into town to a machine shop and they wanted $200.00 minimum to cut the groove in it. I 'passed' on that.

I fashioned a 'guide' out of a 1-1/4" PVC adapter that would slip over the shaft and butt up against the base. That way...I could get a good straight groove started. Once I had a shoulder established I used a round file to 'hog' out most of the material (it cuts the fastest), then clean up the edges (make the slot square) using the edge of a regular file.

Took me maybe an hour. Getting the 'depth' consistent is the only challenge. I finished it up using a thin strip of crocus cloth I cut into narrow pieces. Using it where needed (in a back and forth sawing motion) to even up the depth.