Ditto; water can get in via the speakers if the cone is torn IME. FWIW there are "hats" that are used to decrease ??harmonics from speakers inside doors ie: the sound bouncing around inside the door cavity. Those "hats" can also be used to shield the portion of the speakers that's poking into the door cavity, either intact (whole) or cut in half ie: to act like a roof over the speaker cone/magnet.
The vapor (water) barrier is another common cause of leaks into the cabin if it is not intact. Any rips/tears/hole can be repaired with clear vinyl tape.
For water getting in around door or belt molding clips I've taken a small button of butyl rubber rope/tape and placed it over the hole. A couple ways to do it,
either remove the molding, clean up that area, address any signs of rust, the push a very small button of butyle rubber into the hole(s) before reinstalling the molding. Emphasis on very small button, too much and it will squeeze out from under molding which then needs to be cleaned off, can make a mess.
Or, a quickie fix, push a botton of butyl rubber over the clip from the inside ie; for the cargo area, remove the side panels, look up into the top of that area
to see all the clips holding the molding in place (helps to take photos to find the leak as there may be stains), then press the button over the clip(s).
IME water from the quarter panel window molding clips closest to the rear door can flow over the wheel hump then down to the floor gutter. For leaks from the rearmost molding clips it tends to drop down into the quarter panel cavity.
Definitely need to clean the quarter panal cavities out, check for pooling water including the rearmost section of the rocker panels where water can get trapped.
Remove drain plugs (rubber or plastic) for those areas that face downward. Probably one of the easiest plug to overlook is the plastic plug for the rear of the rocker panel which faces the ground. Grab with needle nose pliers twist and pull, you'll need replacement plugs especially the plastic type as removing them often deforms/damages them. If you try to pop them off using a screwdriver for example (to save/reuse them) you may end up scratching the paint causing bigger problems in the future (rust).
One more possible leak area is from the taillight pockets where they seal around the hole in the body ie: where they fit. There is a factory applied a line of butyl rubber applied around that opening (or on the backside of the pocket) before assembly. What I've found is that the butyl rubber has shrunk over time allowing water and road dust to come in from around the pocket. It's not much but over 30 years it can add up, IME. To address that you have to remove the tail lights/lamps, disconnect the wiring, then remove the pocket.
3M Windweld butyl rubber rope (smallest diameter) can be used to seal thing back up (and to make small buttons for the clips and other holes)
Once the cavities are clean and dry, first address any surface rust, then spray those cavities with something like 3M Cavity wax including the cavity that runs along the top and front of the rear wheel well humps using the 3M nozzle kit for the Cavity wax. Any small drain holes or slits should be kept open ie by using plastic zip ties to avoid breaking the paint seal.