Try Redneck Trailer Supply. They have an excellent selection of axles and hubs.
Go to: http://www.redneck-trailer.com/
cheers,
dale
Go to: http://www.redneck-trailer.com/
cheers,
dale
m416 Hub conversion (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Phulcrum
- Start date
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I always thought I saw that thread here on mud too but decided to check my LCML saved items folders and found this.
Now, I don't know if a trailer place could take those bearing numbers and figure out what hub would work. Worth a try. Would get to keep the parking brake vs. going to the new axle.
Now, I don't know if a trailer place could take those bearing numbers and figure out what hub would work. Worth a try. Would get to keep the parking brake vs. going to the new axle.
To be sure you need to know if it has the small "hub cap" or the big hub cap.. if the hub cap is like 2"(looks like any other trailer grease/hub cap) you should be able to change the hub,, if its the big like 3" the hub cannot be swapped out.. Its easy if you know when your trailer was made,, if its older like in the 60's it will have the big kind,, late 70's into the 80's it might have the smaller ones.. Do you have surge brakes,, if so you most likely have the newer style..
I contacted ABC and they seem real helpful. Shipping prices didn't seem unreasonable either.
I am curious what people are going with. I do want brakes and the 6 x 5.5 bolt pattern.
For the people who have purchased already did you buy new leaf springs and mounts or just replace the axle? If you didn't buy new hardware, did the new axle fit inside the old hardware?
Issues I can see with getting the replacement springs are not having the right height (the main point). You would also have to have to fab a mount for the shock. The length of the springs from ABC are small I do believe.
Thanks in advance. I lose sleep thinking about this project!
I am curious what people are going with. I do want brakes and the 6 x 5.5 bolt pattern.
For the people who have purchased already did you buy new leaf springs and mounts or just replace the axle? If you didn't buy new hardware, did the new axle fit inside the old hardware?
Issues I can see with getting the replacement springs are not having the right height (the main point). You would also have to have to fab a mount for the shock. The length of the springs from ABC are small I do believe.
Thanks in advance. I lose sleep thinking about this project!
Don't think they would work with my 416. My bearing numbers are LM501349 for the bearing and LM501310 for the race. I wish they would work so I can keep the parking brake but oh well.
When doing a 3500# axle replacement, anybody get the original parking brake to work or was the mod pretty tuff?
e-brake
This came from an earlier post,
Dexter Axle - Trailer Axles and Running Gear Components - PRODUCTS & LITERATURE
Download the pdf for "Trailer Brakes and Service Parts/ 10 inch brakes" near the bottom of the page. There is a drop down menu in the upper box there.....
Then look at page 2 of that pdf. You will have to buy at least the new backing plates and parking brake cam mechanisms... or just replace the entire brake assemblies. This has been discussed a few times here - a search should turn up the thread(s).
This came from an earlier post,
Dexter Axle - Trailer Axles and Running Gear Components - PRODUCTS & LITERATURE
Download the pdf for "Trailer Brakes and Service Parts/ 10 inch brakes" near the bottom of the page. There is a drop down menu in the upper box there.....
Then look at page 2 of that pdf. You will have to buy at least the new backing plates and parking brake cam mechanisms... or just replace the entire brake assemblies. This has been discussed a few times here - a search should turn up the thread(s).
Thanks for the link but that is for electric and hydraulic brakes. I don't think either one would work with the stock manual parking brake. I did search and find where others had asked the question but did not get an answer.
Specifically, I am wondering if the stock backing plates could be modified to put them on the 3500 axle allowing the stock brake components to be used. I am going to wager a guess that the drums offered for the 3500 pound axle would never mate to those stock backing plates. It would be interesting to see pics of them side my side.
Certainly the stock drums will not go on the 3500 pound axle spindles other wise someone would have done that.
Did you ever get this figured out? I also have a late model m416 with the surge brakes and would like to keep 'em but want the 6 on 5.5 pattern to fit my 80 series wheels. Anybody make a bolt on adapter from this five lug to our six lug?
I have not. I was interested in adding a 3500# axle but using the same backing plates. Someone who has done the 3500 conversion would no best. I have yet to get into my new bad ass 1966 trailer, but I am making a plan!
- Thread starter
- #31
what i learned before ordering an entire new axle is this:
you CAN adapt the hub to a different pattern, However, you cannot add a lug, so if you have 5 you cant change to 6.
In the end, i just went with a new axle. IMHO on a trailer this light , you shouldnt need brakes. drive responsibly and you'll have your increased stopping distance.
you CAN adapt the hub to a different pattern, However, you cannot add a lug, so if you have 5 you cant change to 6.
In the end, i just went with a new axle. IMHO on a trailer this light , you shouldnt need brakes. drive responsibly and you'll have your increased stopping distance.
I ran across a place on line to get an aluminum adapter for going from 5 lug to 6 lug.
5 X 5.50 to 6 X 5.50 Wheel Adapter/ Wheel Spacer
The bad thing about them is they are 2" thick. And they are $100 each.
I have heard of using the front hub from a drum FJ40 front fine spline and getting all new bearings to fit. Then re-drilling the drum to fit over the hub.
I am trying to decide which way I am going to go myself.
Chris
5 X 5.50 to 6 X 5.50 Wheel Adapter/ Wheel Spacer
The bad thing about them is they are 2" thick. And they are $100 each.
I have heard of using the front hub from a drum FJ40 front fine spline and getting all new bearings to fit. Then re-drilling the drum to fit over the hub.
I am trying to decide which way I am going to go myself.
Chris
I've seen spacer conversions for a while. I think I found some that were around 75 bucks a pop. Overall it'd be cheaper to go with a new axle. I have to look back through the thread one day and see if someone posted up better spcec for ordering through ABC.
I ordered my replacement axle from Trailer Axles for utility and boat trailers. Came to $162 shipped and arrived in 72hrs from order. The spring plates were bolted to the axle flanges so I could get the locations perfect the first time. I got a 52" WMF to WMF, which they had in stock. The factory axle on my Japanese Type 73 had a 52.5" WMF to WMF. Just put your trailer on jack stands, pull both wheels off and take a measuring tape from WMF to WMF. Honestly, it should be about the same, as the Japanese trailers are almost an exact copy of the 416.
I also didn't get any brake parts, but the axle is upgradable later. When I get a burr up my arse, and sick of using wheel chocks I will rework the brake. I was thinking of adding a hydro master to the factory brake assy and plumbing it into hydro brakes on the axles.
I also didn't get any brake parts, but the axle is upgradable later. When I get a burr up my arse, and sick of using wheel chocks I will rework the brake. I was thinking of adding a hydro master to the factory brake assy and plumbing it into hydro brakes on the axles.
I like my parking brake. Has nothing to do with running brakes for me.
Question: What calculations must I make to be certain a 80 wheel 16x8 4.5"BS will fit with a 295 Nitto, before ordering my axle from ABC? I have a 4Runner and want to keep the trailer axle as narrow as possible, and not so interested in matching width. But if I must I must just curious if the axle place will know how to determine this. Oh and of course a axle flip to put the axle on the bottom of the spring will be necessary to run the tire and rim combo.
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A
whats the over all width (outside sidwall to outside sidewall) that you're wanting? get that measurement, then you can deduct about half an inch for the sidewall buldge, then subtract 3.5 from both ends (8"w-4.5bs) and that will give you wms to wms. subtract the thickness of the drum brakes (probably get this number from ABC, or figure between 1-1.5") and that should get you an appoximation of end to end width minus backing plates for brakes. then you can give them the spring perch dimensions.
this is all assuming you're running the same drum type setup and not a hub setup which might be different.
edit:
cdn M101 & 416 wheels are very narrow, so if you put a stock 8" wheel with a 4.5" BS, they will stick out there quite a bit. easiest way would be to mount/ up your whee/tire setup to your current axle, and subtract whatever sticks past the flare.
this is all assuming you're running the same drum type setup and not a hub setup which might be different.
edit:
cdn M101 & 416 wheels are very narrow, so if you put a stock 8" wheel with a 4.5" BS, they will stick out there quite a bit. easiest way would be to mount/ up your whee/tire setup to your current axle, and subtract whatever sticks past the flare.
Yeah the mounting was my first idea but 5 on 5 to 6 on 5.5 doesnt fit up as much as i'd like, yes yes just then subtract the thread length, but before all that an SOA swap must be conducted and prior to that I wanted to swap in a new axle to save time but having cake and eating it to doesn't always work out. You other measurement method sounds plausible.
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bringing this back up top (yes, it's a old thread, i know)
i'm looking into doing the same conversion (my trailer has 5 lug hubs and i want to change over to the toyota 6 lug pattern). anybody have any pics of the two variants (same size bearings versus larger inner/smaller outer)? is there any way to tell what i have without taking the thing apart? it sounds like i'm being lazy but i just have too many things going on right now and i can't devote the time to this at the moment but either way i'd like to buy the parts now before i burn through some money i set aside.
this is what my trailer looks like (which type of bearings do i have? i'd really like to keep my paring brake!):
youve got the larger ones. you can tell by the dust cap. the cdn m101s had the smaller (standardized bearing) setup.
