Mike Shull
Let’s go…
Wow, Rob! This thing turned out great!! Nice work on those fenders. I can’t wait to see it in person.
Builds Lynchburg Lemonade, matzell's STW
- Thread starter matzell
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- #382
Well, at beer thirty I am taking a break to see what is next. I feel that I have been rolling the last few weeks. All the work on Lynchburg and installing and ARB in a friends 40 and welding up his labs bumper. Plus the surprise water pump job. Had to put a rear pinion seal in the GMC as well.
It will all be worth it in just over a week sitting at the top of Imogene staring off into the distance and snow covered peaks.
Let the haters hate but, I will always have heat and a/c in my home shop!
It is in the high 90's and high humidity today. That would suck. I would do it, but this is much better.
It will all be worth it in just over a week sitting at the top of Imogene staring off into the distance and snow covered peaks.
Let the haters hate but, I will always have heat and a/c in my home shop!
It is in the high 90's and high humidity today. That would suck. I would do it, but this is much better.
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- #383
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- #384
Well my elation of having the water pump out the way was short lived. Found a small drip this am. Snugged up a couple of nuts. Test drove for 30 mins and found one drip. Tightened the nuts a little more. Cleaned and let run. It would take about 20 min then drip would form.
Not wanting troubles on the road, 2000 miles each way. I pulled it all back down. Found the paper gasket from GM was leaking. Should have put rtv on it.... put rtv on old metal gasket and reinstalled. Shaved it down to under 2 hrs. Cool. Went to fill it with Dexcool after painfully straining 4 gals and found the leak at the bypass pipe from water pump to t stat. I mean like really leaking. O ring tore going back in
Not wanting troubles on the road, 2000 miles each way. I pulled it all back down. Found the paper gasket from GM was leaking. Should have put rtv on it.... put rtv on old metal gasket and reinstalled. Shaved it down to under 2 hrs. Cool. Went to fill it with Dexcool after painfully straining 4 gals and found the leak at the bypass pipe from water pump to t stat. I mean like really leaking. O ring tore going back in
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- #385
Oh crap! I went inside and searched google. Found Dorman makes an oring kit. Called around and one of my suppliers had one at the Richmond hub and they were open!
Off I went in the 80 to pick up two o rings, 3 more galloms of Dexcool, not knowing how much I lost, 3 gals of distilled water and some stay dry. Got it all back together and checking for leaks now. Seems good.
Off I went in the 80 to pick up two o rings, 3 more galloms of Dexcool, not knowing how much I lost, 3 gals of distilled water and some stay dry. Got it all back together and checking for leaks now. Seems good.
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- #386
I leave in 5 days for SAS. Not sure I want any more surprises! And it is pouring down rain!
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Land Shark
SILVER Star
Hey thats my coozie! Ha not really but I do use it quite oftenWell, at beer thirty I am taking a break to see what is next. I feel that I have been rolling the last few weeks. All the work on Lynchburg and installing and ARB in a friends 40 and welding up his labs bumper. Plus the surprise water pump job. Had to put a rear pinion seal in the GMC as well.
It will all be worth it in just over a week sitting at the top of Imogene staring off into the distance and snow covered peaks.
Let the haters hate but, I will always have heat and a/c in my home shop!
View attachment 3957440
Land Shark
SILVER Star
I had to stop working because of that storm 
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- #389
All loaded up to head to SAS 9 this weekend. I did not realize how much Lynchburg had grown till it was next to one that was the same size as mine used to be. He even has my old tires.
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- #390
Great time at SAS 9!
Truck is working great and rides much better.
Truck is working great and rides much better.
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- #391
Truck did great all week. Only issue is rt rear tire is rubbing on the tailpipe.
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- #392
I never got around to the t case gears for the CO trip but may need them here on the east coast and other places. Sumo 4:1 gears going in. My buddy got a machined case from CB and was nice enough to let me look at it. I measured it and will use it as a guide for mine. I printed off pics from Mud to draw on
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- #393
I had a little time to start sanding out case. Idler is good and low range big gear needs a hair more. Now I see on a mill they get the contour of the gear with the bit so the center is a little deeper on the fins.
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- #394
I have also been distracted with an addition I have going on my garage. Buddy left his dump trailer here so I could clean up a little.
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- #395
Case is sanded and ground out, test fitted with all bearings in place and no grinding. I pulled the rear case cover off and found a small hole in the top area.
A little jb weld and I will let it set up overnight. It should not be a problem.
Tech hint.... I ground the case half out using the measurements I took off the other case. I ended up going deeper as the gear was rubbibg on the face. Once it fit in, I put it together and turned the gears. I had grease on all points and just looked to see where the geease was rubbed. I also installed the rear output bearing and housing to center it as it does move a little.
I have about 3.5 hours measuring marking and test fitting. For $225 I would have paid a machine shop to do this. I could not find a Cruiser shop to do this without me buying all the parts from them. I have wholesale accounts with many people, so I saved money by going this route. Shipping would have been another $100 coast to coast twice if they would have done it.
With all this, yes it is doable with common tools. Would I do it again. Yes. If I had more money, I would have ordered a complete tranny and t-case from "one of the boys"!
Having a lift or the whole case and tranny out would be the preferred way to do this.
Ok time for some more spotted cow and relax as I wait for the JB weld to dry.
A little jb weld and I will let it set up overnight. It should not be a problem.
Tech hint.... I ground the case half out using the measurements I took off the other case. I ended up going deeper as the gear was rubbibg on the face. Once it fit in, I put it together and turned the gears. I had grease on all points and just looked to see where the geease was rubbed. I also installed the rear output bearing and housing to center it as it does move a little.
I have about 3.5 hours measuring marking and test fitting. For $225 I would have paid a machine shop to do this. I could not find a Cruiser shop to do this without me buying all the parts from them. I have wholesale accounts with many people, so I saved money by going this route. Shipping would have been another $100 coast to coast twice if they would have done it.
With all this, yes it is doable with common tools. Would I do it again. Yes. If I had more money, I would have ordered a complete tranny and t-case from "one of the boys"!
Having a lift or the whole case and tranny out would be the preferred way to do this.
Ok time for some more spotted cow and relax as I wait for the JB weld to dry.
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
That gear is yuge!
- Thread starter
- #397
The 3.3:1 set is a bit smaller. less machining of the case. I am not sure I need the 10% underdrive in high range, but will take it. If I think about it, I will measure the old and the new gears.