Builds Lynchburg Lemonade, matzell's STW (1 Viewer)

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Are those 33" BFG's or did you really buy 31" BFG's?
No, those are 31's! The 33 Razr's are too big for my non lifted 82, as they look good on it they will not clear once I get the quarter panels straight. I am taking the 33's off it and putting these 31's on that one. Lynchburg Lemonade will be sporting the 33's!
 
Hopefully this makes sense...

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I got a late start today. Old suspension and axle out. Getting ready to throw the new springs and axles in. Last part was the 300m hub gears from RCV.

A Farmer must have owned this at one point. I like the Barbed wire!

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What does one do with the left over axles and springs....



Put them in another solid frame for a later build of course!

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Back on the ground. I like the way the Rancho springs center the rear wheel in the wheel well.

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What do you do when you can not find that special left hand thread jamb nut. Make one. And make a right hand as well!

Go ahead and tap your new 1.25 x .250 wall DOM while you are there. New DOM compared to stock mini truck tie rod.

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I have used 84-85 mini truck steering parts on several 40's over the years. They are beefier than the 40 stuff. If you swap ends left to right you can hook the stock 40 drag link end into the mini truck end. I like to ream out the hole and use all mini truck parts.

All parts fitted together.

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Watch out for death wobble. I used mini truck tie rod ends on my 40 until I got tired of watching the front tires oscillate so that I could barely keep the truck on the road.

That right end extra mounting hole for the factory minitruck steering stabilizer was being worked /rotated fore and aft. Without turning the steering wheel the tie rod was getting at least an inch of side to side movement.

My point is that wouldn’t use the off-center mini truck tie rod end again for a drag link mount.
 
Watch out for death wobble. I used mini truck tie rod ends on my 40 until I got tired of watching the front tires oscillate so that I could barely keep the truck on the road.

That right end extra mounting hole for the factory minitruck steering stabilizer was being worked /rotated fore and aft. Without turning the steering wheel the tie rod was getting at least an inch of side to side movement.

My point is that wouldn’t use the off-center mini truck tie rod end again for a drag link mount.
I have done it multiple times without issue. My DD is like that too.
 
Loaded up and headed home!

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So I bought some spring plate sliders at a swap meet last weekend. It was only one pair. Today I decided to make another pair. I am not sure what they cost new but I had some time in them. They turned out OK but it was a lot of time. The cold saw helped cut out the plate!

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Rear suspension finished up. Shocks mounted to u-bolt mounts like stock. I went with the new Rancho RS5000X shocks. These are not the standard "white rockets" that most sell. These are gas charged and valved for the FJ40. They are a direct fit for the Rancho 2 1/2" lift I installed. Even with the longer shackles I had to compress the shocks slightly to install.

I installed a set of Spidertrax wheel spacers to make the front match the width of the 62 series rear axle.

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The front fender had to come off to gain easier access to the steering box. Like most east coast trucks, these snapped off no mater how carefully I was, even putting heat on them.

Unlike most kits that use the smaller bore steering box, I am using the large bore box for even more power. I happen to have this one from PSC that should have not problem turning the locked front axle with 33's :)

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Steering box mount done. I told you I was going to build this my way! I use a piece of .250 wall 4x4 square tube so I can access the steering box without having to use a spud shaft. I also do not like the way most plate mounts are that angle the box downward towards the front and block the front shackle bolt/nut and also hang down below the bumper. The other mounts that 4x4 labs makes are beefy but I think they are overkill for my purpose and I do not like the box sticking up as high as it does. I understand why they do it for the do it your-self install. I used 1" .250 wall DOM to sleeve the frame and the shackle mount to make this solid.

The box will sit up nice and high and clears the frame and shackle mounts. I had to make the stand off mounts an extra .250" to clear the box to frame contact. The small bore is 70mm vs the large bore is 80mm for more torque.

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Rear suspension finished up. Shocks mounted to u-bolt mounts like stock. I went with the new Rancho RS5000X shocks. These are not the standard "white rockets" that most sell. These are gas charged and valved for the FJ40. They are a direct fit for the Rancho 2 1/2" lift I installed. Even with the longer shackles I had to compress the shocks slightly to install.

I installed a set of Spidertrax wheel spacers to make the front match the width of the 62 series rear axle.

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I like those shackle skids, who makes them?
 
I like those shackle skids, who makes them?
I looked around on the Google search. (after making the second set) These look like the ones Mark sells @65swb45 I think they are stronger than the ones others are selling due to the fact the angles of the mounting points, both at about a 45 deg angle so they keep from bending back. Others are at a 90 deg down and allows the bottom skid to flex upwards without support. With the time I had wrapped up in them I would have been better off buying them. I will know better next time! I did add the shock mount in the proper position to optimize flex and less stress on the shock bushing.

Edit: you said shackle skids, I am not sure I answered your question????
 

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