LX570 wheel well "adjustments" for 35s

[JadeMonkey]

Hey all, just put some 285/75R18 Falken Wildpeak A/TW3s on the 2013 LX. Also did the AHC sensor lift and installed a set of Spidertrax 1.25" spacers on all 4 of my old style Tundra (non-BBS) wheels.

As expected, I'm getting some rubbing on the front wheel wheel / liner and I have read a lot of threads referencing pushing this area in or massaging it. I've never gotten to play in this particular sandbox so far so I'm looking for some tips. From threads by @radman, @grinchy, @dubyahard, @thebigelf, and I'm sure others I know that I need to "push in" the fender liners (at least until the Dissent bumpers are installed) on the front and perhaps the back (near the running boards / sliders) of the wheel well. What's the preferred method to do this? I've seen some use a heat gun to soften the plastic and then deform the plastic itself with a hard object like a broom stick while others seem to prefer to drill new mounting holes for the wheel well liners that are farther from the tire. It seems like a body mount chop or messing with pinch welds is probably not necessary but cutting a bracket on the rear of the wheel well might be...

I appreciate anyone's thoughts on what you've done or how you think is best to address the rubbing in different areas. I'm not afraid to cut or modify as needed (aside from natural apprehension at messing with the second most expensive thing I own) but want to make sure I go about it the best way possible. Thanks all!

 

[grinchy]

I think you've got the work identified. Just get rolling. I think the slot and screw is much better than the trim for In front of the front tires.
You'll probably have to break off the little sheet metal bracket for the running board behind the front tire. Then a bit of heat molding and you're done.

 

[JadeMonkey]

Thanks @grinchy! Do you happen to have a picture of the bracket you're talking about? Will it be apparent once I'm in there? I'll definitely try to make new mounting holes for the front liner then based on your advice. I'll be getting a new Dissent bumper soon (hopefully... stupid Covid) so I'm much less worried about the front than the rear but still like to do things the right way.

 

[radman]

There's a good picture of how to prep the liner with a new slot and hole in this thread. Once you "push forward", you screw the stock Z clip in the new area.

AHC Height Offset Utility How-To

Height Offset can adjust a maximum of .8", so you move the physical sensors first, and then you have .8 to play with. 1mm of movement on the sensor equates to 2mm on the rig. In theory, assuming there’s enough stoke in the shocks, you might be able to add .8” on top of the “sensor lift” method...

forum.ih8mud.com

(also a pic of the metal bracket in that thread)

 

[TeCKis300]

Thanks @grinchy! Do you happen to have a picture of the bracket you're talking about? Will it be apparent once I'm in there? I'll definitely try to make new mounting holes for the front liner then based on your advice. I'll be getting a new Dissent bumper soon (hopefully... stupid Covid) so I'm much less worried about the front than the rear but still like to do things the right way.

This thread should help

Modifying Splash Gaurds for 33's

Many of us with 33s (and larger) have had to remove the front splash guards. While it's a quick and easy solution, my intention has always been to modify the guards to maintain underbody protection and aesthetics. Without the guards, the tire kicks debris into the underbody, and more...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Cliffordbf]

Hey all, just put some 285/70R18 Falken Wildpeak A/TW3s on the 2013 LX. Also did the AHC sensor lift and installed a set of Spidertrax 1.25" spacers on all 4 wheels.

As expected, I'm getting some rubbing on the front wheel wheel / liner and I have read a lot of threads referencing pushing this area in or massaging it. I've never gotten to play in this particular sandbox so far so I'm looking for some tips. From threads by @radman, @grinchy, @dubyahard, @thebigelf, and I'm sure others I know that I need to "push in" the fender liners (at least until the Dissent bumpers are installed) on the front and perhaps the back (near the running boards / sliders) of the wheel well. What's the preferred method to do this? I've seen some use a heat gun to soften the plastic and then deform the plastic itself with a hard object like a broom stick while others seem to prefer to drill new mounting holes for the wheel well liners that are farther from the tire. It seems like a body mount chop or messing with pinch welds is probably not necessary but cutting a bracket on the rear of the wheel well might be...

I appreciate anyone's thoughts on what you've done or how you think is best to address the rubbing in different areas. I'm not afraid to cut or modify as needed (aside from natural apprehension at messing with the second most expensive thing I own) but want to make sure I go about it the best way possible. Thanks all!

I may be confused here but the title says 35s and the tire size 285/70 is 33.7”. Just looking for some clarification, as I am also interested in running 35s on my LX.

 

[JadeMonkey]

I may be confused here but the title says 35s and the tire size 285/70 is 33.7”. Just looking for some clarification, as I am also interested in running 35s on my LX.

Typo and my apologies; the aspect should be 75 and not 70. I'm running 285/75R18 which is 34.8" x 11.2" and close enough to 35" for me to feel official.

 

[Cliffordbf]

Typo and my apologies; the aspect should be 75 and not 70. I'm running 285/75R18 which is 34.8" x 11.2" and close enough to 35" for me to feel official.

100% agree and I am on the hunt for a ~35” (34”+) and came across a 285/75 Nitto Ridge Grappler that I am curious to try out. Will you be at LCDC this week? Or do you have pictures of the tires installed?

 

[grinchy]

Lowest most screw is the bracket I had to break off.

Builds - The Guzzler - 2009 LX570

Mounted four tires today with pep boys help. They measure 35 and a tiny bit by 10 3/4 at the bulge. The tread block is 8 3/4. They should be easy to clearance with that narrow tread block and I hope to get them test fit tonight. Two took 2 oz and two took 10oz. I’m going to break the bead on...

forum.ih8mud.com

then Shape and reattach the plastic back with a method of your choice, I used zip tie.

 

[JadeMonkey]

100% agree and I am on the hunt for a ~35” (34”+) and came across a 285/75 Nitto Ridge Grappler that I am curious to try out. Will you be at LCDC this week? Or do you have pictures of the tires installed?

I will be at LCDC, heading up tomorrow afternoon. Definitely come by and check the tires out!

I just had them installed today so I can't provide much feedback yet but I'm sure by Saturday night I'll have an idea of how well they work. The Nitto Ridge Grapplers were my other choice. I went with the Falkens due to the lower cost and the better winter / snow rating. I've also heard that might be a touch quieter than the RG which is a plus but they're both supposed to be pretty quiet. The Ridge Grapplers have a more aggressive look which I would have preferred but the A/TW3s do look much better in person than they do in pictures.

 

[JadeMonkey]

Lowest most screw is the bracket I had to break off.

Builds - The Guzzler - 2009 LX570

Mounted four tires today with pep boys help. They measure 35 and a tiny bit by 10 3/4 at the bulge. The tread block is 8 3/4. They should be easy to clearance with that narrow tread block and I hope to get them test fit tonight. Two took 2 oz and two took 10oz. I’m going to break the bead on...

forum.ih8mud.com

then Shape and reattach the plastic back with a method of your choice, I used zip tie.

Thanks Grinchy, I know the one you're talking about. My tires are barely clipping the edge of the rocker panel so I may try to trim them and leave that screw in place. Not sure how it will deal with being offroad but I'll be sure to have tools to deal with it if more trimming or cutting is needed.

 

[dubyahard]

For the rear of the fronts, it's just removing the flap and then heating and deforming the step and rocker rearward. I made mine stay back with zipties and it's held for 1 year+ and all sort of wheeling. The front was a series of trial and error with a heat gun. If you have a lift it goes much faster. Heat, mold, put tire back on, turn wheel, remove, heat, mold.... Until it doesn't rub anywhere. Then you try it on the ground. Then you try it in low mode. I did not make any new holes in my liners.

 

[TeCKis300]

Is anyone with 35s, and hard wheeling, rubbing the upper part of the fender liners? I remember earlier reports for LCs, having to limit their suspension travel as it was contacting the uppers? This may be with more aggressive, wider 35x12.5s however.

 

[grinchy]

Is anyone with 35s, and hard wheeling, rubbing the upper part of the fender liners? I remember earlier reports for LCs, having to limit their suspension travel as it was contacting the uppers? This may be with more aggressive, wider 35x12.5s however.

I'll preface - I haven't maxed out AHC sensor lift (Front or back). I prefer to keep it as low as possible. I have it so that I still rub getting toward full lock in L. I can navigate in a parking garage, but theres rubbing on tight turns. Or I can 3 pt. Again - Low as practical.
In 'N' I get occasional big hit compression rubbing on upper fender liner (top, the arch over the tire). This would be in 4H going 35+ on a dirt road and hitting a gully, or a bit rut, or at the bottom of a steep hill transitioning flat.
I don't see this rub in 'H' or 'Extra H'; but since the stroke isn't changed in these modes, just the zero pt, I assume it's because the speeds are very low and the compression/time factor long, allowing for less stroke necessary (or maybe the firmer damping in H and Extra H prevents).

My personal opinion is that to eliminate entirely I'd need a 1/2" (maybe 3/8" maybe 1/4") body lift. And I already have cut for a rear bumper, so probably not doing that any time soon. It doesn't present any practical issues so far, and the rubbing could be described as light, short duration, and aside from a L mode full turn, not impactful.

I'm on the 35x11 plan . . .

*Edit - I'm aware the 'L' mode turn issues could be full compression 'Extra H' turn issues in some rare scenario. I haven't had it come up AT ALL yet, but I guess it could happen. The only absolute solution is likely running a 34" or less tire, or body lift. It's close, like 1/2" or less tire radius.

 

[dubyahard]

Is anyone with 35s, and hard wheeling, rubbing the upper part of the fender liners? I remember earlier reports for LCs, having to limit their suspension travel as it was contacting the uppers? This may be with more aggressive, wider 35x12.5s however.

Rubbing the upper part? No. Never. Occasionally the front, but not enough to worry about. I take it easy though and don't go fast but I am pretty aggressive when it comes to what and where I take it - as noted by the pin-striping, wheel scratches, front/rear bumper scrapes, tail pipe deformation, and severely damaged driver and passenger side steps. 35x11 or 285/75R18 is where it's at. I really like more meat, so I wish I could find a 35x11 on a 17" but I don't think it exists yet.

 

[grinchy]

Rubbing the upper part? No. Never. Occasionally the front, but not enough to worry about. I take it easy though and don't go fast but I am pretty aggressive when it comes to what and where I take it - as noted by the pin-striping, wheel scratches, front/rear bumper scrapes, tail pipe deformation, and severely damaged driver and passenger side steps. 35x11 or 285/75R18 is where it's at. I really like more meat, so I wish I could find a 35x11 on a 17" but I don't think it exists yet.

Kenda has a hybrid that is 35x10.5x17 Automotive Tires, Passenger Car Tires, Light Truck Tires, UHP Tires | Automotive | Kenda Tires | Klever R/T
d rated 3 ply sidewall. Whenever I get around to rolling 17s it's top of my list.

 

[TeCKis300]

Rubbing the upper part? No. Never. Occasionally the front, but not enough to worry about. I take it easy though and don't go fast but I am pretty aggressive when it comes to what and where I take it - as noted by the pin-striping, wheel scratches, front/rear bumper scrapes, tail pipe deformation, and severely damaged driver and passenger side steps. 35x11 or 285/75R18 is where it's at. I really like more meat, so I wish I could find a 35x11 on a 17" but I don't think it exists yet.

35.1" tall. That's huuge. That can almost reasonably be called a 36.

What size wheel and offset do you run with those meats? Would be interested if you have a build thread?

 

[dubyahard]

Kenda has a hybrid that is 35x10.5x17 Automotive Tires, Passenger Car Tires, Light Truck Tires, UHP Tires | Automotive | Kenda Tires | Klever R/T
d rated 3 ply sidewall. Whenever I get around to rolling 17s it's top of my list.

Interesting solution. Pair that with some of the Icon Vectors and it would look sexy with all that meat. (sounds weird)

35.1" tall. That's huuge. That can almost reasonably be called a 36.

What size wheel and offset do you run with those meats? Would be interested if you have a build thread?

I can't recall the wheel offset but they are standard Tundra TRD take-offs. They were cheap and essentially new when I got them. I did a COVID quarantine art project and made them into LRD wheels - an idea I got from mud somewhere - but I don't have pics yet.
I use 1.25" Bora Spacers and have no complaints. Turning radius is still impressive and I have no fears parallel parking or turning around on trails.
I've considered starting a build thread, but I suck at taking pictures so I'm afraid it'd be too boring. Not a bad thing, but when I go out and wheel or work on the truck and I forget to take pictures because I'm having too much fun or too focused. Also, I'm no photog.

 

[grinchy]

35.1" tall. That's huuge. That can almost reasonably be called a 36.

Rockin 36". Oh yeah. What does 35.3" get me?
The tire industry is whack a dack.
--

LT275/80R18

128/125

E

35.31

10.83

4079

80

16

7.5

7

8.5

RWL

 

[TeCKis300]

Those bigguns put you in monster truck territory. Def monster truck.

Isn't it interesting how the LX variant is the one now more readily capable of fitting big meats. They both rock, but there should be no need for the BS of "if you want to mod it, get a...".

Awesome pics on your instagram @dubyahard . Throw big ol tires on. Get out there. Lots of height and clearance to tackle aggressive stuff even without the benefit of armor.