Alright, who's gotta an LX in Oregon. Let's make this happen friends!
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Read a couple mentions about a “custom Slee” slider for the 200-series LX. Can someone who’s done this install post photos, as well as talk us through how the aftermarket sliders fit/alongside with the AHC protective tubing. I don’t see link to order this from Slee.
Thank you ahead of time.
Thank you ahead of time.
The photo with the red box is the Slee “custom LX slider” — can someone post more photos, reviews of the installed slider, if possible. Thank you.Reviving an old thread, please humor me.
It's been brought up before—but MetalTech claims their 200 sliders fit the LX570: Metal Tech 200 Series Land Cruiser/LX570 Sliders
I've never heard of any confirmed installs and assume they are mistaken.
Slee's custom LX sliders mount to the frame at 3 points. If the AHC armor were removed, would that back hanger on the MT's slide in under the globes (circled in red) in Slee's photo:
Curious why aftermarket designers not just make a slider that would also serve as armor for the AHC that runs along the entire range of the slider. So a bolt on combination of skidplate and slider.
Yep, we need one. Until recently i don't think there was enough volume to warrant the traditional TLC fabricators to mess with the LX market. Now though, with 2008-2010 LXs in the low 20s and sometimes below, there is a pretty good interest in using the LX as an overland (and maybe more?) platform.
Agree on the need for skidplate deflection/protection for the AHC. And nobody has it. My current plan is to go with a local fab that makes kit sliders for ebay and get custom brackets made that replace the AHC rods with similar intraleg front to back skids. Even if it loses 1/4" or whatever of clearance for heavy plate it would be worth it.
Look forward to seeing that come together.
If reasonable price and shipping could be worked out (~$500), I would buy one.
An engineering question: do the running board AHC components need to be exposed to circulating air for heat exchange purposes, or would it be possible to do a slider/enclosure combination along the following lines.
I took @TeCKis300’s photo and green is the suggested aluminum/steel enclosure/slider combination, leaving the current steel tubing intact, but adding the enclosure/slider to the tubing mounting points (red). This way, no additional drilling in frame is needed.
Pluses: in addition to typical slider protection for obstacles/boulders, offers protection against road gunk/mud/debris.
Minuses: would need to be removed if driving in winter to wash away road salt; possibly removed after especially dirty mudding/off-road trips to clean/inspect components.
I took @TeCKis300’s photo and green is the suggested aluminum/steel enclosure/slider combination, leaving the current steel tubing intact, but adding the enclosure/slider to the tubing mounting points (red). This way, no additional drilling in frame is needed.
Pluses: in addition to typical slider protection for obstacles/boulders, offers protection against road gunk/mud/debris.
Minuses: would need to be removed if driving in winter to wash away road salt; possibly removed after especially dirty mudding/off-road trips to clean/inspect components.
it is a recessed area for the most part, so it is penetration protection (pointy rocks or uneven limbs) I'm after. I don't need it to carry full weight, the rails should cover that. In thinking on it really an unlikely place to have contact, fairly narrow, protected an four sides. Maybe much fuss over not much risk.
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Being all the damping components are there, I would say it does need airflow to maintain performance when doing aggressive washboards for example. The valving components have heat sink areas built into them, so they do expect some airflow to dissipate heat. I suspect It wouldn't need much as it already has way more surface area and volume compared to just about any other suspension type.
From a slider design and geometry perspective, I believe it really needs an arm that cups under the stock frame rails to be able to translate the upward lever forces that pull up and out. Not sure if that translates with words, but maybe I can do a pic later.
From a slider design and geometry perspective, I believe it really needs an arm that cups under the stock frame rails to be able to translate the upward lever forces that pull up and out. Not sure if that translates with words, but maybe I can do a pic later.
I agree regarding need for “penetration protection” — the AHC accumulators are rock solid, and mounting hardware is solid, but the “plumbing” (tubing between various components) is still 1/2 or so piping, and a limb that is thrust up there could definitely rip out or bend the piping. In my experience, it’s also a huge mud accumulator, and I had to pressure wash the mud several times just to get the AHC components clean.
If there’s a way to cover them up (not airtight or anything like that), but sufficiently covered where we can feel comfortable that limbs won’t get snagged, and mud won’t accumulate, that would be a GREAT mod for the LX570.
Furthermore, if freed from the need to make the “AHC Shield” load bearing, like a true skid plate or slider, then I think a totally flush cover/shield setup over the green area above could be done relatively easily without booting into frame, but instead mounting with low profile “hose clamp”-type brackets onto the steel protection tubes (at both ends, length wise). Done right, this would have another extremely beneficial effect — eliminating road noise from AHC side components, making the overall ride even quieter than it already is in the tomb-like LX (or offsetting tire hum from those running BFG AT KO2s or the like).
Also, it makes for a more aerodynamic ride, which adds to performance and fuel efficiency. Marginally, but over a long enough run, noticeably so. In support of this last point, I currently took off the engine under armor jigsaw plates, so as to clean/examine/paint — and road driving without the 1 square yard or so of armor/plating/shield introduces NOTICEABLE drag — and dropped fuel economy by 1mpg.
If easily removable 1/8”-thick aluminum shielding can protect the AHC components from limbs, rocks, etc. AND give aerodynamic benefits, then it might be one of the cheapest and highest yield performance mods one can do straight off the bat on an LX. I don’t see a lot of late-model BMWs at salvage yards, but next time anyone does, take a peak at the extraordinary underbody aerodynamics on display there. Most of it is high-strength aluminum — from what I recall — and this would make for a hell of a machine. German light-weight/high-strength armor on a Japanese go-anywhere rig.
Your knowledge of the AHC is impressive. A picture of what you think would work best would be very welcome.
I measure the rocker (from front to rear) as 72.5 inches. I'm using the point where the sheet metal joins in the front behind the mud flap bracket to the back of the sheet metal joint near the rear wheel well.
I can't see how a tire could get bigger than this, and if I do need more clearance for a tire that big (37s?), I am so far down the mod route that trimming the sliders will be the least of worries.
Was thinking 72" for the slider length. That gives (edit - damn return key) a bit of wiggle front back, and should provide maximum protection. Thoughts?
2nd edit - Width at front (from sheet metal joint at bottom of rocker) - 6". Back - 8". I'm thinking of adding 1", so 7" wide front and 9" wide back. Thoughts?
I can't see how a tire could get bigger than this, and if I do need more clearance for a tire that big (37s?), I am so far down the mod route that trimming the sliders will be the least of worries.
Was thinking 72" for the slider length. That gives (edit - damn return key) a bit of wiggle front back, and should provide maximum protection. Thoughts?
2nd edit - Width at front (from sheet metal joint at bottom of rocker) - 6". Back - 8". I'm thinking of adding 1", so 7" wide front and 9" wide back. Thoughts?
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I took a 2x4 under the rig to check on fitment for slider parts. Minor issues!
1) The accumulators go rail to seam, which means that a slider can't be 'under' the rocker the full length centered, which is the usual install position. They'll either need to be angled out front to back to clear, or just put on the outside of the seam. For extra points I guess they could be bent around the accumulators, but that seems a bit fiddly for what it would net.
2) The vertical drop on the AHC parts is 3" or so. There will be a pretty good gap - maybe 1 1/4" if the slider legs/attachments are also going to be used as AHC shielding anchors (even or slightly below the lowest AHC stuff.
As the slider is now outside of seam reducing the total slider rail to rail width to 6 1/2" front and 7 1/2" back.
1) The accumulators go rail to seam, which means that a slider can't be 'under' the rocker the full length centered, which is the usual install position. They'll either need to be angled out front to back to clear, or just put on the outside of the seam. For extra points I guess they could be bent around the accumulators, but that seems a bit fiddly for what it would net.
2) The vertical drop on the AHC parts is 3" or so. There will be a pretty good gap - maybe 1 1/4" if the slider legs/attachments are also going to be used as AHC shielding anchors (even or slightly below the lowest AHC stuff.
As the slider is now outside of seam reducing the total slider rail to rail width to 6 1/2" front and 7 1/2" back.
My two cents: I've run my stock '09 570 on lots of dry desert dirt roads for a couple of years, often at 30-50 mph sustained for miles. The stock slider bars are very stout but because they are not bars, not plates, the AHC globes take a lot of abuse from the front tire roost, as they're in line with the front tires. My globes are bare metal from constant sand blasting. For what I do, and it can get gnarly, it would be nice if there was a cover plate available without having to go the whole slider route discussed above. I've scratched some paint but this thing is a beast and I haven't seen the need, not yet anyway.
Yeah, you could just get some plastic sheet and metal zip tie it to the rods @lookinfwd21
Excellent and obvious idea, thanks.