Great write-up. The process is very similar to the 100 series LX470. I look forward to the front end write-up.
Lx570 Rear Suspension Rebuild [Guide] (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter nwfl4runner
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Bump for updates on the front-end rebuild. What's the word, OP?
That shock shaft is huge, did you measure it?
nwfl4runner
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- Thread starter
- #24
I’ll finish up the write up and post! Front end was so much easier except for the UCA torque!
Unfortunately, like a moron, I threw it away. Really should have taken measurements and measured stroke. Gonna have to find a junkyard one to take apart
I have a new set in my shed. Planning to replace when I add spacers to front and rear and replace globes. I can measure those things real quick on the new ones I guess.
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Eyeballing the shaft, that looks larger than 1". That's like Kings 4.0 diameters. The idea is similar in that it's to displace as much hydraulic fluid as possible, to increase a shocks damping sensitivity and damping force. IIRC, with the AHC rear shock, the damping elements are all remote, so maybe it's pushing even more fluid. As AHC is to provide damping and support, makes sense it needs to displace lots of fluid.
Been brainstorming how to increase suspension stroke in the rear to get a long travel function while maintaining. That may ultimately be AHCs limitation as the aftermarket has more long travel solutions.
Been brainstorming how to increase suspension stroke in the rear to get a long travel function while maintaining. That may ultimately be AHCs limitation as the aftermarket has more long travel solutions.
nwfl4runner
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- Thread starter
- #27
Wonder if a machine shop could machine a longer shaft and a competent welder just tig an extension onto the main body. Would the valving be impacted by additional volume? I wouldn’t think so?
OP, do you know off hand the thickness of the OEM coil spacer? Thanks!
nwfl4runner
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- Thread starter
- #29
Not off the top of my head but I’ll measure it tomorrow for you - guesstimate as I sit here is around 10-12mm
10mm
Very nice detail on all the parts and work involved. Now you have me thinking I need to go check all my bushings and parts to see what needs some love.
Glad this resource is here.
This question is for anyone
Would it make sense to replace the shock bushing but not the shock? Partsorq is out of one of the coils at the moment so I was going to skip the coil/shocks and (pay someone else to) do all the other items in addition to replacing globes and fluid.
I'm at 210k and I would be thrilled if I could get this driving like new. The way it rides now I just drive the 80.
thank you
This question is for anyone
Would it make sense to replace the shock bushing but not the shock? Partsorq is out of one of the coils at the moment so I was going to skip the coil/shocks and (pay someone else to) do all the other items in addition to replacing globes and fluid.
I'm at 210k and I would be thrilled if I could get this driving like new. The way it rides now I just drive the 80.
thank you
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #33
While the shocks are just large voids, the only concern I’d have is the o-rings that seal inside breaking down over time with heat/use. With the amount of work necessary to get to the bushings, I’d wait rather than disassemble to do a bushing knowing that at 210k, they’re ready for a refresh
I assume you are on an LX570 w/ AHC? If the shocks are not leaking, you can leave them alone. I would concentrate on new globes/accumulators and fresh fluid first. Replacing those and flushing fresh fluid into the system will make a huge difference on most LX's. There's a great thread with tons of good info from people who have tackled the globe replacement: LX570 AHC Globe/Accumulator Replacement - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lx570-ahc-globe-accumulator-replacement.1193703/
DownTheRoad
GOLD Star
@nwfl4runner Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. I came across your post after inquiring how to replace the "rubber donuts" which I thought were bump stops, but learned they are sway bar bushings. This should tell you I have zero experience in this area. Yet, after reading your post a few times, I somehow feel that I can tackle this project in my driveway with my Harbor Freight tools (does it matter that I have some of the Pittsburgh Pro ones?) and my menagerie of different garage sale finds, a few craftsman and a few husky tools. No Ugga Dugga, but some proper torque bars. So, adding the parts to my shopping cart and thinking I need to treat myself to some proper tools if I'm going to tackle it. Yeah, I've been told I'm crazy. 
.
Anyone have a parts list for the front?
This all started when I noticed the rubber donuts were cracked, when I was thinking of replacing the globes and bleeding the AHC fluid.
Picture of the rubber donut
. Anyone have a parts list for the front?
This all started when I noticed the rubber donuts were cracked, when I was thinking of replacing the globes and bleeding the AHC fluid.
Picture of the rubber donut
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #36
You got it man - it's a tedious job, but as long as you have the right tools in advance it'll go quickly! I'll dig up the front list from when I did the swap, but that ones a lot easier. If investing in a few tools, for this job I'd recommend a high quality 22/24mm offset box and an extra long 17/19mm box end wrench. Those 2 get a lot of use on this job.
If you're doing the whole thing at once it makes for an easier time as you can break everything down, and reassemble piece by piece, instead of forcing stuff in and out.
If you're doing the whole thing at once it makes for an easier time as you can break everything down, and reassemble piece by piece, instead of forcing stuff in and out.
@nwfl4runner this should be a sticky. Did you ever get around to authoring a front suspension rebuild? Cannot seem to find it.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #38
When I went to rebuild the front, I got drunk and woke up with a tundra swapped front on 37s, so unfortunately I kinda screwed that up
Thanks for the writeup @nwfl4runner. I just replaced all four shocks and your post was helpful in supplementing the TIS.
It's worth noting that the new rear shocks are an upgrade over the original. I replace mine because the rear lower face was dented from impacts and rusting, and, well, they’re 11 years old. The new version of the shock has a bash plate.
A few notes on the job. I fiddled with the 22mm rear shock mounting nut for a little bit and then just cut both shocks off. MUCH faster and far less frustration. I used a thick metal (7tpi) carbide sawsall blade that went through them in just a few minutes. Disconnect the control pressure hose first and extend the shock to pull the hydraulic fluid farther down or it will make a bit of a mess (and lubricate your blade!). Once I had it off and could see the actual nut and all the corrosion it was clear it would have been an epic and futile struggle to try to unscrew it.
To reassemble I also did not follow the FSM instruction to first connect the shock to the axle. It actually makes everything more difficult. Instead, compress the shock fully, fill it with AHC fluid, and cap it. Install and align the included washer and lower bushing, put the upper bushing in place in the frame and feed the shock up through the hole in the frame and the upper bushing. Align the tab, seat everything as flush as possible and start the 22mm nut by hand. (Side note: the washer is included with the shock but not shown in the FSM. If you install without it there is too much play in the upper sleeve.) Without the bottom of the shock connected to the axle you can hold the shock bushing face flush to the frame and get the nut started by hand. I used a 22mm 1/2” socket and Knipex channel locks to tighten and it worked quite well! The Knipex teeth are sharp enough to bite the socket when leading with the lower jaw. Just tighten till it won't twist anymore (you'll know--the whole shock will flex and it just won't go farther).
The front shocks are easier to get in and out, but on the whole take longer transferring the spring and getting everything lined up correctly. The FSM doesn't call for it, but I pre-filled all my shocks with AHC fluid before install. I filled and installed the rears fully compressed, and the fronts at neutral with the spring installed.
FWIW, I replaced all four shocks, four suspension control accumulators (globes), and the two rear suspension control accumulator no.3s (cylinders--they were rusted... and expensive). The whole job with bleeds took exactly 7.5L of AHC fluid.
It's worth noting that the new rear shocks are an upgrade over the original. I replace mine because the rear lower face was dented from impacts and rusting, and, well, they’re 11 years old. The new version of the shock has a bash plate.
A few notes on the job. I fiddled with the 22mm rear shock mounting nut for a little bit and then just cut both shocks off. MUCH faster and far less frustration. I used a thick metal (7tpi) carbide sawsall blade that went through them in just a few minutes. Disconnect the control pressure hose first and extend the shock to pull the hydraulic fluid farther down or it will make a bit of a mess (and lubricate your blade!). Once I had it off and could see the actual nut and all the corrosion it was clear it would have been an epic and futile struggle to try to unscrew it.
To reassemble I also did not follow the FSM instruction to first connect the shock to the axle. It actually makes everything more difficult. Instead, compress the shock fully, fill it with AHC fluid, and cap it. Install and align the included washer and lower bushing, put the upper bushing in place in the frame and feed the shock up through the hole in the frame and the upper bushing. Align the tab, seat everything as flush as possible and start the 22mm nut by hand. (Side note: the washer is included with the shock but not shown in the FSM. If you install without it there is too much play in the upper sleeve.) Without the bottom of the shock connected to the axle you can hold the shock bushing face flush to the frame and get the nut started by hand. I used a 22mm 1/2” socket and Knipex channel locks to tighten and it worked quite well! The Knipex teeth are sharp enough to bite the socket when leading with the lower jaw. Just tighten till it won't twist anymore (you'll know--the whole shock will flex and it just won't go farther).
The front shocks are easier to get in and out, but on the whole take longer transferring the spring and getting everything lined up correctly. The FSM doesn't call for it, but I pre-filled all my shocks with AHC fluid before install. I filled and installed the rears fully compressed, and the fronts at neutral with the spring installed.
FWIW, I replaced all four shocks, four suspension control accumulators (globes), and the two rear suspension control accumulator no.3s (cylinders--they were rusted... and expensive). The whole job with bleeds took exactly 7.5L of AHC fluid.
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