LX470 Big Brake Kit install (2 Viewers)

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Jim_Chow

V8_Fan
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Apr 28, 2003
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Spent New Year’s Day installing new Stoptech BBK (thanks to bjowett!). Also installed new rear slotted Stoptech rotors. Installation went pretty smoothly. Only difficulties where the old rotor had seized to the hub, so I had to soak with PB Blaster and use a screwdriver and sledge to gently separate them. I tried trimming the splash guards (can’t really bend them back since there are some suspension components very close, so insufficient spacing). In the end, I removed the splash guards as suggested in the instructions. I kept the old caliper with brake lines all connected and connected up the new brake lines after mounting the caliper, then loosened the hard line and quickly swapped the brake line connected to the old caliper with the new brake line connected to the new caliper. This minimized fluid loss plus the kit doesn’t come with those black brake line caps mentioned in the instructions. Getting the brake line clip reinstalled was a pain. Had to remove a nut holding the AHC sensor first to access.

Took a spin around the block. Braking is far better. I’ll bed the rotors tomorrow. BTW, I’m using Porterfield R4s pads for the Porsche 911 turbo.

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What’s the size difference? How much is the kit?
First photo shows the OEM caliper below. Stoptech calipers for the 100 series have 42mm and 44mm pistons. Calipers are a tad thinner than OEM. I’m running 2006 18 in wheels. The OEM calipers had maybe 1/8 in clearance. Stoptech calipers have around 1/4 in clearance. I go mine in the classified ads on this forum from bjowett for a great deal. Otherwise the kits are like $2.5-3.5k
 
Separating rotor from hub.

ATF works much better than PB blaster. I scrape and power washer hub. Then, before taking out rotor bolts. Pour some AFT, in rotor hat/hub. Place rotor/hub assembly in a catch basin overnight.

Rotor frt, PB + ATF overnight soak (1).JPEG

Place rotor on wooden blocks, suspending wheel hub. Using a dead blow hammer, pound out hub from rotor. Dead blow hammer, works much better than plastic shown here. Just never use steel hammer or even forged brass, they is to hard and will damage hub.
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Pound hub out with dead blow or lead hammer.
Rotor frt R&R 2.JPG
 
I used one of the wheels turned upside down to work on the hub/rotor when torquing the rotor bolts. I also use a 2x4 block and hammer to seat the oil seal for the inner bearing after a repack.

Anyways, got the rotors bedded in the following morning, two sets of 10 slow downs from 60 to 10mph with a cool down in between sets and left it overnight to cool w/o coming to a stop. Braking performance is far superior to before (slotted rotors, R4s pads, SS lines, stock calipers/rotors), which was already an improvement over OEM. I don’t have to apply much pedal force to stop the truck. Maybe even better braking than my LS430 with Stoptech rotors, SS lines, Porterfield R4s pads. Rotors are 355mm. Stock is around 331mm.

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SWEET! I am looking to do the same thing. Researching some LX570 brembo kits as well.
 
Can you share more info on the product itself, links? Also do you have additional pictures of the spindle bracket to the BBK calipers? Thank you.
 
OE brakes are more than adequate for stopping. The 'weak link' in the braking system isn't the rotors, the calipers or ever the pads. It's the tyres.

Do this test. Drive at about 30km/hr and jump on the brake pedal as hard and as fast as you can, use both feet! What happens? The tyres begin to slip and the ABS releases the brake to stop the tyres skidding. You can change the rotors and calipers and the pads, but those tyres are still going to let go at exactly the same point.

Want to improve your brakes? Upgrade your tyres, that's the only way to do it.

Chris.....

Think I'm full of it? Then watch this video ->
 
OE brakes are more than adequate for stopping. The 'weak link' in the braking system isn't the rotors, the calipers or ever the pads. It's the tyres.

Do this test. Drive at about 30km/hr and jump on the brake pedal as hard and as fast as you can, use both feet! What happens? The tyres begin to slip and the ABS releases the brake to stop the tyres skidding. You can change the rotors and calipers and the pads, but those tyres are still going to let go at exactly the same point.

Want to improve your brakes? Upgrade your tyres, that's the only way to do it.

Chris.....

Think I'm full of it? Then watch this video ->


This isn’t about “performance braking”. This is a solution to increasing weight of the vehicle by half a ton or more and driving down mountain roads as you’ll often find in the western U.S. Even with engine braking, larger rotors that dissipate heat more efficiently are a very good thing.

I seriously considered buying this very kit but I was concerned about the potential lack of support from an aftermarket manufacturer in the future.
 
Will 17”wheels fit with the larger rotors? I am super heavy and bigger brakes would be nice.
 
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I used one of the wheels turned upside down to work on the hub/rotor when torquing the rotor bolts. I also use a 2x4 block and hammer to seat the oil seal for the inner bearing after a repack.

Anyways, got the rotors bedded in the following morning, two sets of 10 slow downs from 60 to 10mph with a cool down in between sets and left it overnight to cool w/o coming to a stop. Braking performance is far superior to before (slotted rotors, R4s pads, SS lines, stock calipers/rotors), which was already an improvement over OEM. I don’t have to apply much pedal force to stop the truck. Maybe even better braking than my LS430 with Stoptech rotors, SS lines, Porterfield R4s pads. Rotors are 355mm. Stock is around 331mm.

View attachment 3808958
VA LX470 Blizzak Crew (Pizza Cutter Division) Reporting For Duty :D

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Can you share more info on the product itself, links? Also do you have additional pictures of the spindle bracket to the BBK calipers? Thank you.
Bracket appear to be CNC machined and anodized aluminum. There are two 10mm Allen head bolts that attach the bracket to the vehicle at 90 ft-lbs torque. The heads of the allen bolts are countersunk into the bracket so they are just about flush when tightened. As you can see, the face of the adapter that faces outward is flush with where the OEM caliper would attach. Seems to me any competent machinist could fabricate adapters for just about any calipers you choose as long as they clear the inside of the wheel. There is an article by Stoptech that shows they test all kinds of caliper/rotor combinations on the vehicles to ensure proper front/rear bias. One shouldn’t just install the largest calipers/rotors possible since this may result in inadequate rear braking. The ST40 calipers fit standard Porsche 911 turbo pads. The Porterfield R4s pads come with a metal backing plate attached, but I added a shim and put disc brake grease on the side facing the backing of the pad. For these calipers, I could only find titanium shims, so figure $100 for those.

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