LX470 2004 | Need help with Android Screen (29 Viewers)

[ScotyDosentKnow]

If you’re installing in a LC and replacing the amp, I think you’re fine following the advice in this thread. What amp are you planning on using?

There was someone on here that installed a Soundstream picasso nano 5 channel and seemed happy with it. I may give that a try since they are reasonably priced and Im not looking for incredible sound just better than the blown out factory speakers and non functioning sub. A while back I purchased all new door speakers and a Skar sub for the rear but never installed them as I ended up wanting to do the Teye's

 

[beegeezy]

There was someone on here that installed a Soundstream picasso nano 5 channel and seemed happy with it. I may give that a try since they are reasonably priced and Im not looking for incredible sound just better than the blown out factory speakers and non functioning sub. A while back I purchased all new door speakers and a Skar sub for the rear but never installed them as I ended up wanting to do the Teye's

Soundstream isn’t great these days, but it’s probably ok if you just need some basic sound.

 

[wbwufpack]

Turd ,

Are you using Android auto without connectivity issues? I'm trying to figure out if my frustrations (not connecting 1/3 of the time requiring a hard reset of the Car Link app) are commonplace or unique to my setup.

I have the same issue running a Google Pixel 7. I can either fumble my way through the interface to do a hard reset of the Car Link app or plug in for a hard wired connection. I confirmed that the phone is connected to the head unit via Bluetooth, even when Car Link is not functioning, because the Teyes bluetooth music app works.
Since the issue appears to be related to the Car Link app would somebody (with more programming skills than me) be able to write a script that simply reboots the Car Link app with the push of a single button? Car Link reboots fairly quickly, but it is annoying to have to navigate through the settings menu to find it and reboot. If the process could be reduced to a customized single button the majority of my frustrations would go away.
The alternative is to see how the various Teyes apps function without using Car Link/Android Auto/Carplay which I haven't really explored.

Also......based on your screen name we appear to be rivals when it comes to college sports. If we do find somebody to write a script we need chapelheels head unit to display "Go Pack!" on startup.

 

[revoked]

There was someone on here that installed a Soundstream picasso nano 5 channel and seemed happy with it. I may give that a try since they are reasonably priced and Im not looking for incredible sound just better than the blown out factory speakers and non functioning sub. A while back I purchased all new door speakers and a Skar sub for the rear but never installed them as I ended up wanting to do the Teye's

I just installed using that amp, fits under the seat nice and was easy to work with. Not going for anything high end on my rig.

 

[revoked]

Working on my rearview camera setup. Wanted OEM+ fit and finish. I modified the block off plate from a Slee camera relocation kit to accept the Teyes camera.
Modified blanking plate:
View attachment 3873913
With camera and gasket installed.
View attachment 3873914
I used M3 hardware to mount the camera and used the supplied adhesive mount modified to fit around the gasket. 1/2in hole is required to allow the RCA connector and wiring to pass through.

Does anyone know if the OEM camera wiring harness has provision for a reverse signal? I pulled the EWD - below.
View attachment 3873930

Great idea. I made a janky plate out of some ABS, but it's bugging me. Does Slee sell these?

 

[jtb517]

Great idea. I made a janky plate out of some ABS, but it's bugging me. Does Slee sell these?

Yep. SLEE - Back Up Camera Relocation Kit - '98-'07 Land Cruiser/LX470 - Slee Off Road - https://sleeoffroad.com/products/sok1231/

 

[ScotyDosentKnow]

I just installed using that amp, fits under the seat nice and was easy to work with. Not going for anything high end on my rig.

Good to know! My stock system sounds horrible, sub isnt working and I believe most speakers are blown. If I can get stock or better sound with an updated headunit it will be a win.

Is your truck a LC or LX? Any issues with humming after installation? Did you use a Metra harness to install the amp?

 

[revoked]

Good to know! My stock system sounds horrible, sub isnt working and I believe most speakers are blown. If I can get stock or better sound with an updated headunit it will be a win.

Is your truck a LC or LX? Any issues with humming after installation? Did you use a Metra harness to install the amp?

LC. No hum, and yes - I used the Metra harness.

 

[beegeezy]

Anyone with the t'eyes unit having issues with carplay audio cutting in and out? My carplay stays connected but audio (pandora and music on my phone) will intermittently drop, similar to a loose cable that drops audio as you wiggle it. No issues with FM doing this, so this is a bluetooth/wifi issue with carplay and the t'eyes, I suppose. I had a similar issue with the Xtrons in my 955 Cayenne, which was resolved with a firmware update. I'm curious if anyone has had this problem and if a firmware update was the solution.

 

[bcarbs]

Anyone with the t'eyes unit having issues with carplay audio cutting in and out? My carplay stays connected but audio (pandora and music on my phone) will intermittently drop, similar to a loose cable that drops audio as you wiggle it. No issues with FM doing this, so this is a bluetooth/wifi issue with carplay and the t'eyes, I suppose. I had a similar issue with the Xtrons in my 955 Cayenne, which was resolved with a firmware update. I'm curious if anyone has had this problem and if a firmware update was the solution.

I experience this too but super intermittent- like a second or two and maybe once a trip if I’m lucky. Haven’t tried a firmware update yet.

 

[beegeezy]

I experience this too but super intermittent- like a second or two and maybe once a trip if I’m lucky. Haven’t tried a firmware update yet.

Mine is doing it every drive…maybe 10-15 times for a second or two over a 20 minute trip. I’ll see if a firmware update helps and report back.

 

[jtb517]

I’ve noticed my wireless CarPlay audio cutting out sometimes but only seems to happen when I leave my phone in my pocket.

 

[mrfixit747]

2004 LC with NAV

Its my turn now, Im Knee deep in this so I can confirm the functionality of most of the install, Some before me installed a funky blue tooth system into called a parrot, Im in the process of undoing all of that (including where they spliced this think into all the speakers just short of the amp, bit of a mess.

I have hung the whole assembly in and confined I have air conditioning functions and looks like most everything else, no sound yet but I have a lot of wire repairs to be done.

When I ordered the teyes c3 it noted I had to split the nav screen in order for it to work, I discovered that I needed the board that plugged into the original harness on the top (that is part of the original nav display)

I am not space challenged, so I have a couple of questions

do I need the black stand alone a/c amplifier that is with the nav screen and tape deck

AC would not function or come up without the original nav screen attached I was able to program and use with that attached and I broke the screen down to the single card and found that with everything plugged in, the card for screen control and the amp everything worked, and worked well

if I do need that does anyone have any images of how they included that black box as well and the remains of the original nav display

If I need all that its space challenged in there, any tips on how to mount/relocate it all

any help would be appreciated, all the 42 pages in here are been very very helpful but found no descriptions or images on which reinstilation

I have included a couple of pictures to see the wiring I have to put back to stock before I can even see if I have the audio hiss or now

 

[mrfixit747]

2004 LC with NAV

Its my turn now, Im Knee deep in this so I can confirm the functionality of most of the install, Some before me installed a funky blue tooth system into called a parrot, Im in the process of undoing all of that (including where they spliced this think into all the speakers just short of the amp, bit of a mess.

I have hung the whole assembly in and confined I have air conditioning functions and looks like most everything else, no sound yet but I have a lot of wire repairs to be done.

When I ordered the teyes c3 it noted I had to split the nav screen in order for it to work, I discovered that I needed the board that plugged into the original harness on the top (that is part of the original nav display)

I am not space challenged, so I have a couple of questions

do I need the black stand alone a/c amplifier that is with the nav screen and tape deck

AC would not function or come up without the original nav screen attached I was able to program and use with that attached and I broke the screen down to the single card and found that with everything plugged in, the card for screen control and the amp everything worked, and worked well

if I do need that does anyone have any images of how they included that black box as well and the remains of the original nav display

If I need all that its space challenged in there, any tips on how to mount/relocate it all

any help would be appreciated, all the 42 pages in here are been very very helpful but found no descriptions or images on which reinstilation

I have included a couple of pictures to see the wiring I have to put back to stock before I can even see if I have the audio hiss or now

 

[Coin]

My original screen is slowly dying, so I just ordered the T'Eyes. Looking forward to the upgrade!

 

[chapelheel]

I have the same issue running a Google Pixel 7. I can either fumble my way through the interface to do a hard reset of the Car Link app or plug in for a hard wired connection. I confirmed that the phone is connected to the head unit via Bluetooth, even when Car Link is not functioning, because the Teyes bluetooth music app works.
Since the issue appears to be related to the Car Link app would somebody (with more programming skills than me) be able to write a script that simply reboots the Car Link app with the push of a single button? Car Link reboots fairly quickly, but it is annoying to have to navigate through the settings menu to find it and reboot. If the process could be reduced to a customized single button the majority of my frustrations would go away.
The alternative is to see how the various Teyes apps function without using Car Link/Android Auto/Carplay which I haven't really explored.

Also......based on your screen name we appear to be rivals when it comes to college sports. If we do find somebody to write a script we need chapelheels head unit to display "Go Pack!" on startup.

Lolz I'd take that hit to have a simple reset feature!

 

[bcarbs]

2004 LC with NAV

Its my turn now, Im Knee deep in this so I can confirm the functionality of most of the install, Some before me installed a funky blue tooth system into called a parrot, Im in the process of undoing all of that (including where they spliced this think into all the speakers just short of the amp, bit of a mess.

I have hung the whole assembly in and confined I have air conditioning functions and looks like most everything else, no sound yet but I have a lot of wire repairs to be done.

When I ordered the teyes c3 it noted I had to split the nav screen in order for it to work, I discovered that I needed the board that plugged into the original harness on the top (that is part of the original nav display)

I am not space challenged, so I have a couple of questions

do I need the black stand alone a/c amplifier that is with the nav screen and tape deck

AC would not function or come up without the original nav screen attached I was able to program and use with that attached and I broke the screen down to the single card and found that with everything plugged in, the card for screen control and the amp everything worked, and worked well

if I do need that does anyone have any images of how they included that black box as well and the remains of the original nav display

If I need all that its space challenged in there, any tips on how to mount/relocate it all

any help would be appreciated, all the 42 pages in here are been very very helpful but found no descriptions or images on which reinstilation

I have included a couple of pictures to see the wiring I have to put back to stock before I can even see if I have the audio hiss or now

^^This is how I have mine put back in - plug what fits back into that black box and shove it behind the Teyes screen.

 

[Coin]

I started the install this morning. I have the stereo and HVAC working, then updated over wifi. I have to say this sounds SOOO much better than the stock stereo! My PO installed some nice JL Audio speakers several years back, along with an 8" sub box in the back. I used to wonder if the sub had a problem. Well, I now know for certain their is no issue with the sub. It just needed a better headunit to give it more power.

I still need to pull out my old Grom Bluetooth unit and secure the wifi and GPS antennas, as well as route my backup camera. But so far I am very pleased with my purchase. FYI, I bought the 32GB 2K version with upgraded Sony camera.

 

[Coin]

I have a couple of questions for you guys with successfull installs.

1. Did you install the power filter? I did not and seem to have some buzz when all music is muted.
2. This is more in depth, and I apologize, I am not a car audio guy. My PO installed JL audio speakers, a 8' sub box, and there is an aftermarket amp installed in the passenger rear carbo area. It looks like they spliced the amp speaker/RCA wires into the stock ML amp under the passenger seat. I have an amp on/off switch and gain dial in the center console. I'm wondering if now that the stock screen is gone, can I remove the ML amp all together? I did unplug the connections from the ML amp, but then the Teyes unit would not turn on. Can I run RCA's from Teyes to the amp in the rear?

 

[beegeezy]

I have a couple of questions for you guys with successfull installs.

1. Did you install the power filter? I did not and seem to have some buzz when all music is muted.
2. This is more in depth, and I apologize, I am not a car audio guy. My PO installed JL audio speakers, a 8' sub box, and there is an aftermarket amp installed in the passenger rear carbo area. It looks like they spliced the amp speaker/RCA wires into the stock ML amp under the passenger seat. I have an amp on/off switch and gain dial in the center console. I'm wondering if now that the stock screen is gone, can I remove the ML amp all together? I did unplug the connections from the ML amp, but then the Teyes unit would not turn on. Can I run RCA's from Teyes to the amp in the rear?

1. No, but I only get some static when the volume knob in the center stack is turned up high. If you keep it lower and adjust the volume with the steering wheel controls, the static is reduced or eliminated. You can also adjust the power setting in the menu to help this issue.

2. What is the aftermarket amp powering? You can remove the ML amp but you’ll need an amp with enough channels to replace it. The front door speakers are 4 channels (midbass & midrange/tweeter), I think the rear speakers are 2 channels (4” mid and tweeter), and the original subwoofer was powered off the ML amp too. It depends how deep down the rabbit hole you want to go. The best option would be to replace the ML amp with a 9+ channel DSP amp (or 7 if you don’t want rear speakers). Helix ($$$) or Audison ($$$) make the best ones IMO. One benefit of this is control over each channel and also you can use the digital output from the t’eyes to avoid using the RCA output (which I’ve heard is noisy). A less expensive and less complicated option would be to replace the front speakers with a 3 way component set (but you might have issues finding a drop in replacement for the 2-1/4” midrange) and run a 4 channel amp (front + rear) to go with your existing amp, assuming it’s a mono or 2 channel amp for the subwoofer only