Making good progress. Why do you say fuel Iift pump is bad? I chased a no start issue for a long time typically air in the system. I had to bleed injectors every time I started it till I found my air leak. Mine index up being the tank banjo fitting.
LX450 6BT/NV4500/Split Case Conversion
- Thread starter JuliosLX450
- Start date
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Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
Do you mean the fuel shut off solenoid On the driver side of block?
Also hard if you don't have a working AC compressor. I still need to adjust mine. It's a bit low now that I got my tach adjusted correctly. It's easy enough to adjust.
Some photos of that would be great.
- Thread starter
- #87
We pressurized the Fuel tank to pump the fuel to the "FLP" -Fuel Lift Pump- banjo and it flowed no problem.
We then removed then banjo from the VE Pump and manually pumped the FLP and got nothing flowing out of the VE Pump banjo. That's why we figured it has to be the FLP.
However, now that I think about it some more.
We didn't check if the FLP will pump past its own banjo bolt, so that's the next step to check I think. I know fuel does flow to it because we already forced it with air.
I guess I need to do some more troubleshooting before spending money on something I may not need.
PS: I'll lost some more pics and details of the drivetrain install.
I have a few things I want to post but time is my constraint atm.
We then removed then banjo from the VE Pump and manually pumped the FLP and got nothing flowing out of the VE Pump banjo. That's why we figured it has to be the FLP.
However, now that I think about it some more.
We didn't check if the FLP will pump past its own banjo bolt, so that's the next step to check I think. I know fuel does flow to it because we already forced it with air.
I guess I need to do some more troubleshooting before spending money on something I may not need.
PS: I'll lost some more pics and details of the drivetrain install.
I have a few things I want to post but time is my constraint atm.
- Thread starter
- #89
Got it running again...started it a few times and were good now!!!
Turns out the was air in the system.
1) checked the FLP (fuel lift pump) at the first banjo bolt on the fuel filter and it flowed no problem
**at that point it was obvious that the FLP was functioning the way its supposed to.
2) checked the banjo bolt on the injection pump.....DOH, that banjo bolt flows air into the pump I think. Chased the line and found the correct one, cracked it and purged....sure enough, some bubbles then some fuel.
3) tried starting and nothing still
4) started checking the injectors. the first one had a bunch of air, ( at this point I was no longer purging the system with the FLP, but rather cranking the engine) kept messing with it until it was flowing. opened up all 6 injectors and they all had air.
So that was the issue....air pockets on the injector lines. LESSON LEARNED
I took a video but its probably too long and I couldn't upload it to photobucket.
Thank you all for the input.
couple things:
1) The Tachometer is working and I got the revs dialed in....running at 750 now
2) The temperature and alternator gauges are working
3) NOT WORKING is the fuel and oil gauges. Anyone know what's up with that?
The Fuel gauge should be working, if the harness was wired correctly.....right?
The Oil Pressure gauge on the other hand, im not sure how that would be working. I mean, I haven't hooked up any oil sensors
Next steps:
A - Figure out Oil Pressure Sensor
B - Figure out Fuel Tank Sensor
C - Get missing hardware for the AC lines and wire up the AC Pump
D - Deal with a small Oil leak
E - Charge AC System
D - Button-up the engine bay
Turns out the was air in the system.
1) checked the FLP (fuel lift pump) at the first banjo bolt on the fuel filter and it flowed no problem
**at that point it was obvious that the FLP was functioning the way its supposed to.
2) checked the banjo bolt on the injection pump.....DOH, that banjo bolt flows air into the pump I think. Chased the line and found the correct one, cracked it and purged....sure enough, some bubbles then some fuel.
3) tried starting and nothing still
4) started checking the injectors. the first one had a bunch of air, ( at this point I was no longer purging the system with the FLP, but rather cranking the engine) kept messing with it until it was flowing. opened up all 6 injectors and they all had air.
So that was the issue....air pockets on the injector lines. LESSON LEARNED
I took a video but its probably too long and I couldn't upload it to photobucket.
Thank you all for the input.
couple things:
1) The Tachometer is working and I got the revs dialed in....running at 750 now
2) The temperature and alternator gauges are working
3) NOT WORKING is the fuel and oil gauges. Anyone know what's up with that?
The Fuel gauge should be working, if the harness was wired correctly.....right?
The Oil Pressure gauge on the other hand, im not sure how that would be working. I mean, I haven't hooked up any oil sensors
Next steps:
A - Figure out Oil Pressure Sensor
B - Figure out Fuel Tank Sensor
C - Get missing hardware for the AC lines and wire up the AC Pump
D - Deal with a small Oil leak
E - Charge AC System
D - Button-up the engine bay
No start up video?
- Thread starter
- #91
I think I'm in love!!!!
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
Congrats!!! She is purring very nicely. Its surprising how much room there appears to be in the engine bay still.
Now tell us about the trans fitment and the clutch hydraulic setup you went with.
Now tell us about the trans fitment and the clutch hydraulic setup you went with.
Good work man 
Looking good... Let me know when you're ready for a Hale creek shakedown run
Very nice!
Oh man can't wait. Being I am using a nv4500 I would be curious to see some undercarriage and crossmember photos. Sounds great and looks like a clean install.
- Thread starter
- #97
Currently working on adapting the Dodge Clutch hydronic setup.
I figured if I can get the mounting figured out (which will be the hard part), then the rest should be smooth sailing since it's the setup that works with this drivetrain.
Alternatively I'll have to go with a Toyota slave cylinder, but I'm confident we (my buddy is helping me figure this out and the shifters after) will make it work!
Ulysse: I'm aiming to be done by next weekend. Shakedown run the weekend after that, so mark your calendar!
I figured if I can get the mounting figured out (which will be the hard part), then the rest should be smooth sailing since it's the setup that works with this drivetrain.
Alternatively I'll have to go with a Toyota slave cylinder, but I'm confident we (my buddy is helping me figure this out and the shifters after) will make it work!
Ulysse: I'm aiming to be done by next weekend. Shakedown run the weekend after that, so mark your calendar!
- Thread starter
- #98
Clutch pedal, Clutch Master & Slave cylinders are installed!
NOTE: I used a 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 set-up, which is the same one that I got the clutch housing and tranny from!
It's was quite the process, but nothing too complicated.
1) this is the existing opening where the master cylinder and the clutch bucket is supposed to mount
2) my buddy drilled both holes on the firewall for the clutch bucket to mount.
He also had to drill two holes on the clutch bucket for the existing threads on the inside of the firewall. Bottom Left is one hole and bottom Right is the second hole but you can't see it because the bolt is on the way.
3) picture above shows a rimmed out spacer - on the Top Left. Drilled it to be able to fit a bolt as snug as possible with out any play.
4) made a cardboard template of the clutch bucket and drilled the holes on a 1/4" thick aluminum channel. This piece will be used to clamp the clutch bucket to the firewall.
As you can see, the top right spacer sticks out a bit and so does the bottom. Washers will be used to deal with this.
5) checking fitment and trimmed the spacer to keep it from interfering with the Master Cylinder.
6) starting on the Master Cylinder Mount.
Because there was only two bolts to work with, I made it to fit on an angle.
7) this part was a slow process. I didn't want to mess this up, so I decided to do it by hand with a file. Traced the Master Cylinder flange and filed away. The goal was to be able to twist lock it, the way an oem unit would fit.
8) my buddy found me a rubber washer that he sliced in half and worked perfect to make the twist action flawless.
I used a dust boot from the transfer case shifter that I had and it was a perfect fit.
Mind you it took a while to feed/pull it through the firewall.
9) here it is all finished, mounted and solid!
10) had to replace the Slave Cylinder because I lost the rod that pushes the clutch in! Of course had to bleed the line.
The bends on the line worked out perfect!!
NOTE: I used a 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 set-up, which is the same one that I got the clutch housing and tranny from!
It's was quite the process, but nothing too complicated.
1) this is the existing opening where the master cylinder and the clutch bucket is supposed to mount
2) my buddy drilled both holes on the firewall for the clutch bucket to mount.
He also had to drill two holes on the clutch bucket for the existing threads on the inside of the firewall. Bottom Left is one hole and bottom Right is the second hole but you can't see it because the bolt is on the way.
3) picture above shows a rimmed out spacer - on the Top Left. Drilled it to be able to fit a bolt as snug as possible with out any play.
4) made a cardboard template of the clutch bucket and drilled the holes on a 1/4" thick aluminum channel. This piece will be used to clamp the clutch bucket to the firewall.
As you can see, the top right spacer sticks out a bit and so does the bottom. Washers will be used to deal with this.
5) checking fitment and trimmed the spacer to keep it from interfering with the Master Cylinder.
6) starting on the Master Cylinder Mount.
Because there was only two bolts to work with, I made it to fit on an angle.
7) this part was a slow process. I didn't want to mess this up, so I decided to do it by hand with a file. Traced the Master Cylinder flange and filed away. The goal was to be able to twist lock it, the way an oem unit would fit.
8) my buddy found me a rubber washer that he sliced in half and worked perfect to make the twist action flawless.
I used a dust boot from the transfer case shifter that I had and it was a perfect fit.
Mind you it took a while to feed/pull it through the firewall.
9) here it is all finished, mounted and solid!
10) had to replace the Slave Cylinder because I lost the rod that pushes the clutch in! Of course had to bleed the line.
The bends on the line worked out perfect!!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #99
11) here you can see the existing threads that we used to keep the Clutch Pedal Bucket nice and snug.
You can also see the dust boot.
For the Master Cylinder to fit nicely, my buddy made a spacer for the mount hole on the clutch pedal.
The harness you see there is a starter safety. Prevents me from starting the vehicle without the clutch pedal depressed.
Easy to wire: one wire will be ground and the other gets tapped into an ignition wire.
12) at the top of the Clutch Pedal Bucket there is an existing threaded hole.
Of course I used it.
13) we made the clutch pedal work without modifying or swapping the brake pedal.
All we had to do was bend the clutch medal 2" to separate it enough.
However the actual pedal was a little off!
14) I cut the pedal off.
15) my buddy welded it for me.
It's now straight and level
PS: what you see on the right is insulation broken off from the tunnel massaging I had to do to fit the tranny!
You can also see the dust boot.
For the Master Cylinder to fit nicely, my buddy made a spacer for the mount hole on the clutch pedal.
The harness you see there is a starter safety. Prevents me from starting the vehicle without the clutch pedal depressed.
Easy to wire: one wire will be ground and the other gets tapped into an ignition wire.
12) at the top of the Clutch Pedal Bucket there is an existing threaded hole.
Of course I used it.
13) we made the clutch pedal work without modifying or swapping the brake pedal.
All we had to do was bend the clutch medal 2" to separate it enough.
However the actual pedal was a little off!
14) I cut the pedal off.
15) my buddy welded it for me.
It's now straight and level
PS: what you see on the right is insulation broken off from the tunnel massaging I had to do to fit the tranny!
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
Nice job making the dodge setup work. I am going the 80 pedal assembly and master cylinder, dodge slave and likey a lone adapter to connect the 2.
Tell us more about the massaging you had to do.
Tell us more about the massaging you had to do.
