LX450 6BT/NV4500/Split Case Conversion

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Looks like you have the same hamonic balancer as I do. Have you fabbed up a bracket for the tach pickup yet? If so, lets see some pics.
 
Tach Sensor Bracket

You can see that existing bolts were used. No shimming was needed since the bolts lined up plumb.


image_6.jpg



Here's a shot of the bracket with the Crossmember

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And here is my poor attempt at drawing it

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My buddy made this for me, I threw the odd peanut gallery comment of course

1) A "T" section of 3/16" steel was used for this bracket. It was long enough to make 3 or 4.

2) The 1st attempt was to solely line up the bolts/holes, so the bracket would sit as level - to the harmonic balancer notches - as possible.

3) Second bracket made had the proper mounting location, but needed some shimming.

4) As per Dustin, we need to get close to 1/16" - 1/8" of gap between the Tach Sensor and the Harmonic Balancer Notches.
The BLUE on the sketch shows you a 1/4" piece of steel that was welded on the centre of the bracket and then a hole drilled through it.
That got us about 3/16" of a gap. A washer was used to bring us to about 1/8".
With that 3/16" gap, we can play with different washers/shims to get us the desired gap required to make the Tach Sensor get the readings.

5) The BLACK triangular sections on the drawings are about 1/4" thick and their purpose is to keep the Tach Sensor from shifting.

** Note: you can use an angle piece instead of a "T" for your bracket.
Make sure it's long enough that you can make 2 or 3 brackets. That way you have the flexibility to make some mistakes when you're drilling your holes.
Avoid honing your holes if possible to prevent the Sensor from moving on you.


Let me know if you have any questions.

@Mr. Cimarron: I will get you those measurements when I get home
 
@ mr cimarron: here is the measurent.
Let me know if you need an other angle or whatever!


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AC plumbing:
Well this one is probing to be an other challenge. Plan A, was to get a few cuts and a few compression fittings.....well, that's not happening.
So I'm moving onto Plan B.
Get a few cuts and welds.
Made some Marks, took some pictures, brought the pieces to my welder, explained everything and it's a waiting game till Tuesday when he goes back to work.
I hope he can make it work because Plan C is to bring it to a shop, whom can do the job.....BUT I'll have to drop them off my truck and they charge $100/Hour.....I would imagine they'll charge me 4 hours minimum.
Crossing fingers my welder comes through!


Got a few more things to do and I can start it up.
1) Empty the gas tank
2) Fuel pump delete
3) Hook up the Air Box
4) Install the battery (I might just do a Dual Battery while I'm at it)
5) Fill and check all the fluids
6) Double check all my connections

And I thinks that's all :-)
 
What's wrong with it you ask?
Well some idiot buried it and forgot about it until you mentioned it.
DOH!!!
 
What's wrong with it you ask?
Well some idiot buried it and forgot about it until you mentioned it.
DOH!!!
ha! So are you going to use it, or do your own custom setup.
 
I'll play with Dustins adapter and see if it won't be a hassle to use. If it's a plug and play then I'll probably just keep it, otherwise I would like to go my route with the welding......I feel it will be a cleaner install that way.
 
I used a compression fitting for the high pressure hot side feeding through the radiator support. Seems to holding just fine so far. But I just got it fully charged Friday. It's been half filled for about a year and just got around to installing an electric fan on the condencer as my intercooler and shrouding are not tight enough to pull enough air through it
 
Here is Dustins AC Pump manifold:

Top view

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Bottom view

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Can't see how this is going to work.
I might try my custom set-up instead....hopefully my welder comes through!


@cjmoon - sounds like Dustins set-up didn't work for you either or did you choose to customize it for a specific reason?


I should have a video of the engine running if all goes smooth today. I still have quite a bit of work to do tough, but I want to pressure test and make sure there aren't any issues there.
 
If I recall correctly, this A/C adapter is designed to take the top plate off the toyota compressor, and bolt it to the lower plate of the adapter, retaining the OEM A/C lines. Have you tried fitting the toyota top plate to the adapter yet?
 
What do you mean by the top plate?

I'll post details on the dual battery set-up a little later for sure.

Edit: I had to do a lot of massaging to get it in.
 
SOAB I see what you mean by the top plate.
Of course I now no longer have the engine and will have to try and source one out to make Dustins adapter work.
Buddy helped me figure out the mounting and the manifold does fit and looks like it will work pretty good!
 
You don't need a whole motor...just the compressor. Worst case you buy a new compressor and only use the top plate. I wonder if that top piece is available by itself OEM? Give Beno a call and find out.
 
I'm sure other Toyotas had the same AC. May be able to find the top plate off another model at the junk yard.
 
I didn't use his kit I baught his stand alone engine adapter plate. Not sure if he still offers it or not. He started doing cast bellhousings as part of the kit instead to utilize more of the Cummins parts. His old plate makes it very difficult to get the starter in and ou. Expecially with the 4bt. I'm not looking forward to the starter going out
 
@mryanangel - lol, I meant I will need to source out the parts I need....not the entire engine.

@cjmoon - I forgot you have the 4bt, my bad.
Fortunately for me, the starter is not that bad to get in/out.


Located a top plate for the AC.....picking it up tomorrow.
I was gonna start the engine today, just to test for any leaks and see if it holds pressure ok. But, the starter didn't want to engage.
I'll be purchasing a new starter tomorrow and hopefully it starts smooth.

I still have quite the list of things to finish.
I'm aiming to be done by the end of the month.
 
Picked up the new starter and it's a little bigger then the OEM. Had to reroute some brake lines, but not that big of a deal.
I also got the AC Pump top plate but didn't get to it today.

Run the engine for about 5 mins then I shut it off, cause I realized I didn't have the inter cooler hooked up! It run smooth, but a little high.....Tachometer read 900rpms.
I probably didn't quite set it back to where it was, when I changed the Fuel Pin & Governor Spring.

Turned it on again, to check if it would start smooth. And it was a no go. After trouble shooting for a bit, we determined that the Fuel Lifter needs to be replaced.
Also, I had a small oil leak. Looks like I need to replace the Turbo oil feed's gasket.


Hopefully I'll be posting a running video tomorrow
 

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