LX gets Onboard Air (1 Viewer)

[BigMF]

Once the mounting issues were solved, the remaining tasks were pretty straightforward since I'd done my homework and had most everything ready and a wiring diagram printed out. The only thing I'd made a mistake on was ordering the wrong "tap-a-circuit". Not sure about the rest of the 200 series trucks but my 2011 takes Low Profile Mini fuses and I'd ordered the larger size so I had to wait a couple of days for a new one to arrive since Autozone was out of stock.

1. Added a new relay box behind the fuse box. Also ran the breather here to stay dry and relatively dust free. The breather hose is not currently attached to side of the vehicle because it is very stiff and I didn't have anything on hand to fabricate a mounting solution.
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2. Here's the "tap-a-circuit"
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3. Here's the final, assembled project:
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[BigMF]

Would I do this project in this way again? Yes.

1. I could have saved myself some time by purchasing the $125 Slee compressor tray (which was not in stock) and probably mounted the compressor to it easier but then I don't think I would have been able to put the Lexus engine covers back on which I desired to do.
2. I learned
   1. More skills, such as tapping holes.
   2. About relays and solenoids, which I will almost certainly apply later on
   3. Even more about my rig
3. Even though the project took significantly longer than expected, I enjoyed the project and feel a great sense of accomplishment.
4. My test of the compressor was impressive, to me at least. I dropped the PSI on my 285/70R17 tires to 26PSI and then pumped it back up to 38 in about 1:15. I'm very happy with those results.

One question I have for you guys: I'm not a big fan of the big chunk of chrome sitting behind the grill. Would it be completely inadvisable to paint it with some high-temp black matte paint? Just a thought.

Thanks to @TeCKis300 for posting this originally and others for chiming in when questions were asked. @grinchy 's "that sux" comment was especially helpful.

 

[TeCKis300]

Nicely done. Thanks for posting your honest experience, including trials and challenges. I didn't get much opportunity to document as I was prepping for a trip. You filled in all the gaps nicely. Most importantly, you finished a mod project! Armed with some new skills.

Tapping holes - it's important to tap into the material, and then backup by half a turn-ish to eject material. Rinse and repeat until done. I broke my first tap too ages ago

My breather had a foot that was setup to self mount by pushing the foot into any hole int he sheet metal. Not sure I see one on yours but it looked like this

I see no problem with spray painting the unit.

 

[grinchy]

Looks good! did you consider mounting the switch and port through the grill so you wouldn’t have to pop the hood?

Heavy duty solution to the mounting dilemma. That’s not going anywhere.

 

[BigMF]

Thanks guys! It was a PITA but would do it again and hopefully, my experience can help someone else avoid some of the headaches.

My breather had a foot that was setup to self mount by pushing the foot into any hole int he sheet metal. Not sure I see one on yours but it looked like this

My breather came with the foot as well but the hose is so stiff and the foot relatively flimsy that it wouldn't hold it in place. If you look at the picture with the relay and breather, you can see the 1/2 hole I drilled to hold the foot but removed it because it wasn't doing anything to hold the breather. I'll go back some day and do something better but it's not critical to me.

Looks good! did you consider mounting the switch and port through the grill so you wouldn’t have to pop the hood?

Heavy duty solution to the mounting dilemma. That’s not going anywhere.

Famous last words for many men "That's not going anywhere!" I sure hope not. I put Loctite on all the threads and doubled up the nuts and tightened them up to eacher other hoping that will keep them from rattling loose. Another option woudl be a u-bolt but it might be hard to find one that size but it would cut the number of nuts that could come loose in half. Another option I considered were "anchor bolts" that look like a captial L with the bottom part cut short. You put them into wet concrete with the threads sticking up to attach a post. Might have been able to put the "leg" at the bottom of the bracket and tighten the nuts down on the top. Once again, it might have been difficult to find ones that worked perfectly so I went with the threaded rods where I knew I had infinite options for mounting plate and nut placement.

I did not consider placing it through the grill and in retrospect, I probably still wouldn't. Fabricating something to hold both in a secure enough fashion to use would have been an added challenge I didn't need. The quick-connect requires some force in order to push the hose in and release it. Also, I would worry about debris/road spray/salt blowing into the connector and switch and corroding them prematurely.

 

[JetFuel]

Thanks for posting this! I've begun the process to CTRL-C, CTRL-V this set up and just purchased a Viair 444C Stealth (black) for $158 shipped from a company selling stuff for train horns. 15% off through today. For anyone looking to do the same and can't find it, just PM me.

 

[TeCKis300]

Since I've upgraded to 35s, I'm finding air up times to be a bit more tedious. It worked great with 33s, but 35s are a different ballgame for volume. Particularly when I air down to 15 PSI and have to air up to towing pressures of 42 PSI.

When I originally spec'd the 444C (functionally ~450C), my intent was to fit an air tank. So the increased pressure headroom to 200 PSI and 100% duty cycle at those elevated pressured was preferred. With my past trip where I aired up 6 times across multiple days, I'm looking for more speed. I've been contemplating to add that high pressure tank. Really been back and forth as the air tank would also be great with a blow gun nozzle to get all the dirt off the rear hatch when arriving at camp.

The simplicity of just a pump and light weight wins out. So as it turns out, I'm going to replace my single 444C with a 400C. Trading duty cycle and pressure headroom for ~30% more CFM at typical tire pressures. At tire inflation pressures and with the pump located where there is lots of cool airflow, it'll practically be constant duty anyhow.

PSI	444C CFM	444C Amps	400 CFM	400 Amps
0	1.72	12.5	2.62	16
20	1.48	13.5	2.21	20
40	1.36	16	2.01	24
100	.95	20	1.45	27
150	.66	19	1.01	26
200	.43	16.5	-	-

 

[sdnative]

Problem with a small (1-2 gal) accumulator tank is you will run out of air in the tank then the compressor will be trying to fill the tank and the tires. A high flow compressor without a tank seems like the best solution. Save the tank for air tools.

 

[grinchy]

Problem with a small (1-2 gal) accumulator tank is you will run out of air in the tank then the compressor will be trying to fill the tank and the tires. A high flow compressor without a tank seems like the best solution. Save the tank for power tools.

I have a small tank, 2 gallon or so, I think it is sometimes useful. It holds pressure at 150psi, so I can pump up a bicycle tire or add a couple pounds to a car tire if it’s a bit low Without starting the engine and switching on the compressor. I don’t think it shortens fill time much, but there are a few seconds gained at the start of the fill, and anytime that the valve is closed to check the pressure it stores too. With the 4 tire adapter not as useful as the one tire, in that case buffered pretty good while changing to a new tire. Agree with @TeCKis300 when you get into 35s the tire volume demands more cfm, tried and true dual arb here and no complaints re: fill speed.

 

[Slow Paddler]

So as it turns out, I'm going to replace my single 444C with a 400P.

400P or 400C? The 400P is only IP54 rated, where the C is IP67. Hoping this was just a typo before you ordered. I'd checked, because I have a 450P, and was curious if it would work in this location. Nope, not for long.

 

[TeCKis300]

400P or 400C? The 400P is only IP54 rated, where the C is IP67. Hoping this was just a typo before you ordered. I'd checked, because I have a 450P, and was curious if it would work in this location. Nope, not for long.

Thanks for catching that. Definitely 400C is what you want and I made that correction.

Priced pretty reasonably on Amazon right now for $160. Just got mine in earlier this week
Amazon product ASIN B000FQ78TU

 

[js47]

@TeCKis300 How is your 400C working out? I am upgrading from my 88P and debating 400C, 420C, 425C, and 440P (any one of those four can currently be had for $190-$230).

 

[BigMF]

@TeCKis300 How is your 400C working out? I am upgrading from my 88P and debating 400C, 420C, 425C, and 440P (any one of those four can currently be had for $190-$230).

FYI, I installed a 450C ($208) last summer and have been happy with it. I don't use it very often but I never have any doubts it's going to work.

 

[TeCKis300]

@TeCKis300 How is your 400C working out? I am upgrading from my 88P and debating 400C, 420C, 425C, and 440P (any one of those four can currently be had for $190-$230).

I wound up going a different direction for 35s, keeping the 444C, and did dual pumps with its original pair as part of a twin pack I split with my brother that he never installed. If I were to do it again, the 400C or dual 400Cs would be my recommendation as they are incrementally smaller and faster at pressures necessary for a tire.

Either way, still holding up great. Just used it after running trails this past Memorial day weekend.

Write-up on new pump config here

Power Steering Relocation Bracket and Dual OBA

Having done a power steering relocation mod recently for a yet to be completed twinz project, thought this would be useful for others on how to create a simple and effective relocation bracket. I know others have needed to relocate the PS for other reasons, including fitting dual batts. Here's...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[1world1love]

@TeCKis300 How is your 400C working out? I am upgrading from my 88P and debating 400C, 420C, 425C, and 440P (any one of those four can currently be had for $190-$230).

I have had the 400c installed more or less exactly as teckis300 describes in the thread he references above. I have had it for a couple of months now and it works great. I haven’t timed it but it seems like using a Morflate, it takes about 15 minutes to get everything connected and air up from ~20psi to ~35psi. Another 5 minutes to pack everything up.

I had the 400p before and it is the same unit but portable. It was a great too, but it took me 20 minutes just to get setup to inflate with it.

 

[lx200inAR]

I installed my Viair 400c Amazon warehouse purchase this weekend. I ended up installing it on top of the aluminum bumper support as this thread describes. The 400c is IP67 rated I believe. Does anyone have concerns of water ingress through the grill causing any issues? That was really my only concern with using this area. Maybe someday I'll make the bracket to relocate things behind the passenger headlight. After reading back through this thread and the other documenting the same mod, I will need to move the filter housing to the engine bay to limit water ingress into the compressor.

I didn't really get any pictures, but my method of attachment was using 2 6" steel L brackets (probably 1/4" thick). They were very heavy duty, I could not cause any deflection even with some leverage applied. The brackets already had 3 holes per 6" side. I had to drill one new hole through the side that I attached the compressor to for each bracket. I then laid the compressor on top of the aluminum bumper with the other arms of the L bracket going down the vertical face of the back of the bumper. I tapped 3 M6x1.0 holes in the bumper using a Dewalt right angle impact drill attachment. There was not much clearance between the back of the bumper and the radiator, but enough to use the right angle adaptor and the m6 drill and tap bit. Only 3 holes because I broke the tap on the 4th hole. I decided the 3 bolts and heavy duty brackets were doing their job. The connection is very solid. I've wired up the main power and a quick bypass from ignition to the relay so that I could test turning it on. I have provisions run to use a pressure switch to control the compressor turning on and off. I just need to figure out where the quick connect and the manifold for the quick connect, pressure switch, and ideally to some day run an airline to the rear.

 

[BigMF]

I installed my Viair 400c Amazon warehouse purchase this weekend. I ended up installing it on top of the aluminum bumper support as this thread describes. The 400c is IP67 rated I believe. Does anyone have concerns of water ingress through the grill causing any issues? That was really my only concern with using this area. Maybe someday I'll make the bracket to relocate things behind the passenger headlight. After reading back through this thread and the other documenting the same mod, I will need to move the filter housing to the engine bay to limit water ingress into the compressor.

I didn't really get any pictures, but my method of attachment was using 2 6" steel L brackets (probably 1/4" thick). They were very heavy duty, I could not cause any deflection even with some leverage applied. The brackets already had 3 holes per 6" side. I had to drill one new hole through the side that I attached the compressor to for each bracket. I then laid the compressor on top of the aluminum bumper with the other arms of the L bracket going down the vertical face of the back of the bumper. I tapped 3 M6 holes in the bumper using a Dewalt right angel impact drill attachment. There was not much clearance between the back of the bumper and the radiator, but enough to use the right angle adaptor and the m6 drill and tap bit. Only 3 holes because I broke the tap on the 4th hole. I decided the 3 bolts and heavy duty brackets were doing their job. The connection is very solid. I've wired up the main power and a quick bypass from ignition to the relay so that I could test turning it on. I have provisions run to use a pressure switch to control the compressor turning on and off. I just need to figure out where the quick connect and the manifold for the quick connect, pressure switch, and ideally to some day run an airline to the rear.

I don't think you'll need to worry about water coming through the grill generally. My biggest concern was total submersion due to a water crossing or something so I routed my intake to a spot next to the brake master cylinder.

I also had issues with tapping holes and breaking the tap so use some heavy-duty straight brackets, one on top of the aluminum bumper and one below with threaded rods attaching them and pinching together to clamp it all down. Has not moved in a year and the compressor works every time.

I have that same Dewalt right angle adaptor and love it.

 

[lx200inAR]

I don't think you'll need to worry about water coming through the grill generally. My biggest concern was total submersion due to a water crossing or something so I routed my intake to a spot next to the brake master cylinder.

I also had issues with tapping holes and breaking the tap so use some heavy-duty straight brackets, one on top of the aluminum bumper and one below with threaded rods attaching them and pinching together to clamp it all down. Has not moved in a year and the compressor works every time.

I have that same Dewalt right angle adaptor and love it.

Awesome, Thanks for the response. Following along your install is what got me motivated, then finding the 400c on a warehouse deal for half price really moved it along. And yes, I was amazed how well the DeWalt adapter worked. I really was only giving it about a 25% chance after I bought it of getting the job done.

 

[1world1love]

You’ll be fine as long as you keep your intake filter mounted in the engine bay where it won’t be submerged. A splash of water is not going to hurt anything and presumably you won’t be running it while doing any water crossings

 

[BigMF]

You’ll be fine as long as you keep your intake filter mounted in the engine bay where it won’t be submerged. A splash of water is not going to hurt anything and presumably you won’t be running it while doing any water crossings

I only plan to use it to pump enough air into the truck to keep it afloat during deep crossings.