Lubrication/grease points (1 Viewer)

aaronrules

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I'm pretty sure it's just the 6 spots total between both drive lines. The spider joints and the splines. If you use the zerk for the splines, I wouldn't count on the grease making it to the splines. If you have the extra 45 minutes or hour or so, remove the drivelines and separate the shafts and grease the splines directly, when you pull the shaft apart you'll see why you needed to grease the spines this way. Make sure you put shafts back together the exact same way they were seperated, meaning that you don't accidentally rotate either end one way or the other.
 

jemsec

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I'll follow your advice regarding splines. Good point made.

Wonder what the "coolest person you know" will do?

Have put grease into ball joints by pulling back the rubber and using a needle type end.
Grease door, hood and rear hatch hinges and latches with needle end. Anything that moves needs grease.
 

aaronrules

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I'm a little scared to be pulling drivetrain components. I am pretty amateur with automobile mechanics. Been working on airplanes for over 14 years, but not a lot in common.
 
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I'm a little scared to be pulling drivetrain components. I am pretty amateur with automobile mechanics. Been working on airplanes for over 14 years, but not a lot in common.
Nothing wrong with giving each slip joint 4 or 5 pumps every other day or so until you get grease working its way out past the seals if you aren't enthusiastic about initially pulling the shafts. IMO that's a better approach than either not greasing at all, or pumping in 20 or 30 strokes and consequently putting huge stresses on the drive train if the grease can't escape to relieve pressure. A couple of pumps on each uni just so you see fresh grease extruding is enough.

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aaronrules

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So I go to grease what I guess are the steering knuckles. The zerk fittings inside the front wheels. And I can barely squeeze the gun to get any grease to go in! And I am not seeing any grease come out anywhere either. Are these supposed to be hard to get grease to go into? The gun is working fine as I got plenty of grease to go into the other lube point on the truck. Brand new gun and grease too! I am not too sure what is going on, or what I should do.
 

aaronrules

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It's a zirc fitting with a dust cap over the top of it. Looking at the fitting, it just might be the brake bleed port. And yes I might be the dumbest person in the world!
 
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aaronrules

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Probably a good thing I couldn't get any pumps on the gun! I swear that diagram shows that is a lube fitting...I was hoping that would eliminate the popping sound coming from my driver front end, not mention the squeaking that has been going on since Colorado!
 

paflytyer

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Nothing with a zerk fitting in there Aaron. If you're getting a sound from something up front, try to recreate it by rocking your truck up/down or side to side and see what's squeaking. Could be a bunch of different things. You'll likely get 100 responses on here about what it is, but until you know where it's coming from you'll just be chasing things down. If you isolate the squeak but don't know what you're looking at, just post a picture of it. There's a fix for it for sure.
 

aaronrules

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I've been trying to find the "clunking" sound for a while. It is the front drivers side making the noise, I will try to rock it tomorrow...jump and down shake the piss out of it and see if it will make the clunk. The squeaking, I'm 90% sure it is the brakes, as it goes away while applying the brakes and is louder immediately after letting off. Being as the Seahawks won't start whoopin on the Forty Whiners until 5:30 local time, I should have time to check it out.

Just a little nervous that these sounds can open a can of worms I may not be able to muttle my way through. I wish I could have got my wife talked into moving to Colorado! I would have plenty of guys I could bug to help me!
 
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I had a clunk. It was the brake pads shifting in the calipers because they're non Toyota, Car Quest I think, from the previous owner. The Toyota ones are just a hair larger and so don't shift around. Anyway I took it to Toyota and the tech identified it pretty quick and also said not to worry about it. Pads still had plenty left and I could switch back to real Toyota ones when they were worn a little more.

The clunk or click would sync with wheel rotation but I didn't hear it when breaks were applied. Also only did it when turning in one direction or going straight.
 

aaronrules

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I had a clunk. It was the brake pads shifting in the calipers because they're non Toyota, Car Quest I think, from the previous owner. The Toyota ones are just a hair larger and so don't shift around. Anyway I took it to Toyota and the tech identified it pretty quick and also said not to worry about it. Pads still had plenty left and I could switch back to real Toyota ones when they were worn a little more. The clunk or click would sync with wheel rotation but I didn't hear it when breaks were applied. Also only did it when turning in one direction or going straight.

That sounds a lot like what I have going on. Did yours squeak/squeal at all?
 
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No squeak or squeal on mine but I think it's quite possible to create those kinds of noises with the pads and calipers. I think a lot if it has to do with the shims used between the pads and the caliper pistons. Apparently the LC uses a two part shim which is very good and doesn't need to always be replaced. Depending on what after market parts are used there could be any kind of shim used - or not.
 

aaronrules

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No squeak or squeal on mine but I think it's quite possible to create those kinds of noises with the pads and calipers. I think a lot if it has to do with the shims used between the pads and the caliper pistons. Apparently the LC uses a two part shim which is very good and doesn't need to always be replaced. Depending on what after market parts are used there could be any kind of shim used - or not.

The guy who sold me the truck said he had the brakes replaced right before he shipped it to me. Like the idiot I am, I never checked them out. Was yours making noise right away, or did it take a while?
 
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Nothing wrong with giving each slip joint 4 or 5 pumps every other day or so until you get grease working its way out past the seals if you aren't enthusiastic about initially pulling the shafts. IMO that's a better approach than either not greasing at all, or pumping in 20 or 30 strokes and consequently putting huge stresses on the drive train if the grease can't escape to relieve pressure. A couple of pumps on each uni just so you see fresh grease extruding is enough.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

I just pumped about 30 into the 2 slip joints and nothing extruded or moved. What should be the next step?
 

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