Good afternoon everyone! I need your help. I just got my Land Cruiser back for almost a year and no expert on much. I was trying to bleed my brakes earlier and the rear brakes weren’t bleeding. I did some research and found out that the LSVP can clog it up or something. I don’t know much of it so I need some of your knowledge. My brakes are super spongy literally hitting the floor so I need to fix it asap. Thank you everyone! I have a 1991 Toyota Land Cruiser fj80
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I don’t see the LSPV clogging it up. But if a lift is installed the LSPV can greatly inhibit braking and pedal feel if not addressed
I have every reason that I bled mine for the first time since the production line. Fluid was black, no trace of any wetness under the rubber boot. Seems to me to be fairly trouble free device unless the actuating rod is moved or lift altered.
It sounds like you’re saying this is a new problem after the car has been siting for a while. More than likely you have a brake master cylinder that is leaking internally. You should replace it.
If the brake fluid is not coming out of the bleeders at the caliper, close the bleeders back up and try pressing the brake pedal several times to see if that helps. Then open it back up to see if it flows out.. if that doesn’t work try pressing the brake pedal with the bleeders open. You could have debris clogging up the brake bleeders. You could also remove the brake bleeder.
Lastly , if you don’t have one yet, spend the $100-$200 to get a motive power brake bleeder tool as well as power probe adaptor. With these, you can keep a constant 15psi through your brake system while you bleed the lines.
If the brake fluid is not coming out of the bleeders at the caliper, close the bleeders back up and try pressing the brake pedal several times to see if that helps. Then open it back up to see if it flows out.. if that doesn’t work try pressing the brake pedal with the bleeders open. You could have debris clogging up the brake bleeders. You could also remove the brake bleeder.
Lastly , if you don’t have one yet, spend the $100-$200 to get a motive power brake bleeder tool as well as power probe adaptor. With these, you can keep a constant 15psi through your brake system while you bleed the lines.
LSPV will need to be replaced if its original. Its pretty much impossible its working properly for how old it is.
@JimmyA23 When you say you can't bleed the rear, what exactly are you doing when trying to bleed the brakes. There are lots of threads here and most end with using a pressure bleeder. Ask me how I know 
. Before replacing any parts you might want to invest in one. The reason I say this is, you'll probably end up buying one IF you replace parts. Some of these trucks are a down right pain in the 
to bleed. So, if you have to open everything up, a pressure bleeder will be your friend. Best of luck!
. Before replacing any parts you might want to invest in one. The reason I say this is, you'll probably end up buying one IF you replace parts. Some of these trucks are a down right pain in the to bleed. So, if you have to open everything up, a pressure bleeder will be your friend. Best of luck!- Thread starter
- #7
Thanks ill look into it!@JimmyA23 When you say you can't bleed the rear, what exactly are you doing when trying to bleed the brakes. There are lots of threads here and most end with using a pressure bleeder. Ask me how I know
This is what I used. It worked well. There are others too.
I couldn’t bleed my rear calipers once. It turned out that the passageway in the bleeder was rusted closed. I removed the bleeder, used a wire to clean it out, re installed the bleeder and then was able to bleed the calipers.
Gravity bleed the rears with the vehicle sitting on the ground see if that helps…. If not, time to dig deeper. Gravity bleeding is about the only way to get a tits pedal out of a singular point brake soft line that T’s into two hard lines t’words each caliper.
ethanbradleysha
SILVER Star
I have been have been having a similar problem with my brakes. I drive an HZJ77 but I am assuming the set up is very similar. I loosened the bleeder valve on the rear caliper with someone holding the brakes. I also removed it entirely without any flow. I followed the lines back and I am getting brake fluid coming out of the incoming line to the LSVP but the brake line leaving the LSVP is completely dry. recently I installed a 2”suspension lift and am wondering if this could be causing it to get no fluid to the rear brakes (although it worked fine for a couple of months) or if there is a blockage or something wrong with the LSVP.
One or both rear calipers? The line could be clogged up with corrosion if the fluid wasn't replaced often. I would keep bleeding the system if it wasn’t
ethanbradleysha
SILVER Star
They are both dry. Also checked it right when it comes out of the LSVP and that’s dry also
ethanbradleysha
SILVER Star
This is great, thank you both! I’ll try this out and let you know how it goes.
You might try this
LSPV drop bracket kit
This kit allows you to setup the LSPV back to stock after lifting the vehicle. The kit comes with a drop bracket for the LSPV itself as well and a lift plate for the axle end and two pieced of thick wall heat shrink to stiffen the sensing spring to take advantage of running bigger tires and...
landtankproducts.com
ethanbradleysha
SILVER Star
I ended out getting a new aftermarket LSVP so hoping this will work! I’ll try the drop bracket on the new valve if it fits!
ethanbradleysha
SILVER Star
I’ll give an update on the brakes in case anyone has a similar problem. I called around and was having difficulty finding a new LSVP for my HZJ77. I had figured out that the internal components were no longer working on the original one. I ended out buying this LSVP off of amazon: Amazon.com: EPSIRMP 47910-60090 Brake Load Sensing Proportioning Valve Compatible with 1993-1997 Toyota Land Cruiser, 1996-1997 Lexus LX450 : Automotive - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D224HVJT?ref=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_FQM3E652MH622GTW2F48&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_FQM3E652MH622GTW2F48&social_share=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_FQM3E652MH622GTW2F48
The part number was the same as the 70 series even though this shows it is for an LX450 (80 series). It was only $35.
I installed it yesterday. Some pointers on the install. Make sure you have good plugs for the brake lines, mine were not good and it was leaking the entire time I was replacing it. The LSVP came off pretty easily for me. It was just 2 12mm nuts in the center and the rod had a 12mm bolt holding it to the bracket. Once everything is disconnected the rod is held onto the LSVP by a little rubber boot with a C clamp. The new one fit almost perfectly except I had to enlarge the mounting hole slightly. I used a step bit and maybe drilled out 1/8” which only took a moment. I attached some photos to show this and marked a red arrow where I drilled the bracket out slightly. Once I put the lines back I bleeder the rear brakes and everything works!
47910-60090 Brake Load Sensing Proportioning Valve
The part number was the same as the 70 series even though this shows it is for an LX450 (80 series). It was only $35.
I installed it yesterday. Some pointers on the install. Make sure you have good plugs for the brake lines, mine were not good and it was leaking the entire time I was replacing it. The LSVP came off pretty easily for me. It was just 2 12mm nuts in the center and the rod had a 12mm bolt holding it to the bracket. Once everything is disconnected the rod is held onto the LSVP by a little rubber boot with a C clamp. The new one fit almost perfectly except I had to enlarge the mounting hole slightly. I used a step bit and maybe drilled out 1/8” which only took a moment. I attached some photos to show this and marked a red arrow where I drilled the bracket out slightly. Once I put the lines back I bleeder the rear brakes and everything works!
In the case of trucks with 3-4in lift and 35in tires wouldn't deleting the valve be better? Aren't these trucks to big anyway to spin 180 degrees instantly in case of hard braking?