Now seems like as good a time as any for the first post. I have been lurking here as I am thinking of purchasing an 80. I currently drive an 09 Tahoe that has a 6l80e trans and it is mated to a 5.3l engine. So it is not necessary to have an LS2 or LS3 if you want the 6spd trans. As stated above the 6spd is more high tech and is controlled by a TCM chip that is embedded in the trans. So the ECM and TCM for my model are separate where as I think older models with the 4spd were both controlled by a single removable PCM chip. Tunes are flashed to both the ECM and TCM separately with a hand held device. That is my experience and understanding of the 5.3l and 6l80e. Some others might have more insight than I though.
Builds LS2 L76 V8 and 6L80E Swap in 1997 40th FJ80 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jwdodd1
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- Thread starter
- #62
western flyer said:
The LS2/LS3 option is sexy indeed. By upgrading my cam shaft, i should be pushing 450!hpr. If you can stomach the cost, you will love the truck. Unfortunately, I doubtful my cruiser control will return, will remain hopeful,
krom said:
I re-read the question and realized that my engine is a gen IV LMG so you may in fact be correct that you need a gen IV to run he 6l80e. The L92 is a gen IV 6.0l.
Thanks Krom. If I understand it right, the 5.3 is an iron block; I am being extra picky and want the alum block (light weight farkle) and 6 speed (6L80e), which I think kicks me to the LS2/LS3 and its close derivatives/relatives. Nevertheless, what do you think of the 6L80e? Thanks for posting and welcome!
Thanks Jwdodd1. That much torque and hp would probably move my trailer through the Rockies relatively well. I would not want to give up cruiser control: my rt. knee (abused) disliked long road trips in my fj-60 without cruiser control. I am excited for you to get it rolling. Does the cam you installed supposedly function well at low rpms?
Does anybody know/remember if Slee got cruise control working in his v-8 80 swap?
Cheers, Jon
Thanks Jwdodd1. That much torque and hp would probably move my trailer through the Rockies relatively well. I would not want to give up cruiser control: my rt. knee (abused) disliked long road trips in my fj-60 without cruiser control. I am excited for you to get it rolling. Does the cam you installed supposedly function well at low rpms?
Does anybody know/remember if Slee got cruise control working in his v-8 80 swap?
Cheers, Jon
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The only complaint with the 6l80e I have is that it never seems to know what gear it wants to be in around town. On the highway it is great but around town it is constantly hunting. Even with the custom tune. I end up driving around town with the manual select at 3rd or 4th.
Hey Krom: I have read the same thing about the trans hunting elsewhere as well. Thanks.
This is interesting: TBMSport Trailblazer SS 6L80E Swap Note they got cruise control working in a swap, though in a gm rig.
This is interesting: TBMSport Trailblazer SS 6L80E Swap Note they got cruise control working in a swap, though in a gm rig.
- Thread starter
- #67
krom said:
One thing my mechanic mentioned to me was to have my transmission reflashed to the corvette shift pattern. He acted like this would help with the searching issue
- Thread starter
- #68
western flyer said:
The guys over at street performance have had some luck getting the cruise control working when using the Trailblazer SS dropout package. I, however don't expect to see mine working again. Wish that could be fixed!!
- Thread starter
- #69
western flyer said:
The folks over at Street Performance made some adjustments and upped my idle to around 1000 and it is running nice. I will report back on the performance issues as I drive it. Hopefully we can get the cruise control figured out sometime soon. I will miss it!
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Yes, it does work.
The cruise can be made to work with the GM engine, but it depends on whether it's a drive by wire or drive by cable motor.
For a drive by cable set-up, one could retain the toyota cruise module on the fender and run the actuator cable right to the throttle body. It should work as normal since it's independent of the toyota ecm.
For a drive by wire set-up, GM designed the system to work from 12v inputs from the gm cruise control stalk. Since the toyota cruise stalk does not send out straight 12v signals for it's commands, it either has to be modified in some way, or just build a simple box with 4 buttons that mimic the GM stalk. LT1swap.com talks about what wires to use and the signals they need to trigger the functions. I plan on doing this with mine at some point, I just haven't found any spare time to do so
from this site:
Cruise Set/Coast Signal - This is a momentary switch signal which sends 12v+ down this wire. Momentary meaning, it only sends 12v+ when the switch is pressed, when you release the switch, it should turn off. Pressing this switch quickly will set the current speed and it will be maintained. Holding it on will let vehicle coast, when you release, that will be the new set speed to be maintained. After set, each quick press of the switch will lower set speed 1 mph.
Cruise On Signal - This is simply an on / off switch that enables or disables the cruise function. This needs to be switched 12v+ to this wire.
Cruise Resume/Accel Signal - This is a momentary switch signal which sends 12v+ down this wire. Momentary meaning, it only sends 12v+ when the switch is pressed, when you release the switch, it should turn off. This switch ONLY functions after you have previously pressed the SET/COAST switch. Resume will resume vehicle speed after hitting the brakes. Holding this switch will make vehicle accelerate until you release it. Each quick press of the switch will increase set speed 1 mph.
Stop Lamp Supply Voltage - This wire should be hooked to the same wire that feeds you're brake lights 12v+ when you press on the brake pedal. THIS IS NOT THE SAME WIRE AS TCC BRAKE SWITCH THAT THE PCM USES TO UNLOCK TORQUE CONVERTER.
After those are wired, you also MUST have the TCC brake switch signal to the PCM. If this signal is not received by the PCM, cruise will not function. TCC Brake Switch Signal is 12v+ when brakes are NOT pressed, and the switch OPENS when you hit the brakes. This signal wire is at PCM connector C1-Blue: Pin #33; Purple wire.
For a drive by cable set-up, one could retain the toyota cruise module on the fender and run the actuator cable right to the throttle body. It should work as normal since it's independent of the toyota ecm.
For a drive by wire set-up, GM designed the system to work from 12v inputs from the gm cruise control stalk. Since the toyota cruise stalk does not send out straight 12v signals for it's commands, it either has to be modified in some way, or just build a simple box with 4 buttons that mimic the GM stalk. LT1swap.com talks about what wires to use and the signals they need to trigger the functions. I plan on doing this with mine at some point, I just haven't found any spare time to do so
from this site:
Cruise Set/Coast Signal - This is a momentary switch signal which sends 12v+ down this wire. Momentary meaning, it only sends 12v+ when the switch is pressed, when you release the switch, it should turn off. Pressing this switch quickly will set the current speed and it will be maintained. Holding it on will let vehicle coast, when you release, that will be the new set speed to be maintained. After set, each quick press of the switch will lower set speed 1 mph.
Cruise On Signal - This is simply an on / off switch that enables or disables the cruise function. This needs to be switched 12v+ to this wire.
Cruise Resume/Accel Signal - This is a momentary switch signal which sends 12v+ down this wire. Momentary meaning, it only sends 12v+ when the switch is pressed, when you release the switch, it should turn off. This switch ONLY functions after you have previously pressed the SET/COAST switch. Resume will resume vehicle speed after hitting the brakes. Holding this switch will make vehicle accelerate until you release it. Each quick press of the switch will increase set speed 1 mph.
Stop Lamp Supply Voltage - This wire should be hooked to the same wire that feeds you're brake lights 12v+ when you press on the brake pedal. THIS IS NOT THE SAME WIRE AS TCC BRAKE SWITCH THAT THE PCM USES TO UNLOCK TORQUE CONVERTER.
After those are wired, you also MUST have the TCC brake switch signal to the PCM. If this signal is not received by the PCM, cruise will not function. TCC Brake Switch Signal is 12v+ when brakes are NOT pressed, and the switch OPENS when you hit the brakes. This signal wire is at PCM connector C1-Blue: Pin #33; Purple wire.
Some good info here: Drive by wire
- Thread starter
- #73
jwdodd1 said:
Took delivery of her today, then sent her back due to idle issues and check engine light. Hopefully this will get sorted out quickly. I uploaded some more pics. Let me know what you think.
- Thread starter
- #74
I decided to bite the bullet and order my 2.5 OME lift. I have got to stop... This thing is easy to throw money at and I am officially out! Love it though!!!
- Thread starter
- #75
rockrod said:The cruise can be made to work with the GM engine, but it depends on whether it's a drive by wire or drive by cable motor.
For a drive by cable set-up, one could retain the toyota cruise module on the fender and run the actuator cable right to the throttle body. It should work as normal since it's independent of the toyota ecm.
For a drive by wire set-up, GM designed the system to work from 12v inputs from the gm cruise control stalk. Since the toyota cruise stalk does not send out straight 12v signals for it's commands, it either has to be modified in some way, or just build a simple box with 4 buttons that mimic the GM stalk. LT1swap.com talks about what wires to use and the signals they need to trigger the functions. I plan on doing this with mine at some point, I just haven't found any spare time to do so
from this site:
Cruise Set/Coast Signal - This is a momentary switch signal which sends 12v+ down this wire. Momentary meaning, it only sends 12v+ when the switch is pressed, when you release the switch, it should turn off. Pressing this switch quickly will set the current speed and it will be maintained. Holding it on will let vehicle coast, when you release, that will be the new set speed to be maintained. After set, each quick press of the switch will lower set speed 1 mph.
Cruise On Signal - This is simply an on / off switch that enables or disables the cruise function. This needs to be switched 12v+ to this wire.
Cruise Resume/Accel Signal - This is a momentary switch signal which sends 12v+ down this wire. Momentary meaning, it only sends 12v+ when the switch is pressed, when you release the switch, it should turn off. This switch ONLY functions after you have previously pressed the SET/COAST switch. Resume will resume vehicle speed after hitting the brakes. Holding this switch will make vehicle accelerate until you release it. Each quick press of the switch will increase set speed 1 mph.
Stop Lamp Supply Voltage - This wire should be hooked to the same wire that feeds you're brake lights 12v+ when you press on the brake pedal. THIS IS NOT THE SAME WIRE AS TCC BRAKE SWITCH THAT THE PCM USES TO UNLOCK TORQUE CONVERTER.
After those are wired, you also MUST have the TCC brake switch signal to the PCM. If this signal is not received by the PCM, cruise will not function. TCC Brake Switch Signal is 12v+ when brakes are NOT pressed, and the switch OPENS when you hit the brakes. This signal wire is at PCM connector C1-Blue: Pin #33; Purple wire.
Awesome info!!! Thanks for the help!!!
- Thread starter
- #76
Almost home...
Thanks Christo.
The cruise can be made to work with the GM engine, but it depends on whether it's a drive by wire or drive by cable motor.
For a drive by cable set-up, one could retain the toyota cruise module on the fender and run the actuator cable right to the throttle body. It should work as normal since it's independent of the toyota ecm.
For a drive by wire set-up, GM designed the system to work from 12v inputs from the gm cruise control stalk. Since the toyota cruise stalk does not send out straight 12v signals for it's commands, it either has to be modified in some way, or just build a simple box with 4 buttons that mimic the GM stalk. LT1swap.com talks about what wires to use and the signals they need to trigger the functions. I plan on doing this with mine at some point, I just haven't found any spare time to do so
from this site:
Cruise Set/Coast Signal - This is a momentary switch signal which sends 12v+ down this wire. Momentary meaning, it only sends 12v+ when the switch is pressed, when you release the switch, it should turn off. Pressing this switch quickly will set the current speed and it will be maintained. Holding it on will let vehicle coast, when you release, that will be the new set speed to be maintained. After set, each quick press of the switch will lower set speed 1 mph.
Cruise On Signal - This is simply an on / off switch that enables or disables the cruise function. This needs to be switched 12v+ to this wire.
Cruise Resume/Accel Signal - This is a momentary switch signal which sends 12v+ down this wire. Momentary meaning, it only sends 12v+ when the switch is pressed, when you release the switch, it should turn off. This switch ONLY functions after you have previously pressed the SET/COAST switch. Resume will resume vehicle speed after hitting the brakes. Holding this switch will make vehicle accelerate until you release it. Each quick press of the switch will increase set speed 1 mph.
Stop Lamp Supply Voltage - This wire should be hooked to the same wire that feeds you're brake lights 12v+ when you press on the brake pedal. THIS IS NOT THE SAME WIRE AS TCC BRAKE SWITCH THAT THE PCM USES TO UNLOCK TORQUE CONVERTER.
After those are wired, you also MUST have the TCC brake switch signal to the PCM. If this signal is not received by the PCM, cruise will not function. TCC Brake Switch Signal is 12v+ when brakes are NOT pressed, and the switch OPENS when you hit the brakes. This signal wire is at PCM connector C1-Blue: Pin #33; Purple wire.
As noted, that is great info. Thanks for that.
It will likely sit more level (than mine) with the OME 2.5 and that light weight alum. motor. I have the stink bug. Ah, but then I see in the pic you have the heavy front bumper (and I think you still have the stock set up in rear). Looks good...
- Thread starter
- #80
western flyer said:
I am definitely looking forward to it. I went Heavy duty up front and medium in the back. She felt top heavy when steering. Hoping this will help.
