You are really front loaded with opinionated statements, I didn’t ask for a lecture.
Yes it’s an Erod so stay with what you know.
Offer feedback is great but don’t get off in the weeds with arrogant comments that you don’t know about
You are really front loaded with opinionated statements, I didn’t ask for a lecture.
Yes it’s an Erod so stay with what you know.
Offer feedback is great but don’t get off in the weeds with arrogant comments that you don’t know about
What I am saying is an "E-Rod" engine is a complete package from GM Performance that specifically includes catalytic converters and a complete emissions system. You only buy an E-Rod because you want the emissions stuff. Buying an E-Rod then tearing all the emissions stuff off would be like ordering a purposely ordering a pepperoni pizza and then individually removing every single pepperoni by hand. However, after more closely reading, you do not have an "E-Rod" engine like your first post claims. An E-Rod is a 6.2 LS or LT engine from GM Performance. You just have a random 5.3 truck motor yanked from a Silverado - and it DOES make a difference in terms of diagnostics and approach.
You should not hear/feel any pressure or gurgling from the tank if the evap & venting is functional. You likely have a plugged vent line going to or coming from the vapor separator.
FJ62 with 5.3 2011 Erod gremlin. I’ve only been in situation at high elevation 2 times when hot. Both times fuel pressure loss. Here’s what’s been done to take some guess work out. These were all legitimate issues eliminated:
Rewire harness, bad grounds and power
New intake tubing and tuned/dyno
Fuel evap system removed
Cats removed open tuned to MAF
New MAF wires checked good
New MAP wasn’t functioning
New fuel cap
New fuel regulator and filter
New fuel pump 18 months ago
New Oxygen sensors NGK
New throttle sensor ACD
Throttle removed and cleaned
Vacuum leak smoke checked - good
Fuel rail bleed down hold 50+
In tank pump
Regulator and filter same mount on frame, no return check (that I know of other than disconnected evap)
Ok so leave sea level and get to 4000ft warm outside and like clock work starts leaning out, maxed out stumbles and dies, cool off runs 10 minutes and does it again until I get to lower altitude.
Stopped at auto parts and put a gauge on rails, read 60 psi drive again to duplicate and after heat soaked pressure dumps rapid, Fuel pump in tank pegs out at 60 and dumps again. Over and over. All that said I’m thinking 3 things: injectors won’t bleed like that, seems like vapor lock but FI, pump runs strong and less than 2 years old. WTH!?
Ok I’m done
Quick history to clarify. PO bought from Icon then had the swap in 2013. I bought a year ago and drove it home after a pre-purchase. The shop that maintained it did a poor job of maintaining it. I dug into the records after the fact and chased down the shop that did the swap (not shop PO had work done for 8 years) the swap shop lead tech said oh yeah I recall that. Then said the owners shop called me 5-10 times after the swap asking questions that made it apparent they had no business maintaining it. In conclusion they butchered the hell out of it. Problems that came up they did repairs that patch or masked the problems. One example is the ECU was replaced 3 times in 5 years, instead of fixing the issue they kept replacing the fried ECU. All the rewiring is because they rigged wires not knowing what they were doing, hooked power feeds to wrong post on fuse block, added a switch to bypass or cut power signal to downstream 02 sensors some how to drive better between annual smog and added lines caused resistance and became corroded and system failures, they actually removed the ground system to the engine and the entire frame/battery/ECU was shorted in OL. They fried everything in time and just kept throwing parts at it. I spent the last year gutting it, rewiring it to fix it all. They forged documents to cover their mistakes and I’ve uncovered the issues. But I’ve filed suit and opened investigation with California air board. It’s a s*** show.
I had many moving parts and they’ve been fixed. Im sure you know you can have an issue and it will only reveal itself in certain conditions. From OP I’d mentioned this problem only happened on 2 trips and this is second one. High and hot, I live at sea level and after spending thousands of $$$ having various shop tear it apart they never could recreate the issue at sea level so im stuck in NM in a hotel with trip canceled waiting on $500 a day mechanic to arrive to troubleshoot while im at the scene, I can recreate the issue while im here today.
-The evap line was removed at the fire wall and filter installed on the 1/4 metal line at firewall. The manifold was capped and vacuum test done to determine it was sealed at manifold. The breather on the line vents ok because I can smell fumes. After reading this as a solution on Mud.
-the tank has only made a gurgle noise when I change altitude. The minute I broke down yesterday I ran back and popped the cap and it vented but not a huge amount just a woosh and after that it was adjusted to altitude. During several hours of scan tool I made it continue to fail to watch for clues on scan, every time it failed I’d check tank for pressure and there wasn’t any. I even left cap off on one run with rag stuffed in it to see if that would relieve build up but with or without the cap it did identical failure, ran great in between, heat soaked then failed.
-Stopped at auto parts store and bought gauge and duct taped to windshield, drive until I saw trims start leaning out then watched fluctuation in trims. The trims would oscillate at beginning and I’d hear tank pump cycle to prime line then turn off, I could see trims go to zero, within 5 second pressure would bleed off and trims would max lean, over and over max trim to zero, quickly over and over.
I’ve got video of the wild fluctuation in rail pressure but can’t post video so here’s screen shots that shows the pressures within a 10 second interval.
I hope this helps clear up anything that wasn’t represented in OP. Initial post I wasn’t going to write a book and knew I’d have to elaborate so here we are. And thank you for apology, accepted.
I’m not an ASE mechanic so much to learn but I’ve got thousands of hours in restoration, give or take $15-20k in parts and shop bills. PO literally destroyed the LC from the inside out.
