Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Thanks for posting this, I’ve been meaning to add it to the manuals I keep on my phone.Look here for clues! Seems like you are in test mode. I think you are getting too much resistance on sender line 1.
Look here for clues! Seems like you are in test mode. I think you are getting too much resistance on sender line 1.
I think this is a great idea. Please post if you figure out a wayThanks !!
Looks like I have a bad ground on the black wire and it went into the test mode like you said. I'll check it on the weekend.
I do want to hook the white/black to the Main Fuel sender which should be one of the wires going into the consol.
Does anyone know which plug and pin number on the console is the fuel sender?
It would be nice to have it run automatically.
Looks like it needs 1 to 2 volts to turn on and 3 to 4 volts to turn off.
I sort of do the same. I don’t want to get too low and since I tow my mileage could be drastically off depending on the situation. I try to not let it get below half a tank on the main if I’ve exhausted the LRA.Depending on how the light falls, mine can/does look more full than it is at times. I use mileage exclusively for fuel; don't trust gauges on either tank. Just me?
The OEM gauge cluster expects a signal in ohm. It’s near zero ohm for one state and a high number (220? Ohm, have to look in the aux tank thread for the exact value) <edit 15 ohm full and 410 ohm empty> for the other state. The Toyota ohm range is not standard with a lot of aftermarket gauges / senders set up for 0 to 90 ohm.@grinchy , When you installed the factory sub tank, did you encounter the variable voltage "signal" wire for the factory tank? I thought you might know which one it is and where it connects near the gauge cluster...
I have done one extra pump but not anymore than that. We can’t hear it unless I’m stopped and 99% of the time we’re on the go so listening out for it is something I will also try. What does a empty pumping pump sound like?My issue was a bad ground, so that is fixed.
For not getting the 39.7 gallons out:
When the red light turns on then after a set period of time the pump turns off.
After it turns red you can hit the button again and it will again pump for that set period of time and turn off.
On mine I can hit the button 3 times after it initially turns red to get the last few gallons out of it.
Mine I can hear the pump running and it makes a different sound if it is not pumping fuel.
So you may want to try that to get the reserve out of the aux tank?
Thanks for the insights. I guess (at a minimum), I would need to try to integrate a device like this if I want automatic filling from the Aux to the main tank using the PG210: https://shop.classicinstruments.com/sn34 . Generics can be ordered for ~$35USD...not sure how well they might work. The juice might not be worth the squeeze.The OEM gauge cluster expects a signal in ohm. It’s near zero ohm for one state and a high number (220? Ohm, have to look in the aux tank thread for the exact value) for the other state. The Toyota ohm range is not standard with a lot of aftermarket gauges / senders set up for 0 to 90 ohm.
It is possible to tap the gauge cluster wires and feed them the ohm value from the aux tank. I have mine on a switch, so I can read either one. For the OEM aux tank, it’s not super useful as the aux tank empties first due to the Venturi feed, which is automatic and not defeatable, so the fuel level of the aux tank is either being used or empty, during which time the main fuel tank garage reads full. When the main gauge is not on full, the aux tank is empty. I never have trouble with tracking about how much is my the aux tank because of this.
Another minor issue is that the fuel gauge doesn’t sample very often, so it could be a while from reading one tank value to the other after switching.
And finally, the gauge cluster inputs to the TLC and LX differ, so the wiring pins are different. Definitely follow the pin out / color codes for your year and model.
The stock gauge is 15 ohm full and 410 ohm empty. I couldn’t find anything aftermarket that accommodated this range, but I also didn’t look exhaustively. A raspberry pi type solution or even simpler on one of those mini IC type things could easily do this, but I didn’t go down that path.Thanks for the insights. I guess (at a minimum), I would need to try to integrate a device like this if I want automatic filling from the Aux to the main tank using the PG210: https://shop.classicinstruments.com/sn34 . Generics can be ordered for ~$35USD...not sure how well they might work. The juice might not be worth the squeeze.