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Lower Ball Joint really screwing with me (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter lesgarten
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
Definitely an improvement. Is there any way to filter by Series?
It was posted in a link above, but I think the gold standard for separating the lower ball joints is the OEMTOOL 27170. Right now I am looking at it with much affection!
Pushes straight which is key. Has strap bolts that keep it from flying off and also centers it. You have to remove the disc and dust shield to get it on though.
The screw feels like it is made out of good stuff. Impact banged it and it was off.
The thing that amazed me was my ball joints were just married up to the knuckle and had less than 10 miles on them and were this hard to get BACK off.
This is a Free rental from Autozone or $69 on Amazon
I tried that one and didn't work for me. What finally got it out (after 2 days on jackstands) was the harbor freight little tool (you need to find the right position and angle for it to bite) and some massaging with a 8lb mallet.
Very soon. We have a ton more product to add and sort by model/Series will follow.
- Thread starter
- #65
So this LBJ is not quite done screwing with me it seems!
The ineffective tools I used damaged some of the threads on the end of the Ball Joint stud. Tried to clean the up today with a needle file but that hardly ever works well for me.
Anybody have any suggestions about how to clean up the threads?
Here's some of the issues:
1) I don't have a thread die that big and I don't know the size. Seems like it may be 18mm
2) The stud rotates, so it is hard to tell how close I am because you can't put any real torque on it to thread the nut on. Which would cause me some issues with a die as well. There is the cotter pin hole I can put a screw driver through.
If anyone knows any thread restoration tricks that might work, I'd Love to hear them.
The ineffective tools I used damaged some of the threads on the end of the Ball Joint stud. Tried to clean the up today with a needle file but that hardly ever works well for me.
Anybody have any suggestions about how to clean up the threads?
Here's some of the issues:
1) I don't have a thread die that big and I don't know the size. Seems like it may be 18mm
2) The stud rotates, so it is hard to tell how close I am because you can't put any real torque on it to thread the nut on. Which would cause me some issues with a die as well. There is the cotter pin hole I can put a screw driver through.
If anyone knows any thread restoration tricks that might work, I'd Love to hear them.
- Thread starter
- #67
Thanx, just ordered one!
I had the same issue last weekend on my new LCA ball joint. The little triangular file in this kit make quick work of fixing it.
If it doesn't block too much working room, the trick I've used to get ball joints with marred threads back on was to clean both the smooth tapered ball joint shaft and the reverse taper on the knuckle with brake clean, then with some 500 grit sand paper, scuff up both surfaces. Then put them together and use a large channel locks with a friend helping (or if solo something like a wood glue clamp) to exert opposing pressure on the top of the ball joint and the underside of the knuckle.
The clean/scuffed up bolts have enough friction that you can get the nut to thread on past any minor imperfections on the ball joint bolt. I use a spare nut that matches up, and using my impact I run it on and off the offending thread a dozen times or so until it is smooths out. Then throw on the good bolt.
Might be useful in this application.
The clean/scuffed up bolts have enough friction that you can get the nut to thread on past any minor imperfections on the ball joint bolt. I use a spare nut that matches up, and using my impact I run it on and off the offending thread a dozen times or so until it is smooths out. Then throw on the good bolt.
Might be useful in this application.
- Thread starter
- #70
That's what I tried first and it ain't working as well as I hoped. So I ordered that metric thread file which looks interesting
- Thread starter
- #71
Good idea, thanx!
Gear wrench needs to come up with a socket like receiver tube that holds a die so that one doesnt need to swing the big handles of a proper die holder in places like this where there is no clearance. Their tap-socket wrench attachment has saved me on so many occasions. You hear me gearwrench!!!
the thread file should make it all better. They too are a life/time/sanity saver. I pulled out my sae one on a jobsite once to fix a stripped bolt that couldnt be replaced in place and the guy who was helping me couldnt get his jaw off the floor fast enough. He too had never seen one before. And it worked!
the thread file should make it all better. They too are a life/time/sanity saver. I pulled out my sae one on a jobsite once to fix a stripped bolt that couldnt be replaced in place and the guy who was helping me couldnt get his jaw off the floor fast enough. He too had never seen one before. And it worked!
If I replace it with a new ball joint, then I don't need to care about the thread on the old one right？
Thanks, I am fighting with my stubborn LBJ, already cost the whole yesterday night, no progress. I will try the adjust puller I just rented from Autozone this afternoon. How about removing the shock first? will this relieve some tension in the lower arm? Or try to jack from the LBJ bolt directly will do the trick?That's my theory. Worked well for me.
OK， I finally get this su*ker out, below are the tricks (probably only for the case you want to replace with new LBJ):
1. directly try the "adjustable puller 27170/57170" from Autozone and if you bought one from amazon is also good, because this probably your Life-saving straw in some cases in the future. Don't waste your time and money on something else~ The reason it will work because it is disassembled then you can insert one of the arms behind the brake rotor dust plate then found the right position.
2. If you use that adjustable puller, it is better to remove the rubber dust cover from the LBJ to give enough space for the setup
3. suggest using the little adapter that comes with the puller (hang on the chain), it will make the turn very easy
4. Extra-long handle rachet or brake bar required.
5. Be sure to do this in the morning (or after anytime you have a good rest ) and after using the toilet, I am happy I follow this, otherwise, I will not have that much of energy and probably already wet or s*** in my pants when you heard that thunderbolt from the final cracking.
Below is a pic of the position:
1. directly try the "adjustable puller 27170/57170" from Autozone and if you bought one from amazon is also good, because this probably your Life-saving straw in some cases in the future. Don't waste your time and money on something else~ The reason it will work because it is disassembled then you can insert one of the arms behind the brake rotor dust plate then found the right position.
2. If you use that adjustable puller, it is better to remove the rubber dust cover from the LBJ to give enough space for the setup
3. suggest using the little adapter that comes with the puller (hang on the chain), it will make the turn very easy
4. Extra-long handle rachet or brake bar required.
5. Be sure to do this in the morning (or after anytime you have a good rest ) and after using the toilet, I am happy I follow this, otherwise, I will not have that much of energy and probably already wet or s*** in my pants when you heard that thunderbolt from the final cracking.
Below is a pic of the position:
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