Lower Ball Joint really screwing with me (1 Viewer)

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Yes, that picture illustrates the problem perfectly. The "thumb" that is on the spindle of the BJ will walk off with pressure. That looks exactly like the tool I am using.
In that case you might want a tool with a larger opening. So the pivot point is higher. Like this:
E51B31C6-48F7-4968-AFFF-30E9DFC9A231.jpeg
 
2 jaw puller and some love taps worked on both of mine. I did have to cut 1 3/4 and 1/2 inch sections of a 2 1/8th i.d. pipe to press the new ones in. It all together sucked.

I used an oreillys ball joint rental kit to press the new ones in. Took some arm strength but they went in.

C88B72A1-0E50-4B35-A08C-89466D62D4DD.jpeg
11ADB33E-7BEC-4DCC-B694-1E59F9BEBD80.jpeg
 
best source for new lower ball joints? im fairly certain i will be installing new ones this month
 
didnt see it on the website when i looked last night. will have to call. have bearing kits to order from them too. Thanks!

edit: found it
p/n SUS43340
 
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i didnt want to say it, but....it's not efficient.
 
I believe napa makes (or markets) a nice lower ball joint but i got the 555 made in japan parts from cruiser outfitters.
 
Just went through this myself (to include the left diff seal leak after getting everything buttoned back up--so fun). I watched @OTRAMM 's video in which he pretty much just pops the BJs off with a hammer. Tried that myself--no dice. At all. After lots of core work with a 5 lb sledge on one side and a 2 lb hammer on the other. Then I tried my little crab claw ball joint tool, which is super awesome for tie rod ends but not big enough for this job.

Then I bought this kit:

Amazon product ASIN B07F34PJFX
Which has enough different pullers in it that I was able to a) destroy one by first modifying it to fit over the LBJ and then stripping the threads on it--the slightly larger version of the crab claw puller and b) find some that worked on the top and bottom ball joint (different pullers) and get the doggone things apart.

Not the most amazing quality (ref a) above), but $50 for a pretty wide range of pullers was the sweet spot for me.
 
Just went through this myself (to include the left diff seal leak after getting everything buttoned back up--so fun). I watched @OTRAMM 's video in which he pretty much just pops the BJs off with a hammer. Tried that myself--no dice. At all. After lots of core work with a 5 lb sledge on one side and a 2 lb hammer on the other. Then I tried my little crab claw ball joint tool, which is super awesome for tie rod ends but not big enough for this job.

Then I bought this kit:

Amazon product ASIN B07F34PJFX
Which has enough different pullers in it that I was able to a) destroy one by first modifying it to fit over the LBJ and then stripping the threads on it--the slightly larger version of the crab claw puller and b) find some that worked on the top and bottom ball joint (different pullers) and get the doggone things apart.

Not the most amazing quality (ref a) above), but $50 for a pretty wide range of pullers was the sweet spot for me.

Your link did not post for some reason
 
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Anyone come across a press kit that is cheapish and also works great for our trucks? I dont mind buying a kit for under 100 if it doesnt break after two presses and has the right adapters
 
you just rent the auto zone/advance big press kit. I think it's 200$+ then return it, that's their loan program in the south.
No nonsense lower joint press.
 
That probably works for you suburbanites but not up here in the sticks. No store within an hours drive even has it. Only the 100$ kit could be shipped to me. Ill be buying a kit
 
FWIW, whichever kit you rent, doesn't have the right size tube to insert the new ball joint (the eternal fight SAE vs Metric)
I ended up buying a 2" nipple in Home Depot and that was the perfect size.
 
It was posted in a link above, but I think the gold standard for separating the lower ball joints is the OEMTOOL 27170. Right now I am looking at it with much affection! :)

Pushes straight which is key. Has strap bolts that keep it from flying off and also centers it. You have to remove the disc and dust shield to get it on though.

The screw feels like it is made out of good stuff. Impact banged it and it was off.

The thing that amazed me was my ball joints were just married up to the knuckle and had less than 10 miles on them and were this hard to get BACK off.

This is a Free rental from Autozone or $69 on Amazon

414lbLo2TpL._AC_.jpg
 
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Your link did not post for some reason

Huh, it displays on my page. Just paste this into Amazon: Orion Motor Tech 5pc Ball Joint Separator, Pitman Arm Puller, Tie Rod End Tool Set for Front End Service, Splitter Removal Kit.

I bought since our local parts stores had suspended their rental program because of COVID--normally I'm all about free, for infrequent use items. Once I developed the seal leak and had to re-do one side, was pretty glad I'd bought . . .
 
It was posted in a link above, but I think the gold standard for separating the lower ball joints is the OEMTOOL 27170. Right now I am looking at it with much affection! :)

Pushes straight which is key. Has strap bolts that keep it from flying off and also centers it. You have to remove the disc and dust shield to get it on though.

The screw feels like it is made out of good stuff. Impact banged it and it was off.

The thing that amazed me was my ball joints were just married up to the knuckle and had less than 10 miles on them and were this hard to get BACK off.

414lbLo2TpL._AC_.jpg
Oh yeah, nice. That looks a lot like the Toyota Special Tool prescribed in the FSM. Which costs almost $300, IIRC, so I passed on it . . .
 
Oh yeah, nice. That looks a lot like the Toyota Special Tool prescribed in the FSM. Which costs almost $300, IIRC, so I passed on it . . .


It's $69 on Amazon or a Free Rental from Autozone. I forgot to include that. I'll add it to the post.
 

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