Low compression after engine rebuild,1987 2F. (1 Viewer)

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They also stated, that the valves should be initially looser during break-in. As I said before, I set the valves as per Haynes to IV .008". EV .012". They said its too tight for break-in.

My valves didn't change by even .001" after a valve job. I would always set the valves to factory spec, and simply check them after 100 miles, 500 miles, etc. Retorque the head while you're under the valve cover, too.
 
Here is an up-date to my low compression issue:

Its fixed...

About a month ago, during my initial star-up after my (first) re-build/reassembly/start-up, I was fighting hard starting, low compression, leak-down and overheating problems. Not what you would expect after a what was meant to be a "normal" engine rebuild.

I did everything to the engine, except re-machining the piston bores, decking and replacing the pistons, because when inspecting the bores, they were with-in specs of .0015" out-of-round, only .002" over nominal and only .001" taper. And the pistons were in good shape, too.
Not bad for a 225,000 mi engine, specially after looking at the condition of the head, which was in bad shape, as well as most of the piston rings being stuck... The piston grooves were w/i specs of less than .002". Even the head gasket looked OK...

To save money, I decided had to forgo the engine block re-boring and piston replacement, but i did everything else needing replacing and machining...

After I had all the previously mentioned problems, I planned on re-machining the block and use new pistons, since thats all that wasn't done...
I speculated, that I must have blown my dimensional checks etc, and had major blow-by around the piston rings, Could not be the head, I thought... That was rebuild...
The shop, that did the head rebuild, could not do the engine due to their back-log.. So I decided to go to a different machine shop..

I dis-assembled the engine, but left the piston # 1, cam and timing gear in the block. Took it to a machine shop in Santa Rosa and asked the shop to check it out, degree the cam and double check my dimensions of the piston bores etc.

They reported, that there was actually not much wrong with the bores, they confirmed my initial dimensions. Granted, to make it perfect, I should have re-machined and new pistons used. But it should have worked OK... But no smoking gun so far.
They asked me about the head, which I had re-build by a shop in the area to the tune of $1,500.00. (The shop was recommended to me by the previous owner, who had the car since new and had it serviced there. (I an fairly new to the area, don't know too many machine shops.)

Took the head to the new shop and they found, that the intake vales were ok, but all the exhaust valves were leaking, when checking with their Vacuum gage !!!
(3) valve were 3 on a scale of 0 to 10, (3) did not come of the zero at all...
I took the head back to the shop, that re-build it and was given an explanation, that the head takes time to "break-in". They promised to look at it and rework if necessary. Got it back after 3 days, stating there was nothing wrong with it...
Took it to the shop that was now re-machining the block and had them check it again. Guess what ? It was still bad ! Just as bad as the first time. Apparently, the valve seats were not concentric with the valve stem bores...
My machine shop re-worked the head, including re-machining of the head surface .003" again, because I had it torqued-down on my un-machine block deck surface.
Got everything on the block machined, including hot-tanking the block, decking and R/R the cam bearings. Used new pistons and had the con. rods re-machined per advise of the shop. Also had the crank and fly-wheel etc balanced. Didn't want to leave anything out..

Got everything back more than a week ago and re-assembled it. Put the engine back into the car. Started up the engine and after putting a few squirts of gas into the carb, it started fired on the first crank... Got it primed, adjusted the timing and idle and now the engine run smooth as can be...

So, the bad head rebuild was my problem. Never would have expected that from a shop, that does nothing but that kind of work. Twice !
If I would have re-installed the "checked-out" head and not double checked it by a 2nd shop, I would still have the same problem !
Lesson learned.

So, engine running smooth, but still over-heating, which I believe is caused by a bad fan clutch. Have it apart right now, will replace the silicon fluid tomorrow and re-install.

Cant wait to get it smogged and drive the thing...
 
don't forget to burp the cooling system and don't forget to retorque that head several times...heads don't need a break in; but the valves wear during use and will always require adjusments on a schedule...you should send the other shop a bill.
 
I cant believe they charged $1500. My local shop just did a 1fzfe which is twice the valve job for $500, I think. I will have to ask @socallove
 
I am with Lambcrusher... definitely talk to the other shop about getting some of your money back because I am sure the 2nd shop didn't do the work for free, nor did the first shop "cut you a deal" because they had been working on the truck for years. Be sure to burp your system and get coolant going through everything. Was the WaterPump replaced during the rebuild? If not, that is probably where I would start along with a NEW fan clutch (which are like $70 if I remember correctly AISIN FCT-017).

Glad that she is up and running... once you get her tuned and everything grab a video of it starting up and running. Would love to see and hear it.
 
After I get the fan clutch re-filled with 5000 or 6000 wheight silicon oil and tried, it should be OK. ( after the engine is hot, the fan spins freely...) I did put a new coolant pump in.
The shop owner told me, he would reimburse me for the addn. head work of $195 plus 70 to dust the head surface.
It needed to be machined again, since I had it torqued-up to the old, un-decked block. Since the 2nd time araound, we machined the block, the head needed to be done again...

I will do a video...
 
I'm with gregnash...spend the $70 @ Rock Auto and purchase a new AISIN fan clutch. 30 min later and you're done.

Adding new silicon sometimes is a good solution and sometimes not. You've already got enough time and effort into this. New and your finished.

John
 
The resolution of this thread is an eye opener. If there's anything that we can learn from it is that a leak down test would have identified leaking valves. But $1200 for an overhauled head is on the outrageous side of rape, and anyone of us would expect the rebuilt head to be perfect for that price.

What I learned is: Assume nothing.
 
Exactly.... my sticking point is the OP spent $1500+ to have the head rebuilt then goes through the process of getting the block decked but wont spend $70 for a new Fan Clutch...
 
Exactly.... my sticking point is the OP spent $1500+ to have the head rebuilt then goes through the process of getting the block decked but wont spend $70 for a new Fan Clutch...

First of all, I was not expecting to pay 1,500 for a head rebuild. More like 750.00. Got the invoice after the fact, did not get an estimate before.
2nd, Rebuilding the clutch was a matter of time, not about saving money.. 1 day, versus 1 week plus to wait for delivery.
Also, I always wanted to see the inside of a fluid clutch and understand, how it works...
 
Fxxxing cons! I just bought a whole bj60 3B 5 speed for 1500 bucks. Time to go diesel, well maybe once this engine gets tired.
 
First of all, I was not expecting to pay 1,500 for a head rebuild. More like 750.00. Got the invoice after the fact, did not get an estimate before.
2nd, Rebuilding the clutch was a matter of time, not about saving money.. 1 day, versus 1 week plus to wait for delivery.
Also, I always wanted to see the inside of a fluid clutch and understand, how it works...

No offense meant dude. Just found it strange, regardless of prior knowledge of the bill, that you were willing to fork out the money and then waiver on spending $70ish for a new fan clutch regardless of wanting to see the inside. And waiting a week? I got mine from Amazon Prime in two days.

I guess another curious question that people are wondering, and I will take the shot on asking, is what all did they do for $1500 to your head? I had mine redone in January of this year, decked both surfaces, cleaned up valves, replaced one valve seat, replaced all valve guides with OEM that I provided, replaced studs with OEM that I provided and even had my manifolds surface done, and that was less than $200 after it being hot tanked and magnafluxed to ensure it was still good.
 
Drove the car to the gas station to fill the gas tank. Now I have another problem: Will not go into 2nd gear while driving. Shifts OK, when stationary.
Will start a different thread for that...
 
Drove the car to the gas station to fill the gas tank. Now I have another problem: Will not go into 2nd gear while driving. Shifts OK, when stationary.
Will start a different thread for that...

I have a couple of used 4 speeds sitting my garage. Hit me up.
 
No offense meant dude. Just found it strange, regardless of prior knowledge of the bill, that you were willing to fork out the money and then waiver on spending $70ish for a new fan clutch regardless of wanting to see the inside. And waiting a week? I got mine from Amazon Prime in two days.

I guess another curious question that people are wondering, and I will take the shot on asking, is what all did they do for $1500 to your head? I had mine redone in January of this year, decked both surfaces, cleaned up valves, replaced one valve seat, replaced all valve guides with OEM that I provided, replaced studs with OEM that I provided and even had my manifolds surface done, and that was less than $200 after it being hot tanked and magnafluxed to ensure it was still good.



Well, stop beating me up for not buying a new fan clutch... Based on my judgement, I have my overheating problem solved in less than 24 hours...

What is the typical shop rate in your area ?

I usually make sound decisions when it comes to buying new or rebuilding, as well as choosing machining /rebuilding shops. Mostly, its driven by the need to retain originality, since I restore cars as a hobby...
I purchase most of my after market stuff at Rock or on Amazon, unless they have to be OEM parts. Sometimes I go OEM NOS (New old stock), in which case, time is not the driver. (I do not have Amazon Prime)

In the case of the fan clutch, it was originality first, time 2nd and cost 3rd.
My other cars ('72 Datsun 240 Z, '82 Mercedes 300CD , '76 Toyota Celica Liftback and '67 Porsche 912-all mint, low mileage cars).
The Land Cruiser is the first and last high mileage, non-running car I will buy...) I also get parts from other sources, too (Pelican Parts, Stoddard, Sierra Madre for Porsche and Mercedes)
Most of the orders from Rock take at least 1 week to get to Santa Rosa, Ca. Amazon w/o Prime shipping is not much better.
The fastest shipping I get regularly from Pelican or Sierra Madre for my Porsche or Mercedes parts. The Japanese car parts are generally from Rock, Partsgeek. Or OEM parts, when available.
Rock some times ships from 2 or more different warehouses. If I need the parts fast, I pay for 2nd day delivery, mostly an additional $25 or so, depending on weight.

As to the extreme head rebuild cost, I admit I screwed-up. Did not do my Due Diligence. I do not know too many local machine shops, since I am fairly new in the area, having moved here from Michigan 5 years ago. I knew every good, specialty shop there... The shops I do know had a long leed time of 2 months or more...

I chose the shop to rebuild my head, because it was recommended to me by the previous owner, who was the original owner. And also, because this shop does NOTHING but Land cruisers, and for more than 30 years.. Who better knows Land Cruiser heads, I thought.
Sure, I was shocked when I got the bill. He said the head needed a lot of work, new seats, re-machining and bushing of Valve stem bores and of course, new valves.
All other parts were re-used (springs etc) He invoiced me for 10 hours labor at 140/hour plus parts.
$140/hour labor rate is not un common in my area. Less than 100/hour is unheard of. Dealers charge 160 to 180/hour.
In the future I will get an estimate, as I did from the machine shop, that did the engine block work, as well as the cam shaft, crank shaft machine shops. I guess i was too trusting with the head shop... Lesson learned...
 
One came out out of my 60 for a 5-speed swap. It worked just fine. The other came from a part out, rusty body from bring parked near the beach, but lots of maintenance receipts. It was a daily driver until the owner gave up on the rust. You should swap in a 5 speed. Huge improvement in freeway rpm's and everything will be new.
 

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