Lost all power during Dakota Digital Dash Install (1 Viewer)

[CaliFJ]

Everything was working great until after I started the install. Have no power anywhere in the vehicle. I checked the fuse panel and all are fine. Is there another fuse for the ignition switch somewhere else I can't see? Is it possible I fried the ignition coil while connecting the wire to the negative post that is used for the Dakota Tachometer? Stumped!

 

[Poser]

Ground?


What did you do with the ammeter wires?

 

[UZJ40]

And you checked to make sure your battery did not drain?

 

[CaliFJ]

Yes, battery is fine. I did connect a 14 awg wire to the negative terminal on the igniter coil. Have not touched the ground.

 

[bj40green]

The ammeter is in series with everything, so if you disconnected the wires from the ammeter, your truck is dead.
Solution: connect both wires with each other and tape them.

Hth,

Rudi

 

[CaliFJ]

The ammeter is in series with everything, so if you disconnected the wires from the ammeter, your truck is dead.
Solution: connect both wires with each other and tape them.

Hth,

Rudi

So I have 12.45v at the starter when I move the ignition switch to ACC and On, but still no power to accessories, lights, etc and it won't start. Not even a click. Did I fry the Ignition Coil?

 

[Tools R Us]

Did you connect the ammeter wires together? IIRC, fat wires, white to white/blue.

 

[CaliFJ]

Did you connect the ammeter wires together? IIRC, fat wires, white to white/blue.

No, I haven't done that. There is one blue w/red stripe and 3 black with red stripe, btw. I can't figure out why I have 12.45v at the starter even when the ignition switch is off.

 

[bikersmurf]

There is usually a big fat wire connected to the solenoid on the starter from the + side of the battery. When the power that goes through the fuseable link, then the ammeter, ignition switch, etc., is connected to the smaller terminal it cranks the engine over.

 

[CaliFJ]

Trouble is, I have no power anywhere in the vehicle (accept my LED light bar which is not connected to the ignition system. Nothing turns on. Battery is sitting at 12.45v, and I never touched the ground.

 

[bikersmurf]

ALL power goes through stock ammeter (other than heavy lead to the starter).

Remove it and all is dead. If connecting the two wires doesn't help, the fuseable link by the battery is most likely fried. That happens if the ammeter is shorted to the body when removing the cluster.

 

[TXFJ40]

Same thing when I put my new guages in... Check what everyone is saying about the ammeter wires. Bolted/ taped them together and all was good again!

 

[CaliFJ]

Bingo. Got power. Sorry for being such an electrical idiot. Fuseable link is fine. It was connecting the ammeter wire to the temp wire as @Tools R Us noted. Thanks to you all for helping.

 

[ginmtb]

Have faith in the people here - they will steer you the right way!

 

[bikersmurf]

Or certainly try...


Don't feel bad, I made most of the same mistakes... I just had to figure it all out on my own, and there were no witnesses... mind you no help. Given the choice, I'm glad to have the help. It makes me feel old when I realize I've been wrenching on my 40 for 25 years. Longer than some muders have been alive...

 

[crashn]

CALIFJ, What do you think of the new Dakota set up? Can you dim the lighting down and how bright are they?

 

[CaliFJ]

CALIFJ, What do you think of the new Dakota set up? Can you dim the lighting down and how bright are they?

I will let you know when I get it working. Have everything wired up except the oil pressure sensor. The thread size on the sensor (fits just below my oil filter) is slightly larger than the stock sensor on my 2F. I called their tech support and they are mailing me a fitting. Anyone looking to buy this unit for their 2F, make sure you contact them so they add that fitting to your order.

@crashn - Dakota sells a knob for dimming. Does not come as part of the VHX kit. I am going to see how bright it is before buying the switch.

On a good note, I have been meaning to do an inspection of my fuel tank. Running new wires to the sender forced me to remove the seat and tank cover. Good news is that my fuel tank isn't a rust bucket like everything else.

 

[Living in the Past]

Or certainly try...


Don't feel bad, I made most of the same mistakes... I just had to figure it all out on my own, and there were no witnesses... mind you no help. Given the choice, I'm glad to have the help. It makes me feel old when I realize I've been wrenching on my 40 for 25 years. Longer than some muders have been alive...

I've had my first FJ40 for over forty-two years. Couldn't afford a FSM back then and Hanyes manuals weren't even around yet. Trial and error was the rule then. Hope this makes you feel younger. I know it makes me feel older.

 

[bikersmurf]

I've had my first FJ40 for over forty-two years. Couldn't afford a FSM back then and Hanyes manuals weren't even around yet. Trial and error was the rule then. Hope this makes you feel younger. I know it makes me feel older.

Doesn't make me feel younger... Still feel old most days. You've had yours since I was born

But I know about trial and error. My disc conversion involved taking apart a disc axle and my drum axle... Crossing my fingers and mixing and matching parts. After driving I learned there's a proportioning valve to keep the rear brakes from locking. That was why the rear brakes always locked up instantly when braking.

Also got lucky with the frame swap.

Next I needed an adjustable proportioning valve when the 45 rear brakes kept locking. I bought the 45 for parts, and crossed my fingers again. The FF axle did bolt in... Just needed newer style shocks.

And the list goes on with hard tops, doors, soft tops, half doors, transmissions. Even manuals don't help with mix and match mods... Mud sure does though.

 

[UZJ40]

I will let you know when I get it working. Have everything wired up except the oil pressure sensor. The thread size on the sensor (fits just below my oil filter) is slightly larger than the stock sensor on my 2F. I called their tech support and they are mailing me a fitting. Anyone looking to buy this unit for their 2F, make sure you contact them so they add that fitting to your order.

@crashn - Dakota sells a knob for dimming. Does not come as part of the VHX kit. I am going to see how bright it is before buying the switch.

On a good note, I have been meaning to do an inspection of my fuel tank. Running new wires to the sender forced me to remove the seat and tank cover. Good news is that my fuel tank isn't a rust bucket like everything else.

You can adjust the brightness through the menus, you don't need a knob. There is a setting for lights on and lights off. My backlight is completely off when my lights are off.