Looking for recommendations on Suspension setup that won't beat us up.

[bloc]

I don't dismiss Ben's knowledge, but his prerogative is to help customers focus on decisions that help make a sale.

Let's try this another way. I think you would agree added air pressure in tires are going to change the effective spring rate of the tire sidewall and forces translated into the chassis in a way that effects ride quality. Even with your king shocks, there will be a noticeable ride difference on account of that the compliance shortcoming.

Just as the spring rate of the suspension is fundamental to ride quality and will have effects.

The shock is equally important to manage and control the ride. But cannot improve on compliance that is not there.

Different faces of the same coin.

But, the springs we can actually install and not be riding the extension stops aren’t so much higher rate that they will ride significantly different. 20% less travel for a given force, in the case of a 600# front. For a mild build the 700#+ options will be far too much lift. If you have the weight to justify the 700s it balances out.

Compared to an adjustable shock that can be taken from “cloud” to “riding bump stop” with the twist of a knob.

I agree super high rate springs will bring in undesirable traits, unlike what OP asked for, but simply put I don’t think that is a risk with the options that are available given their other considerations.

With regard to compliance, in certain contexts yes it absolutely matters! If a 550# spring were available I’d be able to use slightly more travel in the front end for low-speed technical driving. With how light my setup is I can’t quite hit the bump stops when twisting it up. Filthy tried to find a 550 for me but couldn’t. A 500 would allow that travel, but require more preload than is ideal to hit the ride height that works with my rears. Thing is, compliance in this context has little to do with the noticeable effects when driving..

 

[bloc]

Just occurred to me I should maybe provide an actual solution..

OE strut spacers plus OME 2720 rears would be a good setup. A bit more height than stock up front, but stock spring rate and damping, and stiffer springs in the rear that allow more load carrying capability without sag, but a stock weight rig can still push it to the limits of travel when needing the articulation.

 

[duggy]

We do a ton of these builds and I have driven a lot of 200s with different suspension. My top choice for OEM ride quality while eliminating the nose dive when braking is BP51s or Kings. Any suspension that you install will need to be setup properly with the correct preload in the front coilovers and selection of rear springs. All of this plays a major factor in how the vehicle drives afterwards. Think about how you will use your vehicle, what modifications you'll add in the future, and plan your suspension build around that.

 

[sn00bee]

An

I have the Westcott lift on the stock suspension. I know you have some other springs there but on a stock car. Id say it still feels stock after the installation which is the ride I prefer as well

Any pics with your lift and wheel/tire setup?

 

[Propernice]

An

Any pics with your lift and wheel/tire setup?

 

[HROD79]

View attachment 2887624

How much Lift did you actually see from this lift? front and rear?

 

[Propernice]

How much Lift did you actually see from this lift? front and rear?

I wish I measured.

 

[LCTX]

I wish I measured.

Your rig looks great!

Any chance you could get us some measurements from center of hubs to fender lips?

Also, what size tires are you running?

 

[Giusto]

I’ve been driving on the Bilstein 6112/5160 combo for 13 months. It’s a slightly stiffer ride than stock on paved roads - much better cornering. On fire roads, the ride is very smooth and controlled. It took the swampiness out of the rear end with a moderate amount of gear in the back. My current tire choice is adding to the stiffness.

I have just under 2” of lift in the rear. And the fronts are adjustable. I’m still dialing that in to balance the tongue weight of a light trailer. Currently, its’ sitting about 1.75” above stock.

 

[montegofd3s]

I would suggest the FCPs or equivalent like the tough dogs. I ran the FCPs before my current BP51s and will probably be going back. They rode really well both on and off road. The BP51s are a pain in the ass as I can never find a happy medium and find myself constantly fiddling with the adjustments to get comfortable.

 

[Tex68w]

I would suggest the FCPs or equivalent like the tough dogs. I ran the FCPs before my current BP51s and will probably be going back. They rode really well both on and off road. The BP51s are a pain in the ass as I can never find a happy medium and find myself constantly fiddling with the adjustments to get comfortable.

I really enjoyed the FCP’s as well.

 

[HROD79]

Decided on Westcott design in the front, keep the current ride characteristics and because we load down with family or gear and sometimes tow, I decided on a set of icon 1.75" variable rate springs for the height and will probably rebuild and re-valve the Icon 2.5" shocks I currently have in the rear. This will do for now, maybe get me 40-50k miles down the road until I'm ready to invest more. Thanks for the input. Now to decide on replacement tires. I have been trying to consider tires that get me size I want (33-34") but don't necessarily want to stay with E load tires. I run a 265-70-18 on my wife's GX460 which is offered in a P-tire and they ride great. (32.6") but I really wan either the 275-70-18 (33.2") or 295-70-18 (34.3") I have seen Westcott Design advertise will fit. I feel like the smaller is a good size tire but on such a big truck they would look tiny. Plus I am not a fan of the "Pizza cutter look"

 

[Tex68w]

I run 275/70/18's in a E-Rated and I have no issues with the ride, it's all about finding the proper air pressure.

 

[bloc]

or 295-70-18 (34.3") I have seen Westcott Design advertise will fit.

Do some digging into whether 295/70R18 will clear KDSS arm and swaybar before investing in them. Not saying it won’t, but 285/75r17 often has issues and is both narrower and much smaller diameter.

 

[Gr8Daneger]

I’m really curious about how this will turn out. I would love nothing more than to clear 295/70/18 Michelin Defenders and keep as close to OE ride as possible.

 

[scott johnson]

I went with the Iron Man 2" and added the forged UCA'S later. Does what I need and was very economical. Mild wheeling and lots of camping and towing. No issues. Lift was like $800 and I grabbed the UCA'S when they had 25% off and free shipping.

 

[njbrain]

I had Foam Cell Pro for a while and did not enjoy it. I found the ride quite harsh. I switched it out today for Dobinsons MRA.

 

[njbrain]

I would suggest the FCPs or equivalent like the tough dogs. I ran the FCPs before my current BP51s and will probably be going back. They rode really well both on and off road. The BP51s are a pain in the ass as I can never find a happy medium and find myself constantly fiddling with the adjustments to get comfortable.

Do some digging into whether 295/70R18 will clear KDSS arm and swaybar before investing in them. Not saying it won’t, but 285/75r17 often has issues and is both narrower and much smaller diameter.

I'm running a 295/7018 and have minor rubbing on the KDSS bar with a +18mm offset wheel

 

[Tex68w]

I went with the Iron Man 2" and added the forged UCA'S later. Does what I need and was very economical. Mild wheeling and lots of camping and towing. No issues. Lift was like $800 and I grabbed the UCA'S when they had 25% off and free shipping.

Which forged UCA's?

 

[scott johnson]

Which forged UCA's?

Iron Man. If you click on the 200 build in my signature it will take you to that thread. There are a bunch of pics of the suspension and build. UCA'S are toward the end.